TimW
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Everything posted by TimW
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908 wrote:Thanks Tim I am getting all the bits needed for the job to do as a winter project ;) how is the car rear handling now complete rubbish!! I took the lowering block out tonight and found it is 1" thick!! What was i thinking!!!!! I am going to get it machined down to 1/2" or maybe a 1/4" but for the time being i'm going to rebuild it to standard height and take it for a ride to see what difference it makes.
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another
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some of you have asked for some pics of my rear disc conversion. Any questions just ask!
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Spearson wrote:I live near stroud, gloucestershire, i have asked around a couple of people i know who have triumphs but no one seems to have one Hi I live in Kidderminster. I think its about 40mins from stroud. You are welcome to come and use mine! All the best Tim
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Spearson wrote:I have encountered a problem with fitting these wheels to my car. Namely the rear hubs. I have tried and tried to remove the hubs from the driveshaft to no avail. I have read in several places that you need the special triumph hub pulling tool but i'm not willing to fork out £50-60 for one. I already have a sturdy hub puller which i have tried to use and it will not budge, i even tried using a slide hammer on the hub puller to free the hub, but nothing. If i can't remove them i'm thinking about replacing the entire halfshafts with reconditioned ones from canley classics. Unless anyone can suggest anything to help remove the hubs? I think the only way is to use the Triumph puller. I scraped 2 hubs trying to remove them with a normal puller. Buy the tool and have it done in 10min. Maybe someone lives near you who has one. Where are you? Regards Tim
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Hi Sprint alloys have a different offset to spitfire wheels. The kit you have will work but will put extra loads through your drive train which may result in rapid failure of the weaker components like wheel bearings and trunions. I would not fit such a kit or sprint alloys. Plenty of correct offset alloys are avilable from a well known online auction site! All the best Tim
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xyv wrote:yes well that certain supplier has some good kit, and i can't fault the part i bought from him, but i have to say he was somewhat economical with the truth with me too. nonetheless you'll be pleased with the end result i'm sure. I am very happy with the general quality of the kit supplied and also with most other parts that i have purchased from him. I will be using him again i'm sure.. the point of this thread was to make sure that i had done everything as i should have and that i'm not being a complete tit!!! I am a bit disapointed that he was somewhat economical with the truth with me also.
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The 2500 box looks like a nice install but i dont want to have to weld the chasis rails as mine has just come back from a very expensive paint job. I should have test fitted the type 9 before it went to paint but like a fool i fell for the "no you don't need to mod the tunnel" comments that i had been told!!!!!!!!
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So as an alternative to the type 9 how easiy is it to fit a TR6 J type/2000/2500 J type gearbox to the GT6 MK3? I do know that some mods will be required but how much? any ideas?????
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Looks like i will have to mod the tunnel. NOT HAPPY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hi Guys Thanks for the feedback. i have had a chat with frontline today. he says that he has sold "hundreds" of GT6 kits and never had a single complaint. He did say that the gearbox tunnel needs to have the gearsick hole enlarged slightly because the gearstick is a little further back than origonal but not 70mm. He has asked if i can measure the depth of the bell housing just to make sure that the late GT6 used the same as all the others. I told him i thought he was clutching at straws and they were all the same but would measure it and get back to him. This is all before i insist he comes to have a look to make sure i havn't done anything stupid. Don I will try and take a pic of the mounting plate for you. Is it pos for you to take a pic of the tunnel at the bulkhead to see how good the carpet fit is? I am not a total perfectionist but i do expect to get what i pay for and with the time and effort i am putting into this build i don't want to spoil things with things like badly fitted carpets!!!!!!! Any further comments welcome and once again thanks for all of your advise on this and all my other posts.
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Hi Nick Google gave me the answer
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Nick Thanks for your reply but whats a W58? Regards Tim
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I had a chat with the supplier today. he did make some valid points. I had put the engine mounting spacers (about 10mm thick) in the wrong place ie not between the rubber mount and turret. This has now been changed and has helped move the engine and box forward a little. Following andreGT6 pics i have measured both od gearbox and type 9 (see pics below) I have found that from front of OD box to centre of gear stick hole is about 430mm. The type 9 from front of adapter plate to gear stick hole is about 510mm This leaves a gap from vertical face gearbox tunnel to bulkhead of about 70mm with the tunnel pushed as close to the back of the gearbox as possible. I think that the remote gear change on the type 9 will need to be 50-60mm shorter to get the tunnel to just fit. If i mod the tunnel to cover the gearbox the tunnel will just touch the very end of the handbrake. I don't know what else i can do so will have to chat with the supplier again tomorrow to see if we can come up with a solution. I do think that if we can come up with a solution the type 9 will be a HUGE improvment to the triumph o/d box
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Nick_Jones wrote:Don't believe that the original gearsick position is acheivable with T9 in a GT6 - modified box or not. Definitely isn't in a Vitesse. I await next episode with interest....... Nick I had many conversations with both suppliers before ordering and was told that the origonal position is maintained and it does state on the jigsaw web site that the gearstick is maintaned in its origonal position. How else will the tunnel and molded carpets fit if not??? Jigsaw have been very helpful with the supply of parts so far so i am sure they will be able to sort it out.
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Yes I am aware that Jigsaw developed the GT6 kit with Frontline and that the kit was sent directly from frontline but i paid jigsaw for it so will direct my questions to them in the first instance. Thanks for the comments.
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a pic of the gearbox with tunnel sitting in the car I will take some more this afternoon with the tunnel removed
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Hi The gear change has been modified. I bought it from Jigsaw as a bolt in kit at a cost of £1500 it should just fit!!!!!!! I will be calling them on monday.watch this space
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Hi All i have now fitted the 2.5 lump and type 9 gearbox into the GT6. I have bought the gearbox as a kit from a retailer known to us all. On his web site it says that this is a bolt in conversion and retains the origonal gear stick location. I have tried to fit the gearbox tunnel today and have found that the gear stick is some 3 inch further back than the hole in my fiberglass tunnel !!!! Anyone have any ideas as to why? Has anyone done the same conversion? I will talk to the supplier on monday and see what he says but at the minute i'm a bit pi**ed off with the cost of the conversion and the amount of work it's taken to get the thing to fit only to find the gear stick is too close to the handbrake!!!! Thanks to all Regards Tim
