Phwoar
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Everything posted by Phwoar
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1903 wrote:I've got a set of Front and Rear Spax shocks sat in my garage that are new and unused The fronts are the height adjustable ones, and the rears come complete with the chassis mounting bracket kit (which I've has powdercoated properly) Louis has first refusal on the front shocks, but the rears are still available if you want a new set Let me know if they're any use to you? I have a set of Spax shocks waiting to go on the rear, no chassis mounting kit though. Can you post a picture of the kit so I know what to look for? (or point me at a link) Cheers.
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michael_charlton wrote: In the case of some people .....just with one hand ;) ..... or maybe Chris just looks at them harshly and they test themselves? :)
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If it's "runninging" does that mean it's bifurcated and take two different routes?
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Nice!
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You're getting there, welding is just like everything else, practice makes perfect. I'm practicing on shelves for the shed before I go near the car.
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I will start a build thread when I start to fit the engine, gearbox and rear end. The chassis may need notching to fit the engine but it won't take much. I will have to modify the rear of the chassis significantly. Lots of pics when I start chopping, I promise. I believe the smallport 4A-GE was released as a more powerful version in Australia, same as the Japanese model. There's a couple of reasons I didn't go for the 20v, the distributor hangs out of the back of the head and I would have had to cut into the firewall to make it fit, Toyota made superchargers for the 16v, I could, if the fancy takes me, bolt one on later. I think Triumph would have come up with a 16v crossflow engine in time and I think the Toyota's copy of the BDA is a more sympathetic match, more so than a "Volvo" motor. Cheers.
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Hi Chris, it's the "smallport redtop" which was factory rated at 100 Kw (135 BHP) when new. I picked my bare spare engine up out of the back of a ute and put it on a bench so I'm thinking 123 Kg sounds a bit on the heavy side. Even if it weighs in at near that, the peripherals are lighter, all in all it should be about the same weight as the 1147cc engine. I'll be moving it back a little, compared with the standard engine location, to balance the car a little better. The 4A-GE would be a stunning engine if it had an alloy block, it's a real pity Toyota didn't go that extra step. Cheers, James
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4058 wrote:James the 4A-GE is a little sreamer! Nice engines. As for the above 6 speed, theres a lot of "if" & "maybe" so I dont think many will go for it, you need to change so many parts to make it work. The type 9 is an easier route and they are still available. I think it's going to be OK, overbore .040, head planed, block decked, I'm hoping for 150 BHP. cliftyhanger wrote:And don't I wish I had picked up a couple of t50 boxes when they were cheap.....lovely bits of kit. However, I am lucky enough to have bought t9's at the right time and price, and then I thought £50 was plenty. Fortunately, they're reasonably plentiful here in Oz. ferny wrote: Excellent! That's the route I was going to go down but the gearbox option was far too expensive - I did very limited research I must add. Got any info? Start a thread, please! I kind of got carried away and collected a few more than I need, seems I have five now, averaging about AUS$ 100 each. Just got to put it all together with a Subaru diff and MX5 rear control arms, hubs, etc., BMW half-shafts with Lowbro 930 CVs and bit of figuring to do to get it all right.
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4058 wrote:James the 4A-GE is a little sreamer! Nice engines. As for the above 6 speed, theres a lot of "if" & "maybe" so I dont think many will go for it, you need to change so many parts to make it work. The type 9 is an easier route and they are still available. I think it's going to be OK, overbore .040, head planed, block decked, I'm hoping for 150 BHP. cliftyhanger wrote:And don't I wish I had picked up a couple of t50 boxes when they were cheap.....lovely bits of kit. However, I am lucky enough to have bought t9's at the right time and price, and then I thought £50 was plenty. Fortunately, they're reasonably plentiful here in Oz. ferny wrote: Excellent! That's the route I was going to go down but the gearbox option was far too expensive - I did very limited research I must add. Got any info? Start a thread, please! I kind of got carried away and collected a few more than I need, seems I have five now, averaging about AUS$ 100 each. Just got to put it all together with a Subaru diff and MX5 rear control arms, hubs, etc., BMW half-shafts with Lowbro 930 CVs and bit of figuring to do to get it all right.
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If the bore of the slave cylinder is smaller then your clutch pedal throw will be shorter and vice-versa. I guess you could live with a shorter clutch pedal but a longer one may prove problematic, i.e. you may not be able to fully disengage the clutch if you get some air in the line etc.
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Just to throw another variable into the equation ....... I'll be using a Toyota T50 box with the following ratios ... First Gear: 3.587:1 Second Gear: 2.022:1 Third Gear: 1.384:1 Fourth Gear: 1.00:1 Fifth Gear: 0.861:1 Not quite as high in top gear as the type 9 but it only weighs 22Kg. (ahem, ahem, it will be mated to a 4A-GE 1600cc engine) OK, shoot me now. Cheers, James
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Are the pictures of the rear suspension/diff modifications available anywhere?
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Not worth risking the consequences of a dodgy oil pump, replace it.
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Ah, bugger!
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Almost mandatory to remove the door to repair that kind of damage, welding that up would be a tough proposition without doing so. Might not be too bad if the car were on a rotisserie but even then I ithink I'd be taking the door off. If the car is off its chassis brace the gap before you remove the door, if the tub is still bolted to the chassis it shouldn't change the gaps.
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uksnatcher wrote:The MGF wheels i had were removed unused, straight out of 4 cars with new factory fitted 175/65/14 Goodyear GT65 tyres rated at 82T (118mph and 475kg) so good to go. That would make for a cheap set of wheels and tyres.
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uksnatcher wrote:The MGf steel (spare) wheels looks like 28cm offset too, fitted to my spit: Interesting, but aren't they "space savers" and limited to 80 KPH, 50 MPH, or is that just the tyre they fit?
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Cheers guys, there you go then, standard fitment. I have never seen one like that before and found it just a little odd/interesting.
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Interesting radiator header tank on this mk1 for sale in Oz. (No connection). http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=141327714986&alt=web
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I was flicking through your thread using my phone, missed your note, Doh! (whistle) Keep up the good work.
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Was thinking the same, maybe it had been owned by someone that needed a little help with the clutch as well as the brakes. Thought it was a bit of a stretch, silly even, so left it unsaid. :)
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4058 wrote:I have just put aside a nice spring at work for that very purpose! So I think I need to make two then! ;) Maybe even 3. ;D
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royboy66 wrote:That's what I did 8) http://youtu.be/tliIRyrtLuQ Well now, there's a trick, I don't think it would have occurred to me do that and I've got a couple of gearboxes that need testing. Proper job.
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7915 wrote:no the early 1147cc ones ie up to mk2 were positive earth OK, thanks. My Mk2 should be negative earth then. It's still in a thousand pieces and I am going to re-wire it completely, one way or another it'll be negative earth by the time I've finished. (If I ever finish it)
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Walk softly and carry a big hammer! Drilled into by my dad who was no mechanic!