Mj17
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Everything posted by Mj17
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One thing missing from the instruction so far is a towel. Between Fig. 10 and 11 above, once you've folded the hood fabric forward place the towel over the window before folding the quater light windows in. Stops the really annoying scratches you can get where the plastic queter lights and rear window run against each other while stowed. Towel also gives good service when the hood's up and it's raining...and leaking.
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Yes, you should fit the dust cover over the end of the cylinder. Been a while but from memory the shaped gater that (doesn't) fit in to the bulkhead will be loose on it's own as it's designed to seal over the end of the master cylinder+round dust seal, not just direct to the master cylinder. As for how to slip the round dust seal over the rod - you're just not pushing hard-enough! It takes a good shove and I think I went clevis end first. Try dropping the seal in a mug of hot water for a few minutes to make it a bit more flexible.
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Only problem part of swapping the sealing block is fitting those bloody wooden wedges. All seem to be way over-sized so need a lot of fettling to fit, then you can't get the best of angles to chisle them flush. Doesn't end up looking the best but done mine twice in-situ (once to replace the block/once to rebuild the bottom end) and not had any leaks.
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Only problem part of swapping the sealing block is fitting those bloody wooden wedges. All seem to be way over-sized so need a lot of fettling to fit, then you can't get the best of angles to chisle them flush. Doesn't end up looking the best but done mine twice in-situ (once to replace the block/once to rebuild the bottom end) and not had any leaks.
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Is it advisable? Yes. Wish I'd had one fitted BEFORE I started getting this strange noise...that turned out to be about 10PSI at hot idle :( How do I fit one? Simplest way is a mechanical kit. Mine came from Paddocks - JPS971. This gives you gauge, pipe and T-piece that replaces the oil pressure sender unit under the distributor. I added an eBay special gauge mounting bracket that hangs off of the outside parcel tray mounting bolt.
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Are the jet on your carbs just little red sticks of plastic or a mini metal candle holder? The former are the 'traditional' just and the latter Waxstat ones that reduce emissions/just cause problems. If you've taking the old ones off might be worth converting to standard jets.
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If both float chambers had fuel in them it suggests blocks carb jets. Remove the air filters and dashpot covers and pump the choke a few times (just grab the cable and pull/push a few time). You should see fuel looking down the jet. If not try removing the carb jet from the carb/float chamber and giving it a good (and tasty if you don't have a compressor) blow through.
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Got one fitted to my Mk IV - no issues with fitting/interfearance. Have you got a pump with manual priming leaver under it or anything?
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thescrapman wrote:engineers suplied bearings - Check what they supplied. Probably not the remanufactured tri-metal bearings availabel from Revington TR (see bottom of http://revingtontrltd.cmail1.com/t/ViewEmail/y/F7515226DE7EB269/34718B6166A1B5712A1BF84ACBDD178B).
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I've got (Mk1) MX5 seats in my Mk IV and they are way more comfortable and supportive than originals. The down side is that you do sit an inch or so higher. Not a major problem for a short-ass like me but could be if you're tall. Think you might need some new holes in the floorpan and need to fettle the end of the inner seat runners.
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9234 wrote:I have see mike papworth a name being mentioned on old posts, is he still doing gearboxes? Yep, and still probably the best man for anything either end of the prop shaft.
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9234 wrote:I have see mike papworth a name being mentioned on old posts, is he still doing gearboxes? Yep, and still probably the best man for anything either end of the prop shaft.
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If the car lives outside you may want to keep doing what you're doing actually. It varies from car to car but how well the hood and window do/can be made to fit together varies, with a correponding difference in how dry things stay inside the car. Normally 'flaps inside' is fine but with the door/hood fit on my car I was very glad I went 'flaps out' when leaving it outside as the tail of the hurricane dumps on us last week!
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Fuses are cheap so grab a handful and start of by replacing them all as a matter of course. I've had fuses look fine from the outside and even have continuity when the car's parked but when I popped them out found the wire was no longer soldered to the end cap. Stationary, even idling the wire touched the cap and made the circuit. Driving and going over bumps it would wobble and keep making/breaking constact. While you have the old fuses out check the terminals carefully. I've also had something get the fusebox hot enough to melt part of the plastic - but not blow the corresponding fuse. This resulted in the plastic running around one of the fusebox blades, queue very odd behaviour where SOME of the items off of one fuse not getting power (those on the now insulated blade) but the others (on the other blade as ate same end of the fuse) still working fine. That one had me scratching my head for a while I can tell you!
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I'm very happy with my AVO shocks - got rate+seat adjustable AVOs on the front of my Spit. and rate adjustables on the back of my 2000.
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nang wrote:First of all...throw the light dimmer relay away. >:( Looking good though. Tony. Don't bother throwing the NDR out - if you do you need to find a way to re-join all the wires, just remove the (from memory black) earth lead from the NDR!
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To ID your diff -> http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/infodatabase/diff.html&xsl=infodatabase.xsl
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Anyone had problems with the built-in solinoid sticking on their PowerLite starter - so far only when hot? Very confusing for Frenchmen in the petrol station and very hard to explain in pidgeon French why it took me so long to get from the pay machine/to car/to barrier that I'd slipped in to the next price period :o
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No-one's asked the obvious yet - where do the wires go...?
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Is overdrive worth it - yes BUT if you have a choice of a non-O/D car in better condition vs. a rougher O/D car go for the non-O/D one! I've just come back from a week in Burgundy with my 1300 Spit seeming quite happy at 120kph/3,500RPM in O/D 4th. If I didn't have an O/D that would have meant either 4,250RPM for the same speed or 100kmh for the same RPM - quite a big difference in both speed and volume over 600km. The conversion isn't that hard and a quick look shows 2 on eBay at the moment around £350. You'll need some flavour of clutch, mounting bracket and prop shaft, and may want to just use them as doners for recon exchange but you're still only talking around £1,000 all told - and that's a hell of a lot less than it would cost you to bring the tattier O/D car up to the condition of the nicer non-O/D one.
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In general with the Hi-Torque motors it's a direct replacement for the old motor, so if you needed a spacer with the old one you'll need it with the new one. Certainly the case with my Spitfire.
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Well after about 12 hours on my back under the car I now have; new rod bearings, new main bearings, one new thrust bearing (standard and +5 fitted but I only,had +5 and +10 so replaced +5 and crossed fingers). Only time for a quick, in town traffic test drive and so far 5psi at 1,000rpm, falling to 3bar (44psi) at idle 800rpm idle when warn - so looking promising... As I said at the start I didn't have time to measure the journals but so far crossed fingers looking good (touching more wood than used to build the Mary Rose whilst typing).
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Well started stripping the bottom end down today, partly to see how good/bad it looked and partly to find out what size bearing shells I needed to order and, well mixed news. The good news is that both main and rod surfaces I looked at seems OK - no scoring visible of detectable to the touch. Bearing shells, both rod and main had seen better days though, with the rod shell showing some brass at one end and the main being mostly brass. While they look scored they aren't actually too bad (it's mainly just different colouration of the metal with the one at the top the only one you can feelwith a fingernail), with only the faintest lines you can feel running a fingernail across them. The oil pump doesn't look to good though. Body to piston gap is fine but piston/piston is only just withing tolerance and I can get a feeler gauge under by straight edge with easy so end-float is way out to bounds. Worst of all is the way the parts look though. First off there's clear signs of metal-on-metal running between the shaft and the pump body, along with pitting on the surface of the shaft part of the pump (but this doesn't contact anything so maybe isn't a problem?). There's also clear metal-on-metal scoring between the outer part of the pump and the body, both ends and outside edge. Nothing very clear on the shells to say what size they are - "0448" and "2E 01" on the rod bearing and "M341 010 MG" on the main. Does that sound like +0.010 over-sized? Unfortunately I'm back up to Edinburgh for work first thing Monday so not able to measure the journals themselves (and don't have time to leave it till next weekend to measure/then order parts).
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Thanks Nick, you've pulled me back form running around in circles going "Oh-my-god, oh-my-god, oh-my-god" to just quite sobbing in the corner!
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1 kg/cm (15-20 lb/ft) at 2000RPM rising to 2 kg/cm (30 lb/ft) at 3000RPM hot and not much more at 3500RPM - all while driving, not just reving in neutral. Pressure started to drop below 1 kg/cm as revs dropped below 2000RPM, so I kept them above. For some reason the car was idling at 2000RPM today (thankfully!) but that's and an ignition warning light that keeps coming on very slightly are the least of my worries right now.