Mj17
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One thing missing from the instruction so far is a towel. Between Fig. 10 and 11 above, once you've folded the hood fabric forward place the towel over the window before folding the quater light windows in. Stops the really annoying scratches you can get where the plastic queter lights and rear window run against each other while stowed. Towel also gives good service when the hood's up and it's raining...and leaking.
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Yes, you should fit the dust cover over the end of the cylinder. Been a while but from memory the shaped gater that (doesn't) fit in to the bulkhead will be loose on it's own as it's designed to seal over the end of the master cylinder+round dust seal, not just direct to the master cylinder. As for how to slip the round dust seal over the rod - you're just not pushing hard-enough! It takes a good shove and I think I went clevis end first. Try dropping the seal in a mug of hot water for a few minutes to make it a bit more flexible.
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Only problem part of swapping the sealing block is fitting those bloody wooden wedges. All seem to be way over-sized so need a lot of fettling to fit, then you can't get the best of angles to chisle them flush. Doesn't end up looking the best but done mine twice in-situ (once to replace the block/once to rebuild the bottom end) and not had any leaks.
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Only problem part of swapping the sealing block is fitting those bloody wooden wedges. All seem to be way over-sized so need a lot of fettling to fit, then you can't get the best of angles to chisle them flush. Doesn't end up looking the best but done mine twice in-situ (once to replace the block/once to rebuild the bottom end) and not had any leaks.
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Is it advisable? Yes. Wish I'd had one fitted BEFORE I started getting this strange noise...that turned out to be about 10PSI at hot idle :( How do I fit one? Simplest way is a mechanical kit. Mine came from Paddocks - JPS971. This gives you gauge, pipe and T-piece that replaces the oil pressure sender unit under the distributor. I added an eBay special gauge mounting bracket that hangs off of the outside parcel tray mounting bolt.
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Are the jet on your carbs just little red sticks of plastic or a mini metal candle holder? The former are the 'traditional' just and the latter Waxstat ones that reduce emissions/just cause problems. If you've taking the old ones off might be worth converting to standard jets.
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If both float chambers had fuel in them it suggests blocks carb jets. Remove the air filters and dashpot covers and pump the choke a few times (just grab the cable and pull/push a few time). You should see fuel looking down the jet. If not try removing the carb jet from the carb/float chamber and giving it a good (and tasty if you don't have a compressor) blow through.
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Got one fitted to my Mk IV - no issues with fitting/interfearance. Have you got a pump with manual priming leaver under it or anything?
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thescrapman wrote:engineers suplied bearings - Check what they supplied. Probably not the remanufactured tri-metal bearings availabel from Revington TR (see bottom of http://revingtontrltd.cmail1.com/t/ViewEmail/y/F7515226DE7EB269/34718B6166A1B5712A1BF84ACBDD178B).
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I've got (Mk1) MX5 seats in my Mk IV and they are way more comfortable and supportive than originals. The down side is that you do sit an inch or so higher. Not a major problem for a short-ass like me but could be if you're tall. Think you might need some new holes in the floorpan and need to fettle the end of the inner seat runners.
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9234 wrote:I have see mike papworth a name being mentioned on old posts, is he still doing gearboxes? Yep, and still probably the best man for anything either end of the prop shaft.
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9234 wrote:I have see mike papworth a name being mentioned on old posts, is he still doing gearboxes? Yep, and still probably the best man for anything either end of the prop shaft.
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If the car lives outside you may want to keep doing what you're doing actually. It varies from car to car but how well the hood and window do/can be made to fit together varies, with a correponding difference in how dry things stay inside the car. Normally 'flaps inside' is fine but with the door/hood fit on my car I was very glad I went 'flaps out' when leaving it outside as the tail of the hurricane dumps on us last week!
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Fuses are cheap so grab a handful and start of by replacing them all as a matter of course. I've had fuses look fine from the outside and even have continuity when the car's parked but when I popped them out found the wire was no longer soldered to the end cap. Stationary, even idling the wire touched the cap and made the circuit. Driving and going over bumps it would wobble and keep making/breaking constact. While you have the old fuses out check the terminals carefully. I've also had something get the fusebox hot enough to melt part of the plastic - but not blow the corresponding fuse. This resulted in the plastic running around one of the fusebox blades, queue very odd behaviour where SOME of the items off of one fuse not getting power (those on the now insulated blade) but the others (on the other blade as ate same end of the fuse) still working fine. That one had me scratching my head for a while I can tell you!
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I'm very happy with my AVO shocks - got rate+seat adjustable AVOs on the front of my Spit. and rate adjustables on the back of my 2000.