roddymacp
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Gas ram from a modern?
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No need to remove the tunnel. Fold back the carpets. (Maybe a little cut behind the H frame). Carefully cut a hole in the side of the tunnel. Adjust the hole size to give sufficient room to work in. Cover the hole with a plate of aluminium fixed with self tappers.
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Eagerbeaver wrote:Just looking to get a couple of new bonnet handles for my GT6. Has anyone had experience of those on EBay for £40? They look well priced but is the quality good? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BONNET-CATCH-FITTINGS-SPITFIRE-GT6-HERALD-KIT-CARS-/261079152386?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc987b702#ht_989wt_754 That's £40 per catch, not for a pair.
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Mine has a connection below the front of the seats and two hangers on the cross silencer. Easy enough to shift and pull out from the rear as you say.
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I too had this lw biting point and free pedal travel. When I discnnected the pedal from the master ylinder, I saw that there was free movement in the cylinder push rod. Turned out that the spring in the ylinder was broken, so on releasing the pedal, the piston did not return fully to the end of the cylinder. Therefore I only had 3/4 of the master cylinder activation. A new spring from an old cylinder fixed it and brought all movements and biting point back to normal. Check that spring. It's a lot easier than a slave mod.
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2825 wrote:Paul, I've had the master cylinder to bits and replaced the seals. There doesn't appear to be any problem with the pedal eye connection. Could you explain more about the release lever pivot pin, as I'm not sure what that is? A more accurate explanation of the problem - when in gear and with the clutch (pedal) fully depressed, the car is still creeps forward. In other words the clutcxh is not fully disengaged. That's exactly what I had with the broken M/C spring.
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I had a lot of pedal free play even after replacing all the seals and bleeding several times. Check the piston movement in the master cylinder, by disconnecting the pedal. I found free play there and it turned out to be a broken spring inside the master cylinder. The piston wasn't fully returning when the pedal was released so didn't shift enough fluid to operate the slave properly.
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Service the one with a stuck stud. Eventually change it for the one on the car. Service the one from the car, and have a good spare for use or for sale.
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I'm in Sunderland, just down the road from you. If you want a look at my 1500 and maybe take a template just send me a PM. I'm no welder or tin basher, but measurements might help you.
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I'm sure the scrapman is right. It's such a devil to get to the slave for bleeding that it makes sense to do the master at the same time. Have been thinking of this all day as I could have the kit on Saturday and do the job properly. Have also been wodering about cutting a panel in the gearbox tunnel so that the system could be bled without the rigmarole of stripping everything out.
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The pressure system seems to have worked. After joining it all up, I ran nearly half a litre through the cylinders and now have a full pedalwhich seems to be holding up. I'm doing no more tonight, so will check it tomorrow and try the clutch with the engine running. If it's OK, it will certainly be a case of an unmovable airlock by pedal pressure alone. Thanks for the addvice and moral support guys.
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Bleed nipple is in the top hole. Will have another go soon with the pressure kit. That is a good tip on the link. It's too many years since I ever bled brakes, but the guy in the motor shop said he remembers clutches being the very devil as air pockets gather that are too big for a single stroke of the pedal to shift.
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Slave cylinder is not wet now. Bore of slave looked good and felt good with little finger. Seals correct way round and supplied by Rimmers. I am just off to Halfords for a pressure bleeding kit, as I feel it might get rid of the chance of either leaving or sucking air back in. Bigger reservoir too which should help.
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I wonder if anyone can help me. Today, I have put a repair kit into the clutch slave cylinder. (Spitfire 1500) I had been only having an effective clutch right at the bottom of the pedal, with a lot of loose play in the top two thirds of travel. Bleeding it single handed is not easy, but I have a tube that is supposed to stop air re-entering on the upstroke so have been trying myself. I have now got a jam jar almost full of fluid and well above the magic split in the tube. Fill the reservoir, 6 or 7 pumps, tighten everything up, and I have a full pedal. with everything tight and the reservoir refilled I only get about half a dozen pumps before I am back to square one with most of the pedal travel doing nothing. I have tried several times to release the nipple, press the pedal, tighten nipple release pedal, and repeat, but the end product is the same. Have I done something wrong, am I doing something wrong, or could the problem be in the master cylinder? The slave area was very wet with fluid when I took it all apart, and any drips have been from this area rather than the side where the master is located. Pipe looks in good order as well.