thehanko
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Everything posted by thehanko
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Woot woot. Great news it's working. Now get out and use it!
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I read it the same as you Harry, but this would mean it can't be switch or fuse as then the front 'side lights' wouldn't work either. But the switch can connect the blue red and not the red green which would cause all to be off. Fuse could cause all to be off. Earths could cause some to be off. The join you mention makes sense as well for some to be off - especially If its one of those horrid black scrolled things which fail willy nilly. But we really need clarification on the side lights situation from the origional poster.
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932 wrote: if you read a few posts further down though it says that the rear lights are not working either. Correct Tail lights not working but does state side lights are working ( this gives entirely different symptoms I.e earthing issues as opposed to no lights working which implies power supply issues). As clarified this needs to be checked so we can assertain which circuits are and are not working. My guess is that the side lights are not working either and it is indeed the switch or fuse. I'm betting switch. But until we clarify what is and isn't working there isn't much point guessing.
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Is no one else reading that the side lights are working!!!! They get power from the same fuse.
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I can vouch I've had that work, but yes not being able the achieve step one does limit it's use to you lol. If you can't pump it up hard at all I would haven to think faulty master cylinder or badly bulging flexis. I bloody hate brakes that won't play the game fairly! Last trouble I had was with a bulging flexi, I had visually inspected them with an assistant pumping before, but this time ran my hand along them when under pressure and found I had missed it by eye but once I knew it was there it was really obvious :B
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1381 wrote:b) required an extra oil feed that robs the crankshaft bearings of oil ??). Is this really an issue? Pressure relief valves bypass the oil flow that can't be utilised, if not providing sufficient oil flow for both then the pressure would drop and Larry lime light would rear his ugly head. So you would know quite quickly if it was robbing you crank.
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So, power for front park, rear tail, rear plate and all dash lights come from the same fuse and power supply from the light switch. Is fuse getting power (none of the above working if not)? Is the switch faulty? I.e providing a lights circuit but not a park circuit (easy for these switches to do. Bit none of this is at fault if your side lights are working as stated. If your side lights are working then the likely reason for all dash lights and all tail lights to not work when side lights are working, is earths. But also check the connection to the rear lights in the passenger a pillar/dash area. Just to confirm (sorry if this is to basic) when you say side lights you do mean the minor seperate globes in the same housing as your front indicator. As in not low beam. Should be park, low and high Yes - no tail lights is an mot fail. If they are there they must work. Yes checking a fuse in place is fine using continuity, but again if Parker's are on the fault is further on. But when checking the fuse make sure your checking on the clippy things not just on the fuse - this tells you that the fuse is ok AND it's got good connection to the clips - but it would take alot of corrosion for this to be an issue. I would turn the dial on your multimeter and start checking where current is getting to. As if you have current somewhere you can discount everything upstream if there. I would also get a jump lead direct from negative on the battery and earth a dash light directly ( clamp it to the metal bulb holder casing) to see if they come on. In two tests you thus check if a) current is reaching the bulb and b) if the earth is an issue. It narrows things down hugely in just a few min.
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3141 wrote: That's great thank you. Apologies for having to ask and not successfully finding on the Search facility. What an elegant solution, it really tidies the front up and gets rid of the (in my opinion) ugly under riders. As far as fitting to a fibreglass bonnet is concerned, I would have thought the stiffening frame could be bonded in easily enough. Thank you all for your replies. Yep shouldnt be an issue to modify a glass bonnet with what ever you need. you could either fix the steel components into the bonnet or attach plates to the bonnet to allow the steel system to bolt on. reinforcing glass stuff is very simple, create a void or stringer in the direction needed and glass over it.
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Haha, sweet! I did the same job twice to two different cars just this weekend! its a bugger - and then oh so simple. For all those with similar problems, try this, You adjust the split pin thing (the only link between the latch and the handle) up or down so that at unlocked position the link it moves (which is half way along the handle) is fully down - its pin seated nicely into the white plastic notch, then check that in the unlocked position this link should now have slide up and out so the handle can be pulled without effecting the link - pin clear of the notch). IN both cars i did on saturday The split pin had to be pushed as far into the grippers as possible (down as far as possible)
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Haha, sweet! I did the same job twice to two different cars just this weekend! its a bugger - and then oh so simple. For all those with similar problems, try this, You adjust the split pin thing (the only link between the latch and the handle) up or down so that at unlocked position the link it moves (which is half way along the handle) is fully down - its pin seated nicely into the white plastic notch, then check that in the unlocked position this link should now have slide up and out so the handle can be pulled without effecting the link - pin clear of the notch). IN both cars i did on saturday The split pin had to be pushed as far into the grippers as possible (down as far as possible)
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As the side lights are working I would expect a poor earth. The dash bulbs earth through the body of the gauges which are mounted in wood... so you need to earth them all back to the loom. The light hanging behind the dash should be earthed into the loom anyway, so i would be questioning general earth connections behind the dash. There should be connections to the fire wall etc from the loom from memory. run a temp wire to the earth on the battery and secure it to the back of a gauge and see if it lights up (assuming you don't have a multimeter to use for testing). Many people try to simply earth their lights to the body instead of through the loom and this will always result in more problematic connections in the future. I seem to remember a connector in the passenger side foot well which earth the dash loom which I ran through the fire wall to join where I have connected the battery earth to the body.
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How does that work? They both conduct heat they are both silver to reflect radiated heat? I'm not having a go just trying to understand. For example when camping if I want to keep a handle cool when flames are kicking over it I wrap it in alloy foil and the foil stays cool to touch as does the handle under it.
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Bugger the more expensive coolant I splashed out for specifically says using oat technology and doesn't have any of the horrible (read important) nitrates and silicates etc. Time to buy some more...
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The top up of water will be fine for a short while with the other coolant. The ethyl glycol by that artical will be fine for metals but perhaps not for silicon although it says it depends on the individual product. I would contact the supplier help line.
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Ok just found out. Oat or organic acid technology versions can attack silicon and solder such as in classic rads and heater matrix. Don't think I've ever noticed a non glycol coolant. Will have to keep my eyes out. http://www.v8register.net/FilesV8WN/Concerns%20with%20antifreeze%20for%20classic%20cars%20090310.pdf An interesting read.
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junkuser wrote:If the label says it is propylene glycol it will be safe to use. The colour is iffy to rely on as some propylene glycol coolants were actually pink I have heard. So what is the other active ingredient? What does it cause and how? Not having a go, just interested as my research failed to find anything.
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I've never been able to find any supportive evidence other than rumor that one is or isn't suitable. Just people saying its bad but no details as to why. Most manufacturers simply provide a 2 yr and a 5 yr version. When I looked into it even the manufacturers of the coolant were saying the best one for classic cars was the 5 yr red. The only differences stated between the two were life span for serviceing. The whole concept of mixed metals coolant for modern cars being bad for classics strikes me as odd seeing as we have mixed metals anyway. As long as its rust inhibiting and glycol rated to the temps you need then crack on IMHO.
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bodders1 wrote: I've never really understood this piece of received wisdom. A 55W quartz-halogen bulb draws exactly the same current as a 55W tungsten bulb so the current passing through the switch is the same. So why does the change to halogen bulbs necessitate adding relays to the circuit? There *are* other good reasons to add relays such as 1) doing a lot more night driving (e.g. RBRR) when the headlights will be on for considerably longer periods than normal 2) putting higher wattage bulbs into the lights (of questionable legality in Britain but quite a lot of people have done it (whistle) ) 3) adding additional spotlamps on the main beam circuit. bodders1 your right, the system will handle the same draw, the problem is that the lights are a high draw circuit running through a crap switch - when this switch corrodes along with the wires after say the 4th decade (or 4th week is more likely :'( thanks lucas! ) the resistance increases and so does the heat. The benefit in the relay system is lack of voltage drop resulting in much much better lights - doesn't matter how good the new halogens are if they are getting poor supply, they will perform poorly. Running relays on lights is good practice regardless of the wattage of your bulbs. However if raising the wattage as alot do changes it from good practise to 'crazy not to'.
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That's worth doing anyway, one of the earlier posts stated it as the same circuit so it would be a good way to determine if the circuit is down or more a local issue. Have fun. I kind of enjoy fault finding / hate it!
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I would test it with a temp 12v supply then go there. Then at least you know if that half of the system is working.
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I don't know if the rhd might effect it, but on my vehicle and wiring diagram white is power supply, white/brown is earth. Can you confirm the colour of your 'other' wire? On mine the center wire (supply) is white and outer wire (earth/sensor) is white/brown. If having issues you can always grab a new 12v off the ignition so you can ensure you have oil pressure until you can solve the origional loom long term.
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It's an unfused supply from the white circuit direct from the ignition switch. The brown and white should be dead - this is th wire that earths the supply through the sensor/sender switch on the block. Hth
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from memory when i looked at steering racks they were quite cheap??? £60 comes to mind.
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I don't think it would be bad with the panel fitted, i can stick mine in temporarily and check it if you like.
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Yeah nice, could get fused relays which would stop any additional clutter.