Herald Hood webbing retaining plate

[Antonnick]

I am just starting to install a new Mohair hood to my Herald - just laying it over the newly painted frame makes the car look really good.

However the webbing straps at the rear tub were always flapping about and I cannot see where they may have been fitted using the retaining plates i.e there are no tell tale holes already. The manual does not give any actual details. At the moment I intend to bolt or rivet them to the rear tub but is there a proper position does anybody know? 

[Kevin R]

Assuming you got your hood direct from the Trimmers you could ring them and ask for advice but they tend to be very helpful regardless.  Most of them offer a fitting service so will have experience of this problem.

When I got my Spitfire hood the instructions were very brief and it takes a leap of faith to tackle the job but take your time and the current heatwave will make fitting much easier.

[mpbarrett]

I have just fitted my new hood on my Herald. I have some spare plates that are used to clamp the webbing to the rails and rear panels if yours are missing.
I also have a copy of the Triumph World article about fitting a new hood to a herald. I recently got it from someone on this forum but could send you a copy. 
BTW the original article is based on Anglian triumph fitting a new hood to my car, they were doing some restoration on my car at the time. That was in 2013 so I guess 10 years life for a hood isn't too bad!

mike

[Antonnick]

thankyou both for the replies - I got the hood from Rimmers last FEbruary when I was in England for a short visit so as I do not live there, no chance of having someone familiar with a Herald fit it for me. In any case, up to now I have botched everything my self so why stop now? 😀 There are some helpful videos in YT to follow which do help. Yes, we also have very warm temperatures even here in the "Mittelgebirge" at 600m so it is easier to stretch the material into position. 

If you do have a scanned copy of detailed fitting instructions/article  mpbarrett and could send it to me, that would be very helpful, thankyou. I do have some clamp plates in my stock, so no problem there.

Antonia-Nichol@gmx.de

Edited June 21, 2023 by Antonnick

[mpbarrett]

Good luck with the hood fitting. BTW where are you based?

file below.

regards 

mike

STR Herald Roof fitting.pdf

[Antonnick]

Thankyou very much Mike for that - really helpful. I am now studying it hard!

I had already started by fixing the back end. I located where the two central holes were needed in the hood, punched them through and tempory screwed them using large self tapping onto the tub. Then the hood edge can be stretched to the next position, marked with chalk, hole punched and the temp screw put in. Working from the middle outwards, this seems to work well such that this rear fitting is tight and overlays well.

The front header rail I have already refurbished and rust proofed, painted gloss black but finally completely covered it in self adhesive black vinyl. 

The front seal war perished and used to let in copious amounts of rainwater when it really bucketted down. A replacement of the origial profile is no longar available it seems but rather a soft rubberised channel section. I have got hold of a sort of plastic section which matches the original but is only available in grey colour. Will see if it works. This will be a tricky bit I think. The vinyl covering of the header rail, the plastic header seal and then the mohair hood itself all have to be accurately holed and then held in place by a steel channel. 

By the way I live in rural Vogelsberg, some 80km north of Frankfurt am Main. 

gruß/ regards

Antonia

 

[mpbarrett]

really important to make sure that the hinges on the end of the front rail are not seized, they need to move as the hood is raised and lowered. If they are seized they will break..

Never fitted a mohair hood but it really helps to do the fitting on a nice sunny day or in a very warm garage so that it can be pulled tight.
 

mike

[Antonnick]

"really important to make sure that the hinges on the end of the front rail are not seized, they need to move as the hood is raised and lowered. If they are seized they will break.."

 

It looks to me as if the arms on the header rail ( or stick in the article) which get bolted to the hood frame have been welded up at some stage . Never been a problem before though.

 

[mpbarrett]

On 27/06/2023 at 09:06, Antonnick said:

"really important to make sure that the hinges on the end of the front rail are not seized, they need to move as the hood is raised and lowered. If they are seized they will break.."

 

It looks to me as if the arms on the header rail ( or stick in the article) which get bolted to the hood frame have been welded up at some stage . Never been a problem before though.

 

Oh... if they dont move then it puts strain thru the rest of the frame. Normally the fixing to the Stick break. If that been strengthened then the force will bend the rest of the frame.
If its always been like that, and worked, then maybe other parts of the frame are taking the movement. It is a very complex and neat design.
Good luck with the installation.

mike 

[Antonnick]

I am proceeding bit by bit - the hood front is now glued to the "stick" and inside the channel. Next operation is to screw in the steel profile together with the front plastik bulb profile piece. I will take a picture if it works!

I have lost one of the alu end clips! It must be somewhere amongst my chaos as it definately was there when the original was removed.........

Edited June 29, 2023 by Antonnick

[Antonnick]

Whilst waiting for the new end clips - I wanted to say what a blessing the article was which MPBarrett downloaded . Especially informative was the tip to clip the rear inside material to the tub flange at the rear. It really does make the finish look good even by my normally poor workmanship.