SveinHa
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My Webasto roof is badly fitted and without headlining. I think I have to remove most of the Webasto and reinstall in a correct way. The lightopening is 5 mm narrower at back so the roof gets stuck when half opened... Job scheduled to winter time, enjoying a ride with half-Webasto during this summer. Hope some good hints will appear in this thread :-)
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MOT tomorrow.. all new brakes.. need wearing in?
SveinHa replied to Robert Spitfire 1500's topic in Running Gear
Probably a bit late to answer now but drum brakes definitely needs some running in but that is not so important for disc brakes. A couple of years ago I rebuilt the drum brakes on my old Zetor tractor. Had no brakes at all before driving 3-400 meters in third gear with wide open throttle and brakes applied. Smoke pouring out of the drums but they were brilliant after this trip :-) -
I understand that the original rad is a bit on the small side for the GT6 so a change for something larger may be wise anyway. Got MOT today so I went on the road for a small hour with stable temperature all the time with rad fan hotwired to run continously. Next step is to clean the cooling system and maybe also check the water pump.
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Have been thinking quite a bit about my coolingproblem. Since the car still haven't got MOT (hopefully tomorrow, only minor problems left), I haven't been driving too much but if the head gasket is blown and some water is blown out to the overflow bottle, will all of it be sucked in again when the engine cools down, I don't think so? Anyway it does so instead of changing the head gasket, I did some more thinking. No bubbles in the radiator... Did a testdrive today with the electric radiator fan running all the time and no cooling problem 8) Seems like an airflow problem or dirty radiator (looks fine on the outside so some radflush may be useful).
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Those springs are non critical in respect of tension. They only need to be strong enough to close the butterflys in case some linkages break. In my GT6, also lift the acc. pedal but that is not their primary function. In the first picture above, you see a large spring that lifts the acc. pedal and also gives some upforce to the pedal. You can very well tighten the springs a few extra turns, just make sure they are not reaching their endpoint before the butterflys are 100% open. Easy to feel when opening hutterflys by hand.
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Thanks Sheepy. I don't find that kit in my local partshops but I guess my local garage can help. I'll ask them to check when I take the GT6 to MOT test in a few days.
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The cap seems old but the rubber is ok. It had a slight grove due to the static pressure from the spring so I turned the rubber upside down. New cap is on the list for my next order from Rimmer og whoever... Some additional info. Compression is as follows: 1: 12.0 bar 2: 12.2 bar 3: 11.5 bar 4: 11.0 bar 5: 11.5 bar 6: 12.0 bar I have noted that cylinder 4 and 6 is running 30-40°C colder than the rest by measuring the exhaust manifold with an IR thermometer. All sparkplugs look equal suggesting no water is entering the cylinders. Neither the previous owner nor I have any experience on this engine but it it supposed to be newly rebuildt. I got the GT6 late i January and have done LOTS of work to get it ready for MOT. Anyone fancy reading Norwegian, the work done is documented here: http://www.sveinha.com/j16/index.php/bil/triumph-gt6-mk3/gt6-arbeidsblogg
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Thermostat is brand new and compression is 11.0-12.2 bar.
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My GT6 Mk3 with Mk1 engine is loosing quite a bit of water thru the expansion tank. I can drive 20-30 km and it starts to run hot. Sounds like a blown head gasket but I'm wondering if it is likely to be a problem that all external hoses except to and from the radiator is removed. The heater and the pipe running thru the inlet manifold is missing. Anyone with a qualified guess about the missing hoses, can they compromise water circulation in some way making the engine run hot and spit out the water ?
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cook1e wrote:Some people say just run the car and wait until the valves and seats are knackered before worryng about it as it will take a lot of miles for this to happen and chances are something else will break first.I think this is a fairly reasonable approach to the "problem". Additive is cheap so I intend to use it whenever I can but no panic if I should forget it... So far I only have less than one mile in my GT6 but that is about to change... I recently watched an episode of Wheeler Dealers where they converted the head on a Spit to unleaded valve seats and they made big point about it claiming it would be easier to sell and for a higher price. I don't think it is that big deal but if the head for some reason is off I would convert it.
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Maybe this can be of some help: The engine is almost resting on the steering rack.
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nang wrote:Don't use a welding torch around a battery either. A friend of mine, who used to work with large forklift batterys, always turned his back to the battery and wiped the welding torch over the battery before starting to work on it. Better if it explodes behind me than in my face he said... I got a 220 Ah battery in my face a few decades ago. A couple of fragments of the battery casing went thru my upper lip and got buried deep in my gum. Classic mistake: The battery had beed charged over night and I made a spark when disconnecting the charger...
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Moving slightly away from topic now but it is always fun to discuss GT6 8) All 4 of my carbs looks equal. None have connections for crankcase ventilation and choke and nozzle adjust looks like this: As requested, a few more pictures of my engine:
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The mechanical fuel pump is still installed but not in use as it gave far too high pressure so the carbs overflowed. I intend to remove it and blind that hole. I now have an electrical pump that is speced to 0.1 bar/1.45 PSI but in real life it is more like 0.15 bar/2.17 PSI but that is ok. I'll have a couple of pictures for you tonight :-)
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I have one spare set of inlet manifold with two carbs but I think all the carbs are equal. They all have a small choke damper that lifts the piston/needle a bit to enrichen the mixture. Nozzle adjustment is below the carb thru the float chamber. I haven't noted the vent connections on either of these...