bennygoodman
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Everything posted by bennygoodman
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Can I just ask where does the overdrive get it's oil supply from, does it get it from the gearbox or does it have an independent supply of it's own?
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Well done, I look forward to following your rebuild.
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I'd start again at the beginning, turn the ignition on, make sure there is power at the points, just open them slightly and if you get a spark you have power, turn the ignition off to stop the coil overheating. Make sure you have the firing order correct at the distributor cap. Make sure plugs are all dry with the correct gaps, make sure the points gap is correct as well. Then, get some easy start, take your air filters off, spray it in the carbs and give it a whirl, if you have a spark at the plugs and easy start in the inlet manifold you must get some kind of engine response. Just one other thing to do if it doesn't start, turn the engine over in the dark to see if there is a short anywhere, you will see a blue spark if there is, you won't notice it in daylight though.
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No Idea as yet Stu, I will be taking that thing on the left under the dash out to have a closer look at it, it looks like some kind of "entertainment" centre.
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Hello all, I have just taken delivery of this 1971/2 Triumph Herald, it will be stored for a few months as I'm in the process of restoring one of the few Rover114 Cabriolets left at the moment and then I will start on this little beauty. It does seem very solid, more solid than my GT6 was when I first bought that, I will update this thread as and when I do anything to the car.
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I've just had 5, 155,75,13 Avons fitted to my 4.5j rims, £33 each fitted and balanced with new valve from Tyreshopper which is National Tyres online store.
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Mine is also stiff but I haven't investigated it fully yet, what I have done though is jacked the car up and removed the steering column from the rack and both wheels turn freely side to side so it isn't an issue with the steering rack or steering arms. What I did find though is if I loosen the bolts for the upper and lower steering column brackets the steering goes substantially lighter, it is the next job on my to do list.
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10312 wrote:Just realised it's a Overhaul/Service kit I've got so I'll only be doing that then and see how that pans out. Hopefully that's all it needs. So Where can I get a Carb balancer? I'll post a pic tomorrow when I give it a go at looking at them fully but I'm 95% sure it's not a waxstart. I bought this type and there is one on ebay now with a 99p starting price and no bids. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carb-Balancer-Carburettor-Balancing-Tool-With-Air-Flow-/180748349770?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a1570f14a
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I found after a rebuild my car wasn't ticking over correctly so I bought a cheapo carb balancer and found they were miles out, balanced them up and it ticks over nicely now.
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jcarruthers wrote:Why is this even a discussion? Fan on the engine side of the rad, sucking through the radiator — controlled by a thermostatic switch. Never need worry about anything ever again. The reason for the post was to prevent hot air being drawn towards the bulkhead and gearbox cover which makes the car interior slightly hot, by reversing the fan it would draw the hot air out of the engine bay and out of the vehicle and as I have stated it is only when the vehicle is stationary on hot days that any overheating occurs, the air whether hot or not passing through the radiator would still cool it because it would be cooler than the boiling water.
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RobPearce, the fan has a manual switch, it is only used when the engine is overheating when stood in traffic, not stood for a few minutes but for a long time as happened on Saturday on the East Lancs road, as soon as the car is moving it is turned off as the car doesn't overheat when moving. I thought I made that clear in my original post but obviously your a bit slow.
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The fan works in either direction by just changing the live and earth terminals over on the motor so it is a two minute job to do. My thoughts were thoughts were to suck air out as it only overheats when stood, never when on the move to keep the cabin a bit cooler, surely even if the air is hot that is being drawn through the radiator it will still cool it sufficiently to stop it overheating as the hot air will still be cooler than the boiling water?
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Shame, I'd love a SuperMinx.
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Looking forward to watching your progress, is that a SuperMinx or a Humber Sceptre in the background?
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Luckily I fitted an electric fan last Friday because I was taking my GT6 for it's first longish run on Saturday and got stuck on the East Lancs for about 30 minutes in this glorious weather we're having. I have fitted the fan on the outside of the radiator and have it drawing air from outside towards the engine but I'm wondering if I could make the interior of the car a bit cooler if I swap it to draw air from the engine towards the outside of the car through the front of the bonnet, the fan is only in use when the car is stationary as it does not overheat when on the move.
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I had a bit of trouble swapping a GT6 door and a MK1v door because the slot that the glass goes in is slightly narrower in the mk1v door which made fitting the new rubber seals a bit harder.
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Hmmm, I've got 3 MGf's and 8 spare alloys, I might be digging the alloys out later this week and checking, if not the MGf spare is a full size wheel and they are never used as they are not alloys, I'll have a look to see if they fit as well.
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I would do a compression test first before asking a garage to grind the valve seats because you are opening a bag of worms when you tell them what you want done, go buy a compression tester off ebay and test each cylinder yourself, if they are ok you don't need your valves touching. As for the cylinder head gasket its not a £350 job, once you remove the studs which, as I learnt from the people on this forum, the head comes off easily, a quick clean up and replace everything, set your timing, job done.
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Good luck but post some pictures before and after please.
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Cheers savvy2500. I took the car out of the garage tonight because it was a nice evening to have a look around. Firstly it is a brand new battery of the recommended type, secondly and I had forgotten this, i don't why because it was only a few weeks ago, it has a new (refurbished from Paddocks) starter motor and a new solonoid, what I did find was the screw in the starter motor that the lead from the solonoid goes to was loose, I have tightened it up and will when the weather permits take it out for a run and see if it has solved the problem.
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I've not had chance to look yet but from memory I recall and earth lead from the engine to the battery earth point. I'll look as soon as the weather improves enough to get the car out of the garage.
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piman wrote:Hello Benny, as the voltage is dropping so low, it seems that there is a heavy current draw so the earth return is probably OK. Was the starter turning very slowly when this measurement was taken, if so that is where the problem is. A starter motor is virtually a dead short across the battery when first operated and it's rotation makes it generate which opposes the current draw (I.e. a spinning starter takes less power from the battery than one that is barely turning). Either the battery is defective (not so likely if it cranks OK cold) or the starter motor is getting tired? I'd take the starter off and have a look inside as the first step. Alec No when the measure was taken it was turning quite fast but not quite as fast as when first starting from cold.
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Hello all, I wonder if anyone has had a fault like this, on my MK3 GT6 I have some kind of earth fault. When I get in the car and it is cold it starts as it should, I.E. the starter motor spins the engine over freely. Then if I stop the car after a few miles when the engine is hot and try to restart it a few minutes later it is as if the battery is flat, sometimes it will barely turn the engine over, other times it will turn it over very slowly. Then if I leave it for 20 or 30 minutes it starts up as if nothing was ever wrong. When I took it for my MOT the mechanic put his meter on the battery and said it is charging correctly at around 14v, the battery is brand new by the way. He then asked me to turn the engine off and put his tester on I pressume the battery positive lead and an earth and said it has dropped down to around 7v while trying to start the engine intimating an earth fault, any ideas anyone?
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Good luck with your restoration, in the end it will be well worth it as I can testify from personal experience.
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Theres a long stud on the right hand side of the tank which makes up the three mounting points.