bennygoodman
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Everything posted by bennygoodman
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Found the problem, the rack and trunnions are ok, once I disconnected the track rod ends it was still heavy so obviously I suspected the rack, I decided to uncouple the steering column from the rack, once I had undone the pinch bolt from the rack and then slackened the bolts holding the column inside the car it all went slack, I tightened the pinch bolt up again and it was still slack, then when I tightened the column up it went stiff again. Either I have overtightened the column or something in the column isn't lined up correctly so that will be tomorrows job, take the column out and see what is making it go tight, by the way should this car have a steering lock?
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Nick_Jones wrote:Steering should self-centre. The self-centering effect is given by the caster angle (4º positive for GT6 IIRC). Greater caster angle increases the self centering effect but also makes the steering heavier. Heavy steering and a lack of self-centering suggests the problem lies elsewhere. Sounds like mechanical stiffness in this case. Best to disconnect both track rod ends from the steering arms at the taper joint and see whether the stiffness lies in the steering swivels on either side (trunion at the bottom of balljoint at the top) or in the rack itself. Nick This afternoons job will be to disconnect both track rod ends and see what is causing the stiffness.
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OK guys thanks for all the replies but one crucial point, does the steering self centre?
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cliftyhanger wrote:Leccy fan may not help, the rad may require a record if it has been left, a flush won't fix it if this is the case. But worth a try, don't forget the drain plug on the block..... As to steering, have you checked the trunnions? My gt6 (many years ago) suffered a seized trunnion/upright that caused similar issues. Just a thought. I took the track rod end off the nearside and turned the steering wheel and it still seemed heavy, I'll take the offside one off tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. Talking of trunnions, my haynes manual says use hypoid90 oil in them not grease, is this correct?
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royboy66 wrote:Benny, is the tracking set correctly? :) Roy Don't know about that yet royboy66, I intend getting 4 wheel alignment done when I have sorted all the teething problems out but I can't see it affecting the heaviness with the wheels off the ground.
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Well after getting my MOT on Friday and taking the car out for a couple of runs probably the first time in many a year I have found a couple of problems, obviously it has been very hot this weekend and I have been sat in traffic watching the temp guage steadilly rising, I'm not too bothered as yet because I gave it a good flush out when I got home and intend to fit an electric fan. But the steering is what is troubling me, it is really heavy and doesn't self centre, is it supposed to self centre? I jacked the whole front of the car up today getting the front wheels off the ground and found it really hard to move from left to right by pulling on the road wheels, should it be hard or is my rack siezed with very old grease, I have tried pumping more grease into it and it is going in and coming into the gator so I know it is greased.
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I used clear silicon
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A windscreen fitter, "Old timer" came round to fit my GT6 windscreen today after I had had a go but couldn't get it in right, and he said you need to fit the windscreen chrome first to the rubber before you fit the screen into the aperture. We ended up not fitting mine because there were some scrape marks on it from the wipers and I was persuaded to buy a brand new one, it is being ordered and he will fit it when it arrives.
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I'm in the final stages of my GT6 restoration and was just wondering before I put everything back together is there any way of testing if the overdrive is working without actually driving the car?
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2250 wrote:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-P6-Lucas-Windscreen-Wiper-Washer-Switch-34672B-All-Working-1966-/111178121761?nma=true&si=B806Cmd6JX9V8NXUfooVkFESJgA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 cheers, Harry Good spot Harry, the knob is the same as mine although mine has 8 connections on the back, looks like a modification then, at least I got it working today, including intermittent but still no park.
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What about the switch though, does anybody recognise it?
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thescrapman wrote: Intermittant?????? I'm not convinced any GT6 had them, Well not unless they had a wiring problem. I stand to be corrected Cheers Colin Should it go to full speed first and then slow speed, any answers will help me get it working correctly.
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I have a similar problem with my wipers and due to me not stripping the wiring off the car before the rebuild started it has had to be guess work in putting wires back on. When I turn my wiper switch to the first position which I pressume is intermittent nothing happens, then the next turn it goes to full speed, then the next turn it goes to slow speed but when I turn it all the way off it doesn't park, below is a picture of my switch, it incorporates the washer motor as well. At one stage when wiring it up I'm sure I saw the wipers go intermittent but don't know how I had the wires on the switch, any help with where the wires go on this switch will be gratefully accepted.
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My seats are completely unusable both the foam and vinyl covers are shot, it seems from looking on the usual sites that a foam pack for both is around £200 and a vinyl pack around £300. Has anyone tried this type of seat, it works out cheaper than buying just the foam and doesn't look to bad as a stop gap measure. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-Of-Universal-Classic-Style-Clubman-Bucket-Seats-Ideal-For-TRIUMPH-Models-/151065492311?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ATriumph|Model%3AGT6&hash=item232c347b57
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3141 wrote: The green is a direct feed Benny that doesn't come via the switch. It's for the parking arrangement which is different from the single speed motor. I didn't mean the green wire, i meant the green cable next to the earth wire, LouisW has stated its the throttle cable, is this correct?
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John, what is that green cable next to the earth wire in the second picture please?
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Cheers John, that confirms my wiring is ok as I have 12 volts on all wires at the motor, it was just that earth that was confusing me, i'll order a new motor, like you say they are quite cheap. Thanks everyone else for your input and suggestions.
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If you look at the plug in the second picture the black wire is an earth but goes directly to one of the brushes, the green, and green and red at the top go directly to the other two brushes, the two wires below don't attach to anything, I think my problem is live wires and earth wires going to the brushes.
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And there is only one way the plug will fit on the motor so it isn't being fitted the wrong way, why has the plug got an earth if the body is earthed? I think I have a botch job or something here.
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6797 wrote:Are you sure it's the motor? Have you done a simple continuity check between earth and the "live" terminals on the switch with the motor disconnected to check the the loom hasn't frayed/snagged causing a short? Then I'd try a similar check on just the motor - 1 terminal should be live (IIRC) for the motor to "park" the other 2 should be for the 2 speeds. Motor should be earth through the casing. (Also IIRC) Switch is sound, with the switch off there is no power to the block that connects to the motor, with the switch on there is a live to all four wires except the earth but the earth on the block is connected to one of the brushes, should this be so?
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I'm still sorting through the wiring on my MK3 GT6 and I'm stuck on the wiper motor, most of the rest is done. It has a two speed motor on it but it doesn't work, and when I turn it on it blows the 15amp fuse. So I decided to take it off and strip it down but cant find anything vissibly wrong with it, it all looks fine. If I earth the motor and put a live on each of the terminals nothing happens, if I put a live on two terminals nothing happens and if I put a live on all three terminals nothing happens. So as I know nothing about electric motors I need to ascertain whether the wiring is correct. Where the rotor sits there are 3 brushes, all appear to be ok although the one with the yellow wire attached is a different shape but looks like it should be that shape. The wiring block that connects to the motor has five wires connected to it but only three go to the motor, the extreme left hand black one is an earth wire and connects to one of the bushes, the blue one I think. Should the bushes have a live and an earth connected to them, or should they all be live with just the motor body earthed. If the bushes have a live and an earth I must pressume my rotor is goosed (technical word) and I need a new motor, I don't want to buy a new motor until I can find out if there is a live in and earth out to the bushes, all the connections in the block to the motor are showing 12 volts except the earth.
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Thanks for the help, I now have power to the fuse.
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I'll try that tomorrow then, switch lights on and try the fuse for power.
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What I can't understand is why there is no live at the fuse, once the ignition is on the fusebox should be live surely, anyone else got any ideas?
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Hello all, I'm still trying to work out the electrics on my car a !972 MK3 GT6, in the fuse box in the battery tray there are 3 fuses, top middle and bottom, both the top and bottom have power on both terminals so all is ok on those, but the centre fuse has no power whatsoever on either terminal. Does anyone know what the centre fuse is for and where it gets its power from? I do have a red live wire inside the car that is attached to the bottom fuse but it isn't attached to anything, it is just dangling down with no spade connector or anything on it! There is also no power to the interior lights, not that there are any attached its just that the wires for the door switches are also dangling down loose. Any help on this centre fuse will be appreciated.