john2502
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Everything posted by john2502
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Cheers! Should have some more pics/updates early next week as i should have a morning to work on the car saturday! Time to start putting the new bits back on the car! (well, one side of it anyway)
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Yeah hope so. Haha, good spot. I did it with the saw while cutting the bit of wood that I used for the super flex bushes (last pic) to avoid damaging the sleeve on the rough vice surface.
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242 wrote:Did you get new hoses as well? RR ps I'm begining to think the only money to be made in triumphs is selling bits for them! Yeah stainless braided hoses from canleys was the plan, need to order them still.
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Freebird wrote:Wow, Father Christmas obviously thought you had been a good boy. Good to see you got poly wishbone bushes, the rubber ones on the market today are totally rubbish. He must have done yeah! Yes had to be superflex after hearing so many great things! They look amazingly well made and were soooo easy ton install.
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Superflex bushes being installed, i found the easiest way was to cut the ends of the rubber bushes off with a stanley knife and then use the "socket method" of removing them. I had to use a couple of nuts as the smaller socket to push on the bushes as my vice is only a small one and wouldnt quite go wide enough to fit the smaller socket in as well. Must say this was a pretty easy job to do, i got a pair of original lower wishbones as the arm on one of mine was a bit bent and wins intl is only 5mins down the road from me (great service). ends of the bush cut off: then the removal: gets the bush about 2/3 of the way out so can then use the vice to clamp it and wiggle it the rest of the way: et voila!: Installing the new superflex bushes:
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Well thought i'd share some of the photos etc of my rebuild of the suspension and brakes on the emerald green GT6 I bought a few months ago. Realized the brake calipers were a bit sticky and that the system could probably do with a refresh/update as much of it was original (including original 40 year old bushes it appears!). Also wanted to install the canleys trunnionless kit and some of the rubber on balljoint, trackrod ends etc were looking a bit worn. So i decided to "cut my teeth" doing this as i am a bit of a beginner really. So with the car in my parent's garage i started to take things apart with my brother (in the pictures). note: I am keeping all the original bits etc if myself or a subsequent owner ever wants to return it to standard. brake caliper removal: Split pin out: Hub off: dust shield off: Shock removed: Wishbones and VL off: So then onto the exciting bit, starting to get the new shiny bits to put on! new bits!: Koni dampers fitted onto springs (very easy with the safeshox compressors: Painted Canley VLs:
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Cheers Nick, think I'll do that. Just realised my torque wrench only goes up to 80lb/ft. Hmm.
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Cheers guys. Yeah spring and shock before VL is a good shout as that'll make it easier access wise thinking about it.
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Realised after I wrote it, then Anti-Roll bar yeah, guess I should probably reattach that! Thanks about the spring, cheers.
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Ok, so am nearing the point where I am starting to reassemble the first side of the front suspension. Got all the bits, trying to think of the best order of doing things , I know most needs torquing up properly under load but just talking about the reassembled procedure. Pretty much a total rebuild. Was thinking, 1. Stub axle, upper ball joint and trunnionless bottom joint onto vertical link 2. Inner wishbone bolts onto car and then vertical link onto wishbone outers 3. Steering arm, calliper mounting bracket and dust shield on 4. Spring/shock on 5. Hub and disc on with bearings etc 6. Brake calliper on, pads in and attach line 7. Bleed brakes 8. Attach steering arm to track rod end 9. Put wheel on, lower car and tighten all up to correct torque. Does that basic procedure sound right? Thanks for the help. John
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When doing the nut at the back up (which my haynes manual says is to 90-100lb/ft) how do you clamp the vertical link/stub axle without damaging either? So where would you clamp the vice to? Thanks. Jonn
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regarding glass filters, probably not as much of an issue on triumphs due to the layout of the engine bay, but i had one fitted to my last classic, by the PO, where the carb was mounted on top of the engine (american v8) so the flexible fuel line runs up to the top of the engine and there is therefore risk of going over a large bump/pothole etc and these filters smashing against the engine spraying fuel everywhere as it runs on and the pump keeps pumping fuel through. for this reason, and just to keep my paranoia at bay i avoid them, not so much of an issue if fitted before the pump and again, on triumphs not so much of an issue due to clearance i guess.
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Slimboyfat wrote: Made in Coventry (smile) Thanks for a great service!
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Cheers for the replies guys, very helpful. And thanks for noting about the hole position, the stubs are from canleys so i suspect they will be fine but i will bear it in mind.
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Hi guys. Quick question, new stub axles going into new vertical links (well, canley trunnionless ones) Easiest way to fit these, does it need a whack or anything to get it into the taper or just do the nut up at the back? Any tips? Thanks in advance.
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I'm sure I've read somewhere bad things about the 3 rivet friction plates and to go for either an old Borg and Beck one or a 4 rivet version to avoid the risk of shearing. Canley ones seem to have 4 from the picture. No personal experience just parroting what I've read before http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product/classicclutches.html&xsl=product.xsl
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I haven't asked no, just was interested as noticed them while browsing.
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Just wondered if anyone had any experience of them as they're marked as new on the Quiller Triumph website and i haven't found any threads with peoples experiences. Am going to be converting the GT6 to CV anyway but just wondered, out of interest, if anyone had trialed them on their cars yet.
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Just out of interest, what's the general consensus of which is more reliable/long lasting (ignoring amp rating and price for now) Higher output lucas straight swap, or re-wire a denso one in? or something else? Dont need one just wondering
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Thanks guys, think i'll bit the bullet and go for the programmable one and then set the curve. Interesting idea about getting the tach converted. will look into that, cheers.
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Hi Bruce, no nothing wrong with the current dizzy/points/condenser etc just thinking ahead of the game as i should have some time over xmas/new year and electronic ignition is on my list for when i want to be using it a lot and through winter. Cheers Nick. I think general consensus is along those lines in that i think it would be a struggle and hassle to get it running with one of the standard curves so just go for mappable and get that set right. From what i can see, pros and cons of 123 on a GT6: Pros: very reliable (seemingly more forgettable than the current electronic ones except megajolt as its a complete replacement of the mechanical parts of the dizzy) maintenance free good quality bosch cap+rotors readily available, Cons: no electronic tach version unless you send it to 123 direct in holland for refurb, price (230 for 16 curve, 355 for programmable, not including new tach etc). Is there an electric tach with the demister and indicator lights on as per the current one? Not overly keen on losing the original look of this.
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Am struggling to decide whether to go for the cheaper 16 curves version or go for the fully programmable one. I guess if you really want it to run great then the programmable one is the way to go, but is it worth it for the gain? basically, is one of the 16 a pretty good match for a standard GT6 MK3? Does anyone know what electronic rev counter would fit a GT6 MK3? SC Parts which stock the 123 systems quoted £140 for a rev counter! not even sure if that has the warning indicators on it (forgot to ask).
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there also seems to be a lot of cheap and unreliable points/condensers about there at the moment so figured just go for this and avoid that all together.
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Not asked them directly about a mechanical drive tacho 16 curves version, i assumed this would do the job as it lists GT6 as an option http://www.limora.com/en/zundanlage-131759.html I seem to remember seeing threads a while ago where guys with GT6's had used the 123 system and it seems to be highly recommended for reliability/setup etc. I'd just prefer the plug and play version if so. No Bruce nothing wrong with the current setup, just want to use the car a lot and all year round so electronic ignition as a preventative measure seemed the best option while i'm gunna do some work on the car anyway. Let's face it, breaking down in winter isn't exactly barrel of laughs.
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When i contacted them direct he gave me a price for one for a GT6 for the 16 ones and for fully programmable ones. making me think it will be ok for a GT6 running either. Hmm, more research needed. Anyone with one of these on a GT6?