Roy S Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 You can read my ongoing saga under the "Hissing Noise" thread. But it looks like I need to get the pump out to replace the water seal. I've got the kit on order, they told me a little about the left hand thread on the top bolt. Spoken to another and they told me the whole assembly has to come out, shaft, brass bushing etc and then I need it machined to fit again or it will leak.My thoughts were to simply replace the bearing and water seal and leave the brass cup (bearing holder) in place together with the oil seals as they are not leaking. But now it looks a bigger job than I first thought.Anyone replaced one of these before??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck the Truck Posted June 25, 2005 Share Posted June 25, 2005 Hi Roy S,Assuming your water pump is the source of the "Hissing Noise", mine failed on the way back from Shepton Mallett. James Paddock advised that the bottom face of the impeller must be machined flat - otherwise it will 'rip' the new seals and you're back to 'square one'! Howard Vesey (who has re-conditioned more Stag motors than anyone else in the world) reconditioned my pump. The "O-ring" oil seal had been squashed flat after 29 years! All re-installed with new oil and water seals and our Stag just did 2,500 miles around Italy - including Monte Cassino, Vesuvius and the Amalfi coast with no water pump problems. Overheating - yes - but that was a 'lazy' thermostat not opening fully - nothing to do with the pump which was still water and oil-tight. So - replace everything is the advice.Kenlowe fan is worthwhile - mine indicated the overheating problem, and - I think - stopped my head gaskets going! I replaced the thermostat in Duesseldorf with a 74C item, and had no problems thereafter - despite a manic dash down the autostrada to catch up with the rest of our group.Best of luck. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy S Posted June 29, 2005 Author Share Posted June 29, 2005 Got the pump cover off and the bolt on top of the impeller unscrewed leaving the pump where it was......Seen two versions of the tool available form Rimmers the basic DIY? version is only £7 but is it any good? They do a pro version but this is £39.Anyone got a removal tool in the Farnham Surrey area that I could borrow???Was also told that a slide hammer located under the top bolt could be used but this seems a little harsh to me.Anyone got advice on removing the pump???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakaday Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 A slide hammer is probably gonna do the least damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinweevil Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 Bit late here Roy but just in case you've not moved forward...The £7 rimmers tool is fine but you do need a slide hammer with it. I'm near Gatwick an I have the tool, slide hammer, press and bearing extractor you'll need.Tinweevil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy S Posted July 8, 2005 Author Share Posted July 8, 2005 Not too late at all, just purchased a slide hammer and expect it to be delivered any day now. I've got an old engine lifting mount that I'm going to bend at right angles and use the water pump shaft bolt to attach it to the shaft. I was told to simply undo the bolt and attach the slide hammer underneath but thought the above method would be a little easier on the pump bolt.Let me get the pump vane and shaft out and see what I find, your not that far from me and I'd like to take you up on the offer when ready. Thanks once again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy S Posted July 18, 2005 Author Share Posted July 18, 2005 OK, got the pump out and have attached the picture below, litle gunked up round the bearing and seals but most of this will be replaced. Did find a small section of coiled spring that seems to be part of the seal but until I get it all apart I can't see where it was from.The bracket and slide hammer worked just fine. I bent it beyond right angles so the hook of the slide hammer was positioned over the bolt of and pump. Few sharp knocks and out it came./uploads/pump01.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy S Posted July 22, 2005 Author Share Posted July 22, 2005 My thanks to Tinweevil, took the complete pump over and he got the old bearing of and the new lot on. After removing the water vane it was evident that the water seal was past it, in fact I was amazed it only leaked as much as it did. The underside of the vane was too rusted and pitted to go back on without a little attention. Found a local one man company near Weybridge who turned the face down to good metal for £5. Below are the before and after shots. Now looking to replace the bearing in the block and also while I'm at it get the brass bearing holder out and replace the oil seals. Will it ever end...............(why do I already know the answer)/uploads/56kb0011.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy S Posted July 22, 2005 Author Share Posted July 22, 2005 And the after picture..../uploads/56lk0012.jpg.Tinweevil was telling me about a Triumph conversion that removes the water pump and blocks the holes off and you fit an electric pump. Anyone done this to a Stag before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinweevil Posted July 23, 2005 Share Posted July 23, 2005 Hi Roy, that impeller looks better :-)You can see pictures of the Dolomite Club parts on this page:http://www.dollysprint.com/Stag owners would only need the cage replacement (2nd, 3rd and 4th pictures). The link tube in the 1st picture take water to (or from, can't remember now) the sprint inlet manifold through a pump cover that different to the stag cover.The Davies Craig water pump gets spoken well of, Demon Tweeks among other stock it.Tinweevil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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