TimW

jcarruthers wrote:Laurence - in fact even better is MS's hybrid SD/AN mode which blends between TPS for low down and MAP for higher up when the cam gives enough vacuum higher up the rev range. Spider - it's worth fitting a MAP sensor from the start, that's a very standard install. It's pretty odd not to have one at all. You can mount the standard Megasquirt MAP sensor in a small box from somewhere like Maplin and connect it up pretty easily. does microsquirt not have it's own MAP sensor?

sand/shot blast only the seams and edges as these are hard to remove paint from and have inherent strength from the folds in the metal.  Stay away from any large flat areas as these will ripple.  Expect to pay about £100-£150 for seams and edges.  I would use a good DA sander and 120 grit paper as stated above.

VR1

VR1

battery earth bolts to side of battery box. earth from starter solenoid bolts to N/S bell housing Steering column has earth to roll bar mounting for the horn.

Hi Ted I think the title of goods remains with the seller until full payment is received.  Once you have paid for it it's yours irrelevant if you have it in your possession or not.  Small claims court sounds like the only answer but then you must prove that it was never actually delivered!  On the other hand he would have to prove he posted it. Difficult situation Tim

timbancroft61 wrote:Tim, Have you fitted a front to rear brake bias valve? If not how do you find the front to rear balance? Hi Tim Sorry for the delay in replying.  I don't have a bias valve because i have the Canley 4 pot caliper and vented disc conversion.  When i had the capri disc setup i could lock the rears before the fronts ??) ??) ??) Almost rear ended Royboy at oulton park!!   I would have fitted the bias valve if the capri disc would have fitted with Canley alloy hubs but they didn't! I think if you fit the mgf rear's then you MUST fit a bias valve

5933 wrote:Like that option as well, but I think I'm going for the single big bore one! Would it be hard to find a second hand 6-3-1 manifold? But then there's another problem, cause Rimmer only sells the single big bore exhaust as a kit with the manifold.. Why are you so determined to use Rimmers?  You could buy from pheonix direct http://www.phoenixexhausts.com/ or I think James paddock http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/ or Andrew Turner also sells them http://www.su-carbs.co.uk/

smithy wrote:Where'd that copyright video, with enhanced sound tweaked by a specialist engineer, come from?  ;D (It badly wants cropping). My desktop 8) 8) 8) 8) ;)

5933 wrote:That sounds absolutely awesome!! What kind of manifold/air filter set-up are you running? Edit: Before I forget to ask, is yours from Rimmerbros? Going to watch your video another 20 times now  ;D Thank you.  Pheonix 6-3-1 manifold and single exit system (not from rimmers).  EFI induction using the Triumph PI Log and remote air filter all as per my EFI thread found here. http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl/Blah.pl?m-1321968625/   8) 8)

bit tricky without taking it all to bits but you can see the flat plate between the hub and bearing grease cap.  Very simple just a square plate with a couple of legs welded on to locate the caliper.  I didn't have any issues with fitting them inside 13" wheel using MGF disc.

bobyspit wrote:I need to get them under 13'' alloys. Any photos of the brackets you guys have fabricated? Rob Got mine on the ramp so will go take a pic.  

single bore is the best IMHO.  quiet enough to do 2500 miles in 4 days but loud enough to make you smile 8) 8)  Single exit is the quietest of the "performance systems" http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee296/rds_giro/?action=view&current=DSCN1241.mp4 This is what a single exit sounds like.

MikeyB wrote: And having stood behind it at Prescott as you took off -sound's bloomin awesome! Thanks Mike 8) 8)

908 wrote:Or you could fit an original Triumph Pi system of course it too has it.s ( EFI) critics and I have to say Tim's car with all the work he has done on the engine is a fantastic motor. He will be the first to say that the EFI system he has fitted gives great results and I can say his car is not easy to stay with even in an Audi TSFi 210bhp Quattro  ;D but he has doen a lot of work to his engine.  ;) But Tim will tell you he has done what he is done to his car to achieve a very fast road/track day car and he has got such a car and I take my hat off to him  :) ;) As for fitting EFI on your car you may feel like others you just want to see triple webbers under the bonnet and listen to the fantastic induction roar they give. The only down side I can hear with EFI is a muted induction noise  :-/ But you should take advice from some of the chaps on here a lot of them have a great deal of good advice to give you. But listen less so to the zealous people who will try and scare you with over inflated costs of fitting webber carbs. They are not easy things to setup right but once done they are the dogs for a sweet induction noise and do give the best from a well sorted engine. As for MPG come on if MPG is such a major thing for owners of old cars then get rid and buy something modern sad if MPG worries you so much in driving your classic car. The last thing that you should be looking at on a fantastic run out on a stunning road with great views is your blooming petrol gauge ;D These people will always push EFI as they have built their whole thing on EFI and push everything a side that is not EFI. But just remember it's your car your money and your life and you need to do and live it the way that makes you happy with your car  ;) Oh and if you have the money to spare then spend it how you want not how others would want you to :) Now just read the replies to my reply  ;) and make your own mind up you will get great help on this forum for which ever way you go on your car. ;) Me well I now have a Pi setup for my car but I also now have a set some Italian webber/dellorto carbs  :o not sure what will end up on my car but the carbs are less work to fit but require a bit more once fitted :-/ Just look at the picture below I took at Prescott of a Vitesse fitted with such carbs what a sight hey. Thanks for your kind comments regarding my car Hugh but I haven't done much to actually improve power with my engine.  I have fitted a TR5 cam and decked the block to increase the compression.  The other work that has been completed is to try and make it stand up to being thrashed within an inch of it's life ;D So on a relativity standard 2.5 with a TR5 cam with EFI I have 150bhp and 160ftlbs of torque.  It does go quite well!

You could convert to EFI for less cost than webers and have the benefit of being able to tune all through the rev range.  The only real issue with EFI is cutting and welding the Lucas throttle bodies in order to get bonnet clearance. I can sort this for you if you want to know more PM me.

standard TR6 heater valve assembly fits my MK3 GT6 but you may need to cut it down to get bonnet clearance on a MK1 or 2

Mike charges £200 to "Refresh" your own diff unit. New bearings, seals and to check it over.

I am interested in both track days 8) 8)

1344 wrote:I might have got that the wrong way round (I have just woken up) They might have been pointing upwards and I had to raise the ajusters to their uppermost position to get them level (ish) which put the car up a bit. When I have finished having my c#%p ( aren't these smart phones handy) ill have a look ! yes Dave when you lower the car the steering arms slope up causing bump steer.  The head of the marina rod end is off set to the thread so the steering arm sits lower while still maintaining your lowered ride height.  Marcus and UKsnatcher (gaz) have both contributed to a thread about this.  I am sure they will but in soon enough

908 wrote:Okay I can lay my hands on a GT6 MKII camshaft for £60 or an original TR5 for £150 which is the best one to go for price/performance wise any ideas welcomed  :) Hugh You can buy a new cast blank TR5 profile cam for less than £150.  I wouldn't bother with used unless it's cheap!!

908 wrote:Okay I can lay my hands on a GT6 MKII camshaft for £60 or an original TR5 for £150 which is the best one to go for price/performance wise any ideas welcomed  :) Hugh You can buy a new cast blank TR5 profile cam for less than £150.  I wouldn't bother with used unless it's cheap!!

1344 wrote:Watch your track rod angles,I found when I wound my ajusters up to the height I wanted they were angled downwards which caused bump steer ! My car is now lower than I wanted,not by much but I do find speed bumps a pain try using Marina track rod ends.  They have a larger offset so this allows the steering arm to sit better.

I wouldn't bother!!  You can use a rat-tail file on the SU mounting holes to enlarge them enough to fit the GT6 manifold.  Much less chance of air leaks and the adapters are shite!!

OK  I have made a mistake with speed-rpm ratios on my set up. With a V6 ford Type 9 and a 3.27:1 diff on 185/60-13's 60mph=2500rpm 70mph=3000rpm 80mph=3500rpm 90mph=4000rpm 100mph=4500rpm 110mph=5000rpm 120mph=5500rpm 130mph=6000rpm (theoretical) All checked using a sat-nav and a 38 year old smiths tacho!!  Checked on a private road ;) 8)