Nilfisken
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Everything posted by Nilfisken
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Found some Lookhead Rubber Grease in my landlords garage so now it's all finished except torquing up the caliper bolts. Piston greased up and ready to go into the bore Pushed in a bit by hand And then with some wood to even out the pressure Finished! Except the final torque of the bolts holding it all together.
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Some pictures of the progress :) Calipers split, came apart easy and the bolts looked good. Messy bores filled with dirty brake-fluid. Pistons came out using compressed air and a bit of hammer and chisel. Calipers masked after having been cleaned out using a rotating brush from brass wire on a Dremel. Some pitting in the bores but in general fairly good condition and the groove for the seal cleaned up very well. The internal channels were cleaned using the type of pipe cleaners that are used for tobacco pipes and a lot of brake-fluid followed by even more compressed air. Time to paint! Prior to painting and masking the caliper halves were all cleaned up using liberal amount of brake cleaner followed by a blast of compressed air Last look of the original cast iron... Now covered in Eastwood Brake Gray, were easy to apply and hopefully good lasting quality! All left now is to install the new seals and pistons, unfortunately I was asleep this morning when the delivery of brake grease arrived asking for a signature and now I wont be able to get my hand on it before Monday :(
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I wil report back with pictures :)
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I'm thinking about using a small rotating brush on a dremel, worried scraping might damage anything?
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After a bit of reading I think honing might be unnecessary since the sealing surface is the piston itself meaning the bore surface should not be the critical point. I probably just use some very fine sandpaper instead to remove some light corrosion and make sure to get the groove where the seal goes extra clean to ensure a good tight seal against the pistons.
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OK, calipers are now split, bolts looked in perfect shape so should be reused. Have anyone here tried to use a drill driven honing tool to clean up the bore in the calipers? Example of toll I'm referring to: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-Brake-Cylinder-Hone-Small-Bore-Honing-25mm-57mm-56244-/140758623342?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item20c5de246e#ht_500wt_1180
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Just ordered the seals, bolts are not available but seals cost a pound each and has the part number cs1. Cheers!
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I had really hoped to avoid splitting the calipers, I thought the bolts holding the two sides together were rather special and not reusable and I cant find a source for either the bolts or new inner seals. Also all manuals I have access too specifically point out NOT to split them. I have just finished wire brushing the calipers (mostly removing brake dust actually, no old paint and only a few rust specks) and apart from a bit of crud at the very bottom of the calipers the bores look to be in very good shape. Any more opinions on splitting or not? If so, were do I get the new hardware to get them back properly? Cheers!
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Hi, just started a rebuild of a pair of used calipers acquired via eBay. Today I removed the pistons with some compressed air and they all got out fairly easy. The brake fluid looked pretty sad but the bores appear to be in good condition. The pistons had only minimal corrosion on the part that is in contact with the piston bore but will be replaced anyway. I'm planning to polish up the bore with some emery cloth, repaint the calipers with Eastwood Brake Gray and then install a set of stainless pistons and a new set of seals and dust caps. What is the best way to ensure the interior of the calipers is clean, would it be sufficient to blast them out with compressed air? It is not to tricky to get sludges out of the piston bores itself but since I don't plan to separate the caliper halves I need to find a good way of cleaning the channels inside. Pictures will follow as the rebuild goes along. Any hints and suggestion very welcome! Cheers, Oskar
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Bleeding instructions
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Hi, never tried working on a dual system myself but here is a diagram from the factory manual for a 1978 Spit. This shows the US version, but some mirror imaging should probably do the trick. Next reply (Not enough attachment space) is the instructions for bleeding a dual system if you need them later! Pictures could be better but only had my phone around at the moment... Cheers!
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I hope it sounds good with four cylinders as well, bought the same exhaust to fit to my Spit
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Looking good! But you do need to mount your exhaust a tad bit higher...
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How about some more pictures
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Hi, hearing about all the issues of clutch bleeding (and knowing I'm gonna have to do that soon myself ) I remember seeing somewhere on the net a suggestion of instead of using a normal circuit, construct a piece of hydraulic piping (same kind of pipe as the normal MC to slave pipe) from the place where the bleed nipple is normally positioned, route that one out to the engine bay and end in a fitting suitable for the bleed nipple. In that way you should be able to bleed the clutch as easy as you bleed the brakes straight from the engine bay which is much much easier to reach than the slave cylinder itself, right? Do you think that would work? Cheers!
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Nice compilation, hopefully it will lead to a few less vertical links having to live with grease in them :)
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Hi, following the forum the last month I became inspired/scared by all the trunnion-snap discussions so I ended up doing a complete front suspension rebuild. When looking around for good ways to oil the trunnions I found this little gem cheap at Halfords. Think i paid 5 pounds! With freshly restored trunnions it had no problems of building up enough pressure to get the oil flowing out at the right places, not sure how it would stand up to trunnions with a bit more dirt or grease in them? The tip is some sort of semi-hard plastic and if pushed hard against the vertical link grease opening it seals pretty good. Cheers, Oskar