john2502
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Everything posted by john2502
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Sounds like your starting in the right place checking/cleaning the battery connections, I use Vaseline to protect these but I'm sure there are a few alternatives. Trying a jump start will give you an idea if the battery is ok (as will taking it to halfords for them to try one of their battery testers on) the starter solenoid may also be a culprit, especially if it's a shiny new looking reproduction item. I had this on my mustang that a reproduction solenoid would sometimes cause it just to click while trying to start, As only very occasional i used to disconnect and re-connect the batter which jumped it into life after (easy as i had one of those quick battery dis-connectors on it).
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As others have said its the vertical link that really needs the inspection and will show wear. I decided to go trunnionless from Canleys when I did my rebuild so I never had to even think about them again which is nice. Little bit pricey (not loads more than 2 new vertical links though) http://www.canleyclassics.com/suspension-steering-and-brakes/trunnionless-front-suspension-kit/ Although well maintained trunnions/VL's will of course work well.
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Order from Canleys, decent quality made in the UK.
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As Wim says felt seal would be the first thing I'd investigate, If replaced, like mine i assume it would have been a load thicker than the one you took out of course.
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Yeah I didn't buy the mounts, took a quick picture for you, isn't great as its all dark outside and I couldn't get my phone in the right place. Yes I believe that's all you need to do. Handles great, I probably don't push it to full potential cos I just use it as a work commuter 3 or so days a week but feels really planted.
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You got a picture of how/where on the bulkhead you mounted it Don? just for my own curiosity.
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Not got experience as luckily i have an original pump working well (touch wood!) but i had a look a while ago at what I'd go for if this ever went as decent quality originals are hard to find and repro ones seem a bit hit and miss. The HUCO ones seem to get good reviews and say they don't need a regulator. Seem to run at a suitable pressure and provide enough flow (i think a few on here use them if I'm not mistaken) but i would suggest fitting an inertia cut off switch for safety reasons. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360758769989?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Edit: oops, Clive got there before me!
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It can be done without the use of the chassis brackets, I have these fitted to my MK3 rotoflex GT6 (although now has CV conversion also) http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/products.php?id=257968&item=8040-1020 I got JY classics to fit them though as i wasn't confident doing the CV conversion myself (and work and other things got in the way time-wise) so not 100% sure on what small modification is required, I believe the top bush needs some modification and that is all but I'd wait for someone more knowledgeable to confirm this before buying.
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Looking great! Looks forward to seeing the progress, that's a good design for the brace to keep all the gaps spot on. C'mon Shaun, crack a smile (first picture!) haha :)
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Gary has summed it up well I think. You do seem to get what you pay for to be honest. Koni are reported to be by far the best, got them on all 4 corners of the GT6. Ride is very nice and could tell when fitting they were good quality. But pricey though. As has been said Gas and Spax are also used by some and seem to have ok results, I think some said the adjuster screws on the Spax caused problems if I remember rightly? Heard some bad things about the black standard type replacements, Buy cheap buy twice and all that.
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Not seen a spitfire with them on but a quick google brings the image up on this page (green car), http://www.totallytriumph.net/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_count&om=419&forum=DCForumID4 I had white letter tyres on my mustang, seems to be much more of an American muscle/classics kinda of thing. This place were recommended highly by the mustang lot, not used them myself http://www.northhantstyres.com
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Haynes Manual and the Autobooks manual i have both say 90-100lb/ft so 120nm is pretty close yeah (88lb/ft)
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Looking good! 8)
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As has been mentioned when done I'd take it to get a 4 wheel alignment sorted. Shouldn't be too pricey and will make the car handle like a dream! Good luck with the rest of the rebuild. J
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Have got the 123Tune on my MK3 GT6. Have done about 3000miles on it and it hasn't missed a beat and runs very smoothly. As Tim said, main advantage is the lack of moving parts and availability of good quality cap and rotor arms as opposed to what seems like a bit of a lottery sometimes on the standard replacements. Can't help with which curve but I'd give the tune version a big thumbs up! yes it is a bit pricey but for me it's worth it as it's a fit and forget item. Had the mechanical rev counter converted to keep the original look, here's it on the car:
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Seem to remember seeing a post on the TSSC Facebook page a while ago they had 4 pot callipers now available if my memory is correct. Might be worth a look? Can't remeber price etc I'm afraid. Edit: found the link, hopefully works https://m.facebook.com/1391249377782323/photos/pb.1391249377782323.-2207520000.1422304344./1557313997842526/?type=1&source=42
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Good to hear, expect someone with a factory workshop manual to hand will chime in but both my Haynes Manual and Autobooks Manual say 90-100lbft.
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Tinweevil wrote:If memory serves the retaining nut is a nylock which can when new grip tight enough to turn the stub. Fit a plain nut instead and torque to the correct setting then change to a nylock and torque again. Same trick can be of use on track rod ends and the like. This is what I did, got a plain nut and used that then fitted the nylon one. I got it pretty much there and then once the VL was fitted to the car on the wishbones tightened up the final bit. Both my manuals say 90-100lb/ft
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JY Classics did mine last year, not sure if the pics will help at all but anyway
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Have you tried Wins International which is on Charlwoods Road in EG, worth sending an email as its a bit of an Alladins cave of triumph parts.
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That's where my Mk3 GT6 is at the moment! Parent's garage in EG. Grew up there. Am doing my winter servicing there due to lack of garage at my place. Unfortunately i need my rear wing and fuel tank as the car doesn't seem to go very far without them....
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I usually just send them a quick email if an item is out of stock to find out. Or call. Yeah it's a bit of a "Hot topic" with these cars. But most likely because of the dangers that can occur if this happens at high speed. As it has been said the standard setup with a good quality set of vertical links will work fine if regularly oiled with the correct oil in the correct way. I just fancied a solution that I didn't have to keep remembering.
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I went for the trunnionless last year and very happy with it so far. Fit and forget which is always a nice phrase with classics!!
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Can't help with the part number deciphering I'm afraid but in case you need, this is where I got my bearings from for the GT6. If not, good luck with the search. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/141500902202?nav=SEARCH Worth mentioning they came quicker than eBay said too in my case
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Think this what you're looking for for the front http://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF375-1321KSS