Nilfisken
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Everything posted by Nilfisken
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Joining the discussion a bit late but here is my experience of fitting on to a 1500. When doing a long run across Europe during a hot summer I noticed a clear reduction in engine temperature compared to driving in similar hot conditions before fitting. The main effect I found was that it massively helped to quickly reduce oil and water temperature (I had meters for both installed) after repeated standstills at Autobahn, as soon as it started to move temperature dropped much quicker than I was used to seeing. I do think though that it overcooled in winter, as far as I have been told even the thermostatic cooler have a small bypass when the thermostat is in the closed position so it took a long time to get the temperature up. I was thinking about making a metal cover for the cooler to put on during winter, but then I tore the car to pieces, failed to finish the restoration and sold the project so no idea if that would have worked or not :-/ Cheers, Oskar
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Worth checking one more thing. I had roughly the same problems and it was actually caused by a horribly worn U-joint in the propshaft. Easier to fix than to rip out the gearbox! Just crawl under and see if there is any play in the joint while turning the shaft by hand (box in neutral, handbrakes on). There will of course be play in the diff making it hard to identify if you can t hold the short part of the propshaft steady, but if it's as bad as mine was its easy to identify what area is the culprit. Cherers!
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Thanks, just as I expected but always best to check with the joint experience of the forum :)
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Hi, I'm currently selling of parts of my car on ebay (dont worry, this is no advertisement) and listed my set of adjustable spax dampers (bought from Moss for a 1500 Spit) as suitable for all models of Spitfire, Herald, Vitesse and GT6 except that the rear don't fit models with rotaflex. A potential buyer contacted me asking for the codes stamped on the shocks and then got back to me saying they wont fit a Vitesse (he asked about the front shocks). Have I gotten this wrong or not, I thought they were the same if the car is non rotaflex and always the same for all front shocks. All companies selling basic parts for triumphs I could find online lists the same number for front shocks so I'm wondering wether the person asking me got back with the wrong info? Cheers!
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Looking forward to hear some good news later tonight then :)
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Time for an update, today I finally took the sump of to inspect the thrust washers. They look frickin horrible on the soft bearing side, but I cant see or feel any damage to the end of the crankshaft that has been riding against this mess so I think the crank is OK. Now I need to decide what size of thrust washers to order, I cant find my micrometer at the moment but as soon as that is done I will measure them and go for a total of 0.005 over size but does anyone here know what the standard size is? My old ones have no markings saying wether they are standard or oversized so I'm not sure how to know what type to get without that measurement. Cheers!
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Time for an update, today I finally took the sump of to inspect the thrust washers. They look frickin horrible on the soft bearing side, but I cant see or feel any damage to the end of the crankshaft that has been riding against this mess so I think the crank is OK. Now I need to decide what size of thrust washers to order, I cant find my micrometer at the moment but as soon as that is done I will measure them and go for a total of 0.005 over size but does anyone here know what the standard size is? My old ones have no markings saying wether they are standard or oversized so I'm not sure how to know what type to get without that measurement. Cheers!
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I had similar problems when I changed gearbox last year, turns out the slave was a little bit to far back so it did not engage the clutch fork before the very end of the pedal stroke. See if you can force the slave a bit closer to the flywheel? The cut out in the slave is a bit wider than the bolt that clamps it so there is some room for adjustments! Cheers
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Just what I want to hear as I'm also putting adjustable shocks on! Let me know if you need to borrow a local spring compressor :)
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Hi, one thing that might work if you cant here a click (but you most likely should) is to just leave the car with ignition in on position and overdrive engaged (the switch) in 3th or 4th. Then leave the car for about five minutes and after that touch the solenoid with your hand from underneath the car. If it is getting power and engages it will be quite warm after a few minutes. Cheers!
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I agree with Nick that changing both is the way to go. When you rebuild one of them with new seals it will hold even more pressure putting more strain on the old components in the system so the unchanged parts start leaking quickly. Happened to me when I changed my slave cylinder for a new one...
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I just had local hardware store cut a steel tube of the right diameter up in proper length pieces, not on the car yet but looks to do the job.
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I remember the difference when I did my carbs, engine all of a sudden worked and consumption dropped to half of before! :)
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For the electrics do keep a BIG roll of masking tape and label up every single connection you take off by using a permanent marker on the tape tags. It does help immensely when reconnecting months (or years) later!
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Thanks! One manufacturer makes life easier sometimes :)
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I would definitely go with a new master cylinder just for peace of mind. Given how long the car must have been standing you really want to replace all the brake fluid anyway so don't try and keep it in the old pipes. Might even be worth getting a brand new set of brake pipes, they are not expensive and if there are two places on the car you shouldn't skip on I would say it's the brakes and the steering. Good luck!
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Hi, I think I will have to get a new set of black moulded carpets for my 1500 since the old non moulded ones are both worn and never fitted very well. What producer/supplier have you guys experience from? I have heard a lot of good about the Newton Commercial but not much else. I'm not looking for something 100% original, nice thick carpets with good fit is more important than the exact stock reproduction approach. Also, what do you suggest to use to glue it down? I would prefer something that's not too permanent since I like the idea of having a look under the carpets a few times a year to make sure any nasty rust have started to chew away at the floors and also good to easily take the carpets out if the interior gets wet, it is a British hood after all ;) Cheers!
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OK, so if this is original old stock bushings I'm better of just fitting them as they are but maybe put a drop of oil on them to ease the fitting process?
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Hi, am I right that new bronze bushings for brake and clutch pedal should be soaked in oil before assembly? If so for how long and what kind of oil? Cheers!
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I am pretty sure they were changed along the production run. Earlier tanks were fed from below while later had the exit at the top. Also possibly some differences for US cars due to emission rules.
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Thanks!
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Gonna have a look at the machine shop at work tomorrow and see if they have any NPTF taps lying around :) Would a straight tap with a tapered dryseal plug (original gearbox drain plug) and some thread sealer be tight enough?
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But will the angle of the drill make any difference if using a tapered plug? I assumed that one would start sealing up due to the taper well before the bolt head touches the surface of the diff/gearbox?
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Hmm, forgot to mention the drain plug. I haven't bother to fit one since I don't have the right tap but maybe its better to bite the bullet and get one and do it properly. Is 5/8 x 18 UNF the right thread size for using a standard drain plug? It's the plug that is tapered, not the hole, right? What is the best drill diameter for the hole to be tapped? Does anyone have a picture of the correct drain plug position so I get it right? Diff is still off the car so can't check the angle easily myself. Cheers, Oskar
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Hi, quick question. Are there any differences between the oil sumps used on the different spitfire engines? I am looking at buying a used baffled sump and not sure wether the clearance for the crank is different between different engines? I have had quite a few episodes of almost complete loss of oil pressure when breaking HARD so a baffle seems quite a good investment for peace of mind. Cheers!