markcro
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Everything posted by markcro
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What do you use for fixings for the interior soft panels? i.e. the rear side interior panels on the GT6? Do you use self tapping screws or is there a more factory looking way of doing it?
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My final update on this tedious story..... The new master cylinder has been sent back to be exchanged, unfortunately they only stock TRW ones, so I'll see what the replacement is like. But in the meantime she is perfect on the rebuilt original one and I have driven over 100 miles in her since Friday!! 8) She has covered more distance in the last 48 hours than in the last 12 months! Just got her undersealed and cavity wax injected too. :-)
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I got mine rebuilt and fitted with electronic ignition by the TSSC. It looks brand new! 8)
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Still I do not understand the red herring of the drivers side caliper?? So looks like I didn't need to buy a brand new one even though it did make a difference. The pistions look to be the same diammeter as the original, but maybe the caliper has less capacity? Strange...
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Thanks Guys, I am so p1ssed off with this whole affair as I have wasted the whole summer chasing my tail on this. Time and money wasted while the car sat unused. :B I must gave put about 60 quids worth of brake fluid through the system at this point! ??) And I mad resprayed the bulkhead before fitting the brand new one, and all this messing about has chipped and removed bits of paint. I actually used a more shoddy quick way of bleeding than before, as I was on my own and didn't have any faith in it working. But it did! 8) (the other times I painstakingly did the two man bleed, with and without bleed kits, one man bleeds, etc. but to no avail.) And yes this brand new master cylinder is a TRW one. :-0 Are there any brands of new ones that are recommended? I would leave the old rebuilt one in except there is wear and a bit of corrosion on the metal piston thing in it. And when I was fitting the end dust seal over the fork thing it split. So I am worried about fluid seeping out and ruining my paintwork even worse. (How are you meant to get that dust seal over the end of the rod fork?) It was glorious driving her yesterday, made me even more fed up that this wasted my whole summer of driving!
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Eur-fu<king-reeka!! This morning I rebuilt the old master cylinder, pulled off the brand new one and fitted the rebuilt original one. I did a quick bleed and found that the pedal was now even worse! Grr, I was about to jack it in but thought that at the very least it couldn't be worse, it should be at least be the same. So I bled all 4 corners properly, and bingo! I have brakes! I took her out for a quick blast and I can not easily lock up the front tyres! 8) So the brand new brake master cylinder was the red herring.... What are the chances of the master cylinder failing and then the replacement brand new one being faulty?? But what I still don't understand is why the drivers side caliper made a difference? That was the real red herring, and the fact that clamping that hose/ replacing the caliper with a brand new one did improve braking??? Now do I leave the new caliper on or go back to the original rebuilt one? I wonder why it had any affect at all...does the new caliper have a smaller internal capacity? Well for the moment I will drive her and enjoy her before winter comes. 8)
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Thanks guys. I will clamp all four brake lines together as suggested as I only had tried one at a time and only the driver side front made a difference to the peddle. I fitted the new master cylinder as it came- cylinder and push rod. I never changed anything on it. I have a rebuild kit lying in the garage for the old one. I’ll rebuild that and could fit it as a test. So did I actually need the new caliper? How did the new caliper fix the no brakes? I’ll go mental if it was the new master cylinder all along. If it is, I wonder do I have any come back with sending the new caliper back as well as they are from the same place? Although the new caliper did fix the no brakes issue which is strange....?!?!
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One step forward and two backwards, or two forward and one backwards....anyway some progress was made tonight but the mystery continues............... :-/ I forgot to take a photo of the caliper but the nipple is on top in the correct position. I bled the caliper fixed with the nipple in the highest point as normal, and I also bled the caliper in different angles while off the car no effect. Anyway, since clamping the drivers side hose definitely firmed up the peddle (albeit 2 inches above the carpet) and I have gone over the caliper until the cows came home and can not see any issues. So I am sick to death of this problem so I decided to get rid of this caliper problem once and for all with one of these bad boys............ I fitted it tonight and bled the system again. And just like when the brake hose was clamped, this new caliper allowed the peddle to firm up at the same 2inches above the carpet. So I took her out for a blast............big difference in brakes in the way that the car now actually has brakes! :P But it's still not right. Full application of the brakes causes the nose to dip and the car to slow quickly. But before even with 2 sticky pistons this would cause both front wheels to lock solid. A jab of the peddle and then full application causes the wheels to lock as they should. So the mystery continues........... I now have brakes, but they are crap. A pump brings them to what they should be. So the peddle should go firm way before 2 inches from the carpet. So back to the master cylinder even though it's brand new? But then what was the issue with the driver's side corner that this new caliper fixed?!?!? I was so looking forward to getting this issue finally put to bed... :B :-/
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3762 wrote:Talking of orientation did you replace the pistons the way they came out? with the flat surface first. I know it is a long shot and you probably think "of course I did! What sort of an idiot would not?" I only say it as I have made some odd blunders in my time and your problem does not seem to follow usual fault characteristics and the problems do seem to have started after you rebuilt the calipers. No question or suggestion is too obvious or silly as we all make mistakes. However I did put the new pistons in the right way. The problem definitely started after I rebuilt the calipers. I went from sticky brakes with a seized piston to beautifully operating brakes that don't stop! :B
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I rebuilt my calipers a few months ago (but that is a different story! Don't mention the war!!), anyway I had to make this decision when ordering the pistons and I went for the standard steel ones based on cost. For if the original steel ones only needed to be replaced now after 39 years I recon that I won't care much if they need to be done again in another 39 years or not.
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Thanks guys. Is there is an orientation to the caliper seals? I just randomly popped them in? When I rebuild the calipers I didn't split them, I only cleaned them up, replaced the pistons, seals and dust seals. But I just popped the seals in as they looked uniform to me and I didn't know there is a particular orientation?
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I forgot to add the most confusing part- if I clamp both pistons the pedal dives into the carpet..... :D So to recap: - no clamps- pedal digs into carpet. - brake hose clamped - pedal goes firm - Clamp one piston or the other in the caliper and the pedal goes firm. - Clamp both pistons in the caliper and the pedal goes straight into the carpet :D
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Thanks for the replies. - I left the dust seals off the caliper so that I could inspect for any slight seepage around the cylinders. There is no seepage or leaks. So the dust seals aren't a factor in effecting the cylnder movement. The calipers are original to the car so are the same on both side and in fact looked like they had never been removed from the car in near 40 years! A total bugger to remove! - When I clamp the passenger side caliper it has no effect on the pedal travel at all. The pedal will bury itself in the carpet straight away, so no effect at all. In contrast the pedal goes firm as soon as you clamp the drivers side. - interesting theory on the stroke of the master cylinder, one I had not considered. I actually hoped that the master cylinder would never ever have to be touched again as I replaced it with a brand new one and painted the bulk head while I had all of the master cylinders out of the way..... my lovely paint will be messed up taking the MC off.. :-( But this makes me question is there is a issue with the MC at all? - I replaced the original MC with a brand new one when this problem originally occured. It made no difference but at least I have a brand new MC. Is this new one faulty just as the old one that came off must have been? -If the issue is with the MC along the lines of it's stroke and not flowing enough fluid (hadn't thought of that!), but then how come it can flow enough fluid for the passenger side and firm up when the driver side is clamped. But won't firm up with the passenger side clamped? So my options are now: - Replace the driver side caliper with a brand new one. 0r first - Rebuild the original master cylinder, remove the brand new one (ruining my lovely fresh paint :-( ) and fit the original again. But what are the chances of the original MC going just as I rebuilt the brakes and the the brand new being faulty too? A very strange and time wasting problem. Frustrated and perplexed!! Can someone press their brake pedal with their hand as hard as they can and tell me roughly the distance from the carpet that it goes solid? This will give me a rough guide. Mine goes firm about 2 or 3 inches off the carpet with the driver caliper clamped off. Thank!
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So today with the help of friend we confirmed the issue is with the front right hand side caliper. The hose is fine. - Fully bled all four corners today and the brake pedal still goes to the floor... - Clamp the drivers side front brake hose and the pedal goes solid about 2 inches off the floor. Release the clamp and the pedal dives straight into the carpet. - Removed caliper and rebuild it, but the exact same as above.... Now this is where it gets very strange and neither of us could explain it as it just doesn't make sense!! :o - Clamp one piston in the caliper and let the other piston move out until it locks against the disk, the brake pedal goes firm. - Clamp the other piston and do the same, the pedal goes firm. But the both pistons move out until they hit the disk and the pedal goes to the floor!!! WTF?!?!?! Clamp either piston and I can get brake pressure, but allow both pistons to move and no brake pressure... why?! It doesn't make sense! So come Monday I am ordering a new caliper as I'm sick of this issue.
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I only noticed this a few months ago when I took them off to clean them up and paint them. And then I couldn't remember which was which! I guessed the one with the strengthening bracket was the brake as you would be stamping on that with all your might versus pressing the clutch to the floor.
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1684 wrote:You should not use them as handles. Always lift at the wheel arch and at the center of the bonnet . Good tip! I have always thought that I was putting strain on mine with the weight of the bonnet.
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Cheers Phil. Yes God knows how old the rubber hoses are but they look to be in good condition. I have a set of Goodrich braided hosing sitting in a box for the last 3 years which I have never gotten around to fitting, so this is the perfect opportunity. As said above on one of my posts, one of the guys on the Nissan site had the exact same problem and he reckoned that the caliper itself was leaking, but allowing air in but no fluid out. And he ended up just replacing the whole caliper and the problem was fixed. Not sure if I but the leaky caliper without it leaking fluid out, as the fluid it so runny that it would have to get out somewhere. Anyway, I'll soldier on. I am getting this f**$%^^% car on the road before winter comes. This issue has totally wasted the summer.
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Yesterday I went back to the car after not even setting eyes on the car in weeks as I'm fed up and had stuff to do on my Nissan for a track day etc. Anyway thanks to some of the suggestions above I think that I have isolated at least the corner where the problem is: - The brake pedal goes straight to the floor. -But with the driver side front brake hose clamped the pedal goes solid about 2 inches off the floor. So this rules out the new master cylinder as the issue and would point to the driver side front caliper. (solid at 2inches off the carpet- does this still sound a little far??? Although I haven't bled the system properly since the last disconnecting and reconnect of pipe unions) So with the above logic I have removed the brake caliper and striped it down again. Before stripping it I noted that there is absolutely no leaks what soever. I striped it down and the brand new seals and pistons that I put in look 100% perfect. So I'm back to scratching my head again as the caliper looks perfect but if my logic is right then the clamping the hose does points to this corner............. I will put it all back together again and see what happens. But even if it does fix it it doesn't give me total confidence as will this happen again? I wouldn't want this to happen when I am coming to the end of a motorway! I measure one of the old pistons and it is 54mm dead on. The new pistons are 53.96mm. The 0.04mm would hardly make any difference? And if it did then surely fluid would be leaking?! That is what gets me, there is no fluid leaking anywhere......... :-/ :B
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Cheers Spider and Jaybee, all suggestions are welcome and appreciated. And as you say it is very easy to over look the obvious when frustration sets it. - I removed and rebuilt the calipers one at a time so they are on the right way around. - A few people suggested getting one of those pressure bleeding kits. Are they not messy as in getting fluid all around the reservoir? I just have an image of it squirting fluid everywhere and messing up my newly painted bulk head. I may get one as if they are that easy to use then great! I also like the gravity idea! I'll try that. Where is the best place to pick up clear tubing? I haven't looked at the car since. Couldn't bring myself to in case I burnt it out instead! ;) But I plan to go out to it on Sat and work a few hours into the night and see what I find. Thanks again guys. :)
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I feel better after a sleep- less frustrated with this job that I expected to have finished in April. :-/ I've passed about 40 quids worth of fluid through the system at this stage between the original and now the brand new master cylinder. The system would have to be nothing but air as there is still zero brake pedal pressure. :( None of the brake pistons front or rear are leaking which is the headwrecking part. I'll go back to basics and take off and disassemble the calipers all over again- bugger! :X Nothing worse that covering the same ground over and over again. Failing this I will brankrupt myself and start replacing everything with new. I'm thinking now that I should have just bought new calipers to begin with as the cost of rebuilding these two would have nearly paid for one brand new one. Not to mention the time saved. :'( It's a beautiful sunny day today- perfect for a drive. :( But I don't even want to look at the little b1tch for at least a few weeks. ;) Yes I might just replace the rear cylinders as well. In for a penny in for a pound... :( Cheers guys
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Just home after going back over the brakes and moving the pistons in and out. And still no pressure whatsoever! >:( :'( :B I've put the covers on her and she can sit there until next year. Fu<k it, I've enough jobs to be doing on my SX that I'll get on with. One last thought. The guy on the SXOC with the same symptoms believed that his caliper itself was not sealing. That the join between the two halves were allowing air in but no fluid out. He replaced the full caliper and his problem was solved. Now thinking back, I did drop one of the calipers on the ground as I was rebuilding them. Has anyone heard of this as an issue? At this point I'm sick of the whole thing. :'(
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But did you have any brake pressure at all? I think I'm beyond that- 1.5 litres of fluid, then replaced the master cylinder and another 2 litres of fluid and still nothing- pedal straight to the floor........ :'( >:( :X
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4 months later and my GT6 still sits up on axle stands with no brakes. I tested the new master cylinder as suggested above and it seems fine. Bleed it more and still nothing. >:( But as it happens, a chap on the SXOC has just rebuilt his calipers and is experiencing the exact same problems. He went through all the same process of elimination and nothing. As a last ditch attempt he pumped the rebuilt brake pistons out one at a time, but not letting them pop out of the caliper, and then pushed them all the way back in. He went trough each of the pistons this way. Then rebled the brakes. And bingo- perfect solid brakes! He reckons that one of the seals was not settled right and while not allowing fluid to leak out, but was letting air to be sucked in. Moving the pistons in and out forced the seals to settle and seal properly. I haven't anything to loose so on Sunday I will give this ago! Fingers crossed!!! ;)
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Just to close off this thread. I ended up returning the piece of crap new fuel pump with a letter pointing out why it is such a piece of crap. No arguments, they didn't even offer a replacement. My money was refunded straight away. I bought one from Rimmers Bros and am very pleased with. A much much higher quality fuel pump. Went on without issues and even has a proper steel mesh filter. 8)
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Okay thanks. Mine is definitely a single line system so. Just a bigger clutch master cylinder. I will test the MC as stated above. I'll try it at the end of the line as far away from my lovely new paint work as possible! ;)