bennygoodman
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Everything posted by bennygoodman
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Wow, looks like you have your work cut out there but it is satisfying and stops you getting bored :)
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Bruce, have you made the door cards yourself or had them made, I will need them myself shortly?
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Hello Bruce, I must apologise, this is the first time I have read your thread due to being busy doing a bit of restoration work myself, it was nice to see my old workshop and even nicer to see how your car was coming along, I think I'm a bit behind you. I was going to ask if anyone had made a wiring loom for a GT6 as mine is in a very bad condition and see that you have already done that, do you have a readme on how to do it or could you write one, I would rather replace mine as the wires are to brittle in my opinion to put back together and I would like to replace it?
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Just back from Sheffield having purchased the proper 6 bolt one, I will be cleaning it up later today and then painting it, it is a bit of a mess at the minute.
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Nick_Jones wrote:Wah....! That must have made a NASTY noise :o As already mentioned a 3.63 makes a good compromise between 3.89:1 and 3.27:1 and works very well with a 2L with OD. It is also reasonably readily available unlike the 3.27:1. Keep the rear casing from your old one with the 6 bolt holes in case as most 3.63s and and many 3.89s will come with the incorrect 4 bolt casing. Nick The one that is on the car has a four bolt casing and as I have no previous information of the car I don't know why it is a four bolt and not a six bolt.
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5161 wrote:What car do you have? noticed there is a used diff on fleabay at the moment. Can you post a link up for it, i can't find it?
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1972 GT6 with overdrive.
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Thanks for that info, although the history of the car says it had no overdrive it has overdrive fitted so this must have been added later, it also has the four bolt plate on top, I have managed to source one from Spitfire graveyard and will be calling on them tomorrow.
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I was about to put my body back on the chassis today and while cleaning things up I leaned on the prop shaft and it turned round without the wheels moving causing me to fall over. So I jacked the back end up and turned the road wheel and the opposite one stayed still, not good I thought. So while it was easily accessible I whipped the diff off and had a look and the result is not good. The pinion wheel I think it is called has gone, there was no oil at all in the diff just the metal from the wheel that has been chewed up. So, I need a new diff before i put the tub back on the chassis, my GT6 is a rotaflex, are all diffs the same and before I go buying one has anybody got a good diff knocking around for sale?
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Cheers Clifty, I wont need to diss anything, the tub is completely stripped while I'm restoring the thing.
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Cheers Clifty, I wont need to diss anything, the tub is completely stripped while I'm restoring the thing.
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I'm seriously thinking of removing the body tub to lay it on its side in order to clean up the underside, do a bit of welding and then stonechip it while it is off, how hard is it to remove bareing in mind the interior is completely stripped and there is no glass in it, and how many people does it take to lift it off in safety?
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I'm seriously thinking of removing the body tub to lay it on its side in order to clean up the underside, do a bit of welding and then stonechip it while it is off, how hard is it to remove bareing in mind the interior is completely stripped and there is no glass in it, and how many people does it take to lift it off in safety?
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Cheers Cook1e.
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Cheers for the reply Nick.
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Silly me, forgot the picture.
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Has anybody done the Rotoflex telescopic conversion kit on here that can help me. When I bought the car this kit was partly fitted, the brackets were in place but the dampers not fitted, when I have tried to fit the dampers which are Spax adjustable they are not long enough, fully extended they do not reach the brackets. Also there is an angle between the bottom bracket and the top bracket which is sloping from the bottom bracket towards the rear of the car if that makes sense. I have enclosed just one picture for now of the top bracket which also to me looks much to close to the body of the car, the bolt is actually touching the bodywork, does anyone have any pictures of how it should look fitted or is this fitted correctly?
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3141 wrote:I shall be gearing up to make a GT6 roof in aluminium and there is no reason why I couldn't make one or two roof repair panels in 20 gauge (1mm) steel. If anybody is interested, please let me know. I would be interested if it ever came to fruition as I'm part way through my restoration, I have repaired the roof but need to leave my options open in case my repair is not good enough.
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bobyspit wrote: yes but why? I have a spit and would like GT6 doors with the quarter light, why would you go different? Rob Will the quarter light off the scrap door not fit into a mk4 door? or do I need a GT6 door.
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Would a mk4/1500 door fit a GT6 mk3, not bothered about glass as I have all the glass, its just the basic door I'm talking about.
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Alex wrote: If your talking about the plastic type I found them practically hopeless when stripping my new bonnet of its black paint.I tried nitromors and all that did was make the bonnet wet and dint remove a bit of paint no matter how long I left it! In the end I just had to sand the lot down with a power sander. I've tried paint/varnish stripper as well that I bought from the paint mixing shop but all that does is take off the first layer, this car has its original layer plus undercoat, then at least three other colours and the undercoat for them so your looking at a huge amount of the stuff at nearly £25 a gallon.
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piman wrote:Hello Benny, are you sure, these discs are about 3/4" thick and come in one grade, at least the ones stocked locally are. (Funnily enough I think they are Dronco) Alec Yes these are about that thick, I will start to use them again once it stops raining, I didn't use them at first because I was told they were for finishing only and not for taking paint off but they did seem to be the fastest of the things I was trying. I think one reason I stopped using them was that I was told an angle grinder is to fast for them, I will have another go once the rain stops as the bonnet is outside now I have brought it home to work on.
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jcarruthers wrote:What grade are you using? 40, 80 & 120, starting with 40 due to the amount of coats and working towards the finer paper as it gets down a few coats.
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piman wrote:Hello Benny, consider these if you have an angle grinder, they are much quicker than a D\A sander and leave a good ready for paint finish and will also remove rust patches. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7000000_nid=GSLFNJGWJ4beRJ5GMFSMV0gl Most engineering\farmers\welding suppliers stock them, not cheap but extremely effective. Alec I've been using those as well, my son works for DRONCO so I get all my wet & dry and abrasives at cost but its still taking ages because of the amount of coats of paint on the damn car.
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Anyone know why I'm not getting email replies to my posts to show when people reply, I have ticked the box at the bottom of the post but don't get any email reminders for any posts?