john2502
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Everything posted by john2502
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Frank, use: http://www.blackcircles.com/ a quick search brings up 4 brands for that size, 3 with a T rating one with N. Great service from them before
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haha, it's not that's what is weird, its a fairly standard looking stainless system but it really gets in the way, like i say it may be because my garage space is....er...limited (parked the car up close to the wall on one side with the intention of doing one side at a time but just ended up doing both overlapping due to waiting for parts. ah well, it'll get there!
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I've tried but the exhaust is in the way and didn't fancy taking that off and then possibly finding I need to take another thing off to get that outta the way. Haha. Doesn't help I don't have a lot of room to work on this side in the single garage. Cheers though.
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Cheers John, will do that. Am i being dense or is it much easier to attach the track rod end to the steering arm once the car is down under load, or is that totally wrong? Must admit it has worried me not being able to get this bolt out of the lower wishbone, got a new lower one with the superflex in ready to go, but might be a pain to get in if the chassis mounting bracket, or chassis itself is slightly off. I guess i'll have to cross that if/when it comes to that.
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Ok, so got a couple of hours yesterday on the car, so more work on the second side and fitted the stainless hoses to the LHS stainless hose fitted, i assume this looks right, all seemed ok and was very easy: so just the Track Rod end onto steering arm and then ARB once other side is done. More removing of suspension bushes from the upper wishbones and sanded/painted them: Also fitted the races and inner bearings & seal to the newly sanded and painted hub and put the new disc on with nuts to correct torque: Bolt on the rear of the lower RH wishbone was still eluding me, i think it's slightly bent, so i resorted to cutting through one side, the inner side is more difficult to get to, hope this doesnt mean it'll be a struggle to get the new lower wishbone in. you can see in this pic it looks a bit off
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So bits are off the other side, will get that troublesome bolt off tomorrow (will probably take about 2mins now) Old parts of other side to be painted:
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BrendanD wrote:Just fitted a 123Tune to my Mk3 GT6. will post experiences in due course... Very interested to hear your feedback on this Brendan as i currently have a 123Tune unit which i'll hopefully get to install around Spring time. Did you get your rev counter converted or switch it to an aftermarket one for the electric feed? Would also be interested to know what curve you are using and find works. cheers John
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rotoflex wrote:I've been thinking for a while that it would be nice to have them in heavy-duty plastic, like that which now lines wheel wells of cars. Easy to wash, no rattles, won't deteriorate when wet. I've been sort of stuck as to what to scavenge the plastic from. Sounds a great idea. Would be interested in these. Probably go for the aluminium ones for now i reckon
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rotoflex wrote:I've been thinking for a while that it would be nice to have them in heavy-duty plastic, like that which now lines wheel wells of cars. Easy to wash, no rattles, won't deteriorate when wet. I've been sort of stuck as to what to scavenge the plastic from. Sounds a great idea. Would be interested in these. Probably go for the aluminium ones for now i reckon
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rotoflex wrote:Spark plug removal & replacement around the distributor is made tolerable with a wobble-type socket extension on the socket. I found the "normal" one (in pic) ok, didn't seem too difficult with the distributor there, meh. Was nice to have a such a quick and easy 5 min job to do, oil change was the same took no time, far as i can see there isn't any excuse for not doing the regular servicing stuff yourself as it takes no time and is pretty cheap on these cars!
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So as i will hopefully soon be finished with the front suspension/brakes on the MK3 I was starting to think about ordering the engine valances, old original ones were looking a bit worn so what's the general consensus aluminium vs original style? As far as i can see they cost about the same, i suspect original will not last as long but have less possible rattle than aluminium ones.
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So as i will hopefully soon be finished with the front suspension/brakes on the MK3 I was starting to think about ordering the engine valances, old original ones were looking a bit worn so what's the general consensus aluminium vs original style? As far as i can see they cost about the same, i suspect original will not last as long but have less possible rattle than aluminium ones.
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Duh, thanks Richard, you know when the answer is right there and need someone else to point the obvious out! haha. That's an hour and a half of frustration and pondering i wont get back. Cheers.
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Cheers for the help guys, i got it sorted so i was totally happy with it Saturday morning, so all good. Unfortunately the stainless brake hoses aren't through yet (awaiting new rad cowl which was out of stock) so to keep myself busy i replaced the spark plugs and then started on the other side of the car. Once I've got the wheel on i will check for movement as you say junkuser. So a few photos from the weekend, New brake caliper on with the fixed part of the line (and bracket to fix to the flexi part) on: New plugs in: I got a lot of the other side off and started to sand and paint the hub, caliper bracket and dust shield. One bolt that always seems to be a bugger to get out is the rear lower wishbone one (see picture). Is there a trick to this, as there isnt enough room to get a hammer/drift there to give it the initial push and my pliers aren't having any joy, other side was a "challenge" to get out too, the chassis is just in the way! (i have tried taking the chassis mount off but can't get to the nut with any of my tools. Spent about an hour and a half trying and left it there in the end.
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Gave it some oil and compressed it, got the split pin in but still seems a tad on the tight side (the castle nut I mean). Hub seems to spin fairly freely, how easily should they be to spin with your hand (I know this is difficult to describe), should it keep spinning once you take your hand away for example? Might take a video tomorrow morning.
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Good thinking about cutting in half, hopefully this will mean they sit perfectly, I'd rather ask and get it right first time. Have seen some discussion about giving the seal a coating of engine oil. is this recommended? Mike, I don't know it might be closer than you think, I will be converting to CV's at the rear and a 123 tune ignition will be going on soon after (that's the plan anyway). Then being undersealed/dinitrol'ed.
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Cheers Mike, yeah lets see some pics! I'll race ya! (although i suspect you will win as my progress if fairly...snail-like. Lovely looking MK1 by the way, would love one at some point, they're just so rare though. I have put a new felt seal in yeah, one from canleys, looks exactly like the picture, probably needs a bit of a squish so will do this when i re-fit the hub, thanks! I just cant wait to get back in and take it out with the new setup, and i still have the other side and the rear to do (rotoflex doughnut has a split so will bite the bullet now and go for CVs)
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Right, couple of hours last night so a few progress photos Koni shock and spring on and then the caliper mounting bracket, dust shield and steering arm on the back: Then did the hub and disc: Question, Doing the castle nut up finger tight doesn't go far enough to line up with the hole in the stub, I'm going to try refitting the hub on the weekend, bearings seem well seated and spins nicely, any tips for doing this? I don't want to over-tighten of course. I believe it's finger tight then back a flat or two to get the correct end float (cant remember the number off the top of my head). Anyway, nearly there, just the brake caliper, pads and new stainless line to go! ....then the other side!
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Took the front one off but didnt have a socket that would get to the rear one without the sump getting in the way. Got it there in the end with some wiggling.
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Excellent, i did think they felt like they were seated properly where they were so all good then! Next jobs 1. To somehow get a bolt through the rear lower wishbone bush (difficult to get perfectly lined up due to the chassis/brake lines in the way 2. tighten stub axle onto vertical link (didn't have a plain nut the right size on Saturday) 3. Bolt on the new shock and spring 3. Install the inner bearings and then bolt the disc onto the hub 4. Install the steering arm, track rod end, hub, caliper mounting bracket and caliper etc
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JensH wrote:Bearing/racers as far in as possible; you can see the lip just down under the outer bearing surface - thats as far as they can go So just to clarify, ideally they should go in about another 6-7mm so the red and blue arrows in this pic line up? thanks
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£24.50 from canleys, and they look very well made! Said they were made in Coventry. Like you say though I'd yours aren't worn or bent then they should be fine. A few garages must have those race installer kits which look very easy to use so I was tempted to just take it there and give them a fiver to do it, but just ended up doing it myself. Found this video useful to see how to do it for anyone learning: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVtU6Q2-Z4g&sns=em
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Right, a bit more progress yesterday, although not a load, kept getting interrupted as we had family round at my parents. I know I know, how anti-social of me! :) So firstly out with the old bearings/racers: Then as suggested pushed the superflex sleeves in slightly so they're even each side, took about a second to do, so the new bits ready to go onto the car!: Got the uppers in fine, had to take the front chassis mount off to get the lower one in, then realised the rear one we'd put a smaller bolt in (this one is a bugger to get lined up!), any suggestions? There's not enough room to even get my shortest screw drive in, and chassis mount bolt is difficult to get to due to sump. Hmm. Doesn't feel like a lot got done but ah well. Here it is: Finished by starting to install the new racers in the hub, how far in do they go? Should they be flush the with lip inside in this picture? Or is this far enough?:
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Sounds like a lot of waiting Mike, but sounds like they'll be very well protected and it'll last a long time so worth it in the end. Good luck with your project too!
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Cheers for the tip, never seen that stuff before, I'd probably just cut it, I assume that would be possible. The rest of the wiring has the split correlated stuff.