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Spin on adapter seal advice


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Hi all,

Thought this might be the best section to get some advice even though the car is a TR6. I've got a spin on adapter fitter which is apparently made by flowtec. I was concerned that oil pressure was not instant even with the spin on adapter and after reading some old threads was worried all might not be well with the seals fitted between adapter - block.

I've just taken the adapter off and while 1) it doesn't leak 2) only an outer seal was present on the adapter (see photo) the recess for the inner seal is not present. Does this mean oil would leak back into the engine unfiltered? I presume the inner seal is held by the recess in the adapter and meets the flat face on the block?

Sorry if these are obvious/daft statements but I just want to be clear, hopefully someone can clarify whether I need to try and get an inner seal or perhaps the new spring loaded arrangement?



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Yes,its missing the inner seal.
just bung in a thick O ring, it will flatten out

another thing to watch ootfor,is the bigg outer seal.
the one int block, as previous owners,or no tech minded,some times put another onein and leave the old one in.
so it sits even furtha oot

Mine takes a few seconds to build pressure up if left for a few days, but is instant after a day
not running, well almost instant.


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Thanks for the reply, yes its difficult to see whether there is an outer left in the block or not.

Just had a look on Chris Witor, looks like this seal for the older style adapter will do the job? http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CW2537

I guess without a seal there was definitely a risk of oil getting past if not a cert!?

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Adaptor is made by Mocal.

No inner seal will allow a small proportion of oil will pass unfiltered.  Probably not a big deal.

Worse is that it provides an easy leak path for the oil galleries to drain down when standing, leading to a long wait for oil pressure on start-up - which ain't good.

Official method is to do a trial fitting with the outer seal (just one, new) in place, but no inner, and a blob of plasticene to see what sort of gap you get.  On that basis you choose between a fat or thinner inner O-ring.

In practice most seem to need the fat one.  However, if you get persistent leakage from the outer seal then it may be you need the small one!  Do NOT over-tighten the bolt to try a fix the leak as it is not unknown for the boss to pull right out of the casting and that is a VERY bad thing!


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thing to doo, bung new O ring on, and cover the O ring,or blok, NOT both, and then push on hard, if  either bit picks up the other side, then its a good fit, as when its tightened,it will be even better fit.  follow,!!!

edit, must have typed same time as Nick,
great minds must think alike,  :) :)

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