bennygoodman
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Everything posted by bennygoodman
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490 wrote: So we’re talking late model Strombergs that adjust from inside the carb…. Early ones just pull out. They must be Paudman because that was how they came out, I'm suprised the Haynes manual doesn't advise on both methods unless it was printed prior to the change.
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There is an excellent guide here. http://www.bowtie6.com/other/zenith-stromberg-carburetter-repair/
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Thanks for the reply Paudman but I had just found out prior to your post how to do it, you actually have to remove the locking screw and then unscrew the needle adjusting screw prior to pulling out the needle and not as it says in the Haynes manual which is remove the locking screw and pull the needle out, that won't work because it is being held in place by the adjusting screw. Now I need to get the adjusting screw out in order to replace the rubber O ring.
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I'm trying to remove the needles from my Stromberg cd carbs to renew them but can't get them out and don't want to force anything. I have removed the grub screw from the piston but the needle is stuck solid. Is there something inside the piston holding the needle in or does it just need forcing out, also I pressume it pushes towards the inside of the piston rather than from the inside outwards?
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Anyone got a picture of where the wires for the heated rear screen come out, i.e. out of the headlining to the window, i need to know before I fit my headlining?
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Another question on this heated rear screen wiring, i can't find any pictures of how it runs except one that shows the screen wire and interior light wires coming out where the interior light is during an interior refit, where do they go to attach to the rear screen and I pressume one wire the passenger side one is live and the other side will be an earth wire, where does this earth wire come from? Anyone got a picture of their rear screen showing the wires please?
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This dim dip relay, is it positioned on the inside of the boot area i.e. where the petrol tank is or behind the C pillar hidden away?
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Cheers Colin, but where does the rear screen heater wire run please?
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I've started putting the wiring back in my GT6 MK3, I have ran the main cable on the passenger side along the floor, through the inner sill and up and over the inner wheel arch, then there is a yellow block with about 8 wires attached, I have found a mounting point for that near the petrol filler pipe but now I need a bit of advice. Where do the wires for the heated rear screen, interior light at the rear and tailgate light actually run via, do they run inside a pillar and then come out again somewhere or do they run on the outside of the pillars and get covered by interior fittings, also where is the run for the rear light cables and the wire for the petrol tank guage, do they go under or over the tank or around it? Cheers.
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I think I'm a couple of brackets missing then for the solid pipe on the brake cylinders, I've had two good searches but can't find them, I'll have to leave the setting up of the brakes until later in the rebuild then in case they turn up, my next problem is the wiring routes.
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Brilliant npanne, just what I needed to see.
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Where does the front flexi brake hose go to, it won't reach the caliper so there must be a copper pipe from the caliper to somewhere that attaches to the flexi but I can't find anywhere to attach another pipe to if that makes sense? All I have is the pipes up to a bracket, then the flexi, then nothing, anyone got a picture please.
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I've just taken my bumpers into a place called noisychrome after seeing some of their work, they prep the bumpers and then send them for chroming, the charge is around £140 per bumper including a repair on the front bumper which has a dent. I'll post pics of the results when I get them back in four weeks.
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No hypoid 90 in it so its chewed the big cog at the end?
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cook1e wrote:I've been using this kit for about 10 years on my GT6 with no issues. Some people don't like the way the shocks are tilted at an angle but I've found no issues with this in terms of handling. I recently replaced the mounting rubbers after 10 years as I had a squeak but it turned out not to be the rubber mounts so they didn't actually need replacing even after 10 years of use. Handling is good and no issues with bottoming out etc. Koni are definitely the best shocks in terms of longevity, they are expensive initially but compared with the likes of Spax, Gaz and Avo etc will outlast several times over. Only issue is they cant be adjusted in situ. Officially they have to be adjusted officially off the car (although I have managed to adjust with the top mounts left in situ). Cookie, I will shortly be fitting the rear shock absorbers to my rebuild but I still can't work out how they are going to fit, I have just measured the distance between the centres of the mounting brackets from top to bottom and it is 11 inches but the gap between the two mounts is much bigger than that. The shock absorbers that came with the car (but not fitted) are spax krypton adjustable. How the hell do you get the suspension to compress enough to fit these shock absorbers and if you do compress it does the shock obsorber stop the up and down travel as well as acting as an obsorber?
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I've started rebuilding the car and trying to work out what to replace and what to put back that is original, I think I need a new headlining but as I don't know what is included in the headlining or what colour I should go for I need your help again. What exactly does the headlining comprise of and where is the best place to buy from. I need the covers for the front windscreen pillars, is this included in the headlining also how far down does the headlining go, any interior pictures would be welcome, cheers.
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hypoid53 wrote:Only the very last GT6's (Feb '73 to Nov '73), ie the non-rotoflex ones with sundym glass had servos fitted from the factory, and they only worked on the front brakes as the rear drums were larger and with the dreaded self-adjusters. Yours sounds like an early Mk3 (1970-71), should be rotoflex and does not have, or need, a servo. It is modern car usage that gets people so used to them that they feel everything should have them! ;D Yes it is a very early one but still a 1972, I won't be fitting one then.
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I bought the car as a stripped down shell with everything in boxes and bags so I didn't know what was with the car or not, now I am putting it back together I am finding missing bits as I go along.
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says ke4083 in the log book.
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Should my GT6 MK3 have a brake servo, if it should I can't find it in the boxes of bits.
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Cheers, black it is then.
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I've just dug out the brake and clutch master cylinder brackets and found they need painting. When new were these colour coded to the car or were they all black, the ones I have are black but as they need repainting I was wondering what they would have originally been.
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8112 wrote:Bruce, great thread, truly inspiring and full of useful information. I have just taken delivery of my 3rd Gt6, but my first full restoration. I'm really looking forward to getting back into Triumphs (why did i ever leave) and starting on the rebuild, but I am apprehensive about welding, ;-) I have really set my heart on doing everything, except the paint myself. I must say seeing all the hidden rust on your restoration has prepared me (not completely) for some scary surprises. Best of luck. Brett Buy the best welder you can Lincoln or Snap on, others just make the job harder.
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Cheers Nick, I shall continue to strip and clean the components down now.
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I've got the head off my 1972 GT6 to inspect and clean up but before I removed the valves for cleaning I though I would check to make sure all parts are available for the rebuild. Then when I checked the workshop manual and parts catalogue there was no mention of valve stem oil seals, do these engines not use them, and if not how is the oil prevented from draining down the stem into the combustion chamber?