I bought a new control box for my 1969 1300 TC. It is in my car now and performing well.
However. By mistake, I bought a 25Amp model instead of a 22Amp.
Will this overheat the commutator on the dynamo at high rev's?

Thank you!

Thanks all

Rick Shaw

TR6: Fit fibreglass spoiler and start to initiate the repair of the hardtop I bought last year. 

2.5 Saloon: Its being repaired at the moment...so nothing for me. When back, though it needs an engine rebuild.

A few months ago I bought a windscreen seal for the Spitz and last weekend I successfully fitted the laminated screen. Hooray! But I don't have the chrome finisher (it's in two halves I think for the MkIV/1500) and so far haven't seen any for sale.

How much of an issue is it? Does it affect the security of the screen/seal, or is it purely cosmetic?

Can I use one labelled as MkI-III  or does it have to be the MkIV/1500 one? Or are there any generic ones that are suitable?

VMTIA

Graham

Has anyone run these carbs on a 2000/gt6/vitesse? I'm thinking I'll start with a set of the later tr6 needles or maybe tr7 needles as that engine was the same capacity. I don't expect any to be perfect but wondered if someone might point me towards a good starting point.

The flaps move but I can't leave it up or down just midway.

I recently discovered that the propshaft on my 13/60 jad the straps removed from the propshaft. This settled the cause of the knocking noise when I start moving. Now Im going to order them and I have a couple of questions. 

How many straps do I actually need because the parts catalouge is saying eight  but there is only 3 in the diagram.

Second question, is the diagram showing the correct way to install them 'L' shape only? 

Im attaching a picture to show what Im referring to. The straps are marked as number 3. 

Thanks

Christian

The shaft etc was a used one that had been sitting around for years. I think there's a film of baked on engine oil causing the tightness. Any suggestions to remove it please?. I was thinking maybe Caustic Soda for the steel shaft?.

Any ideas?, would be great.

Thanks, Dave

It failed, valve springs shattered on day 2, dropping the valve into the top of the piston, which then drove the valve guide out of the head smashing the rocker arm on it's way out. 😞

A swift engine change, with assistance from Mik Davies saw us back on the road in time for the 10CR and the spare engine sat on the engine stand in the garage until October 2019 waiting for attention.

I stripped the engine and the "dings" in the bore made me think that it was perhaps beyond saving, but after taking the block to my local trusted engineering company (William Browns of Halifax) we concluded that a +060 over-bore would save it....

Because I'd been paid my bonus at work in 2019 I had a bit of budget to spare, so I decided I'd rebuild to "vanity spec" not just a plain old rebuild.

New rods, pistons and a fast-road cam from newmans (with new high spec followers as well)

I matched the piston+rod+pin weights to within about 2 grams and had the head "sorted" by Peter Burgess to his "fast road" spec.

I measured the combustion volume and had the head skimmed to bring the CR up to 10.2:1 

Duplex vernier timing gear added, a rebuilt dizzy from H&H....

I got the engine in and running in April 2020

Since then I've added a 4:2:1 exhaust manifold and had the twin SU carb bodies rebushed and I've rebuilt the carbs and fitted them.

Sadly due to "the situation" it's not done enough miles since then to even be considered run in.

Hopefully back on the road in the next few weeks.

Is the 123 dizzy worth getting. I thinking of the standard one. Can't see the point of the programmable one as its a standard engine setup. 

What are your thoughts on them. 

Danny

Also are the Runners the same?

Thanks 

I need to replace the water pump which is just starting to leak and wondered if you could advise if I need the viscous or non viscous type ?.

I also need to replace the timing cover and will check the timing chain and sprockets with a view to replacing them if required.

If these are replaced and the car is kept immobile and in gear, is it safe to assume that the timing will be unaltered and will not need to be reset ?

Also, which antifreeze do you recommend (UK - winter stored in garage)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

HELP!

I have a steadily growing collection of second-hand radiators and starting to get a trifle fed up. I currently have three OEM ones; one of which has a water-tight core but the fins are disappearing like ice in the sun, another has a decent core but rotten side plates (awaiting repair), and the third (finally received yesterday after a four month wait due to Covid) looks good but has a hole in it!

So, what to do? I am told cooling on the 1500 is a bit marginal, so is it worth (on an otherwise standard engine) upgrading? Do I go for yet another used OEM radiator, a re-manufactured standard one, or something like this (3 Row Aluminium Radiator For 1979 1980 Triumph Spitfire 1.5L Manual | eBay which hopefully is a library pic as the connections are all wrong) or something like this (Upgraded 2 Row Core Racing Radiator For Triumph Spitfire MK3 MK4 1500 1964-1980 9140992388722 | eBay - which at least looks like it might fit...)

Does anyone have any experience of these aluminium jobs, are they any good?

As always money is an issue, if I spend any more money on this I might have to start selling daughters or carving off body parts... 

VMTIA

Graham

Can any one help. It worked OK before. And you smart arses don't need to say I should have made a diagram or took a photo - I know that now.

Cheers  

a post came up from morris owners neat cif cleaner soft nail brush bit (not a lot) elbow grease came up loverly finish with baby oil try it on you dirty vinyl seats