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TimW

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Everything posted by TimW

  1. TimW

    float bowls

    Yes Wim Andrew turner is a top guy and a true Triumph enthusiast. You wont go wrong using him 8)
  2. GT6_User_and_Abuser wrote:whats the fastest team car? dolly sprint
  3. TimW

    float bowls

    4526 wrote:i just opened up the rear one .. there is a lot of rust in there .. hopefully i can get it all out  :) Email is send to SU carb's  ;) you can remove the float bowl from the carb by removing a bolt that is on the side of the bowl.  makes it easier to clean out.  
  4. ferny wrote:Ask Chris if he's willing to put his opinions in writing as an independent specialist and go from there. Assuming you have the original bill stating it's refurbished. If you haven't then you can't even prove you got it from them.   Yes i do have the original bill of sale for the conversion but proving that 5 years use hasn't caused the problems could be difficult and expensive to prove in court.  lesson learnt
  5. worcester19 wrote:Hi Tim, I wondered what had happenned to your other project. I noticed that your shell has a hole cut out for a sunroof. I still have an old section of roof if you need it- this was about the only solid part on the old shell! Stephen It's a trimcraft fabric sunroof so will be staying.  Thanks for the offer.  Do you want the diff mounting bracket off the spare chassis?
  6. Well almost 4 years after fitting the Type 9 it is out of the car again.  Following my completion of the RBRR last October the gearbox started to make some funny noises.  I sent it to BGH GEARTECH who are ford gearbox specialists. Firstly may I say their service is a little on the slow side due to their workload but what great people to deal with. When i bought my type9 kit it contained a "fully and complete refurbished Type9 gearbox"  What a load of bollox!!!!!! Chris at BGH says it's just about the worst gearbox he has seen in the last 15 years!  It was very, very dirty inside with all the dogs being completely filled with hard carbon like stuff, the rear needle roller was in several pieces, speedo drive was just floating around the inside of the gearbox, front of the casing that the input shaft main bearing locates was oversize probably due to the main bearing spinning in the casing.  Chris also said that it looked like a very high mileage box that had done little motorway use.  He also said that this gearbox has definatly never, never been refurbished. It has been apart but never refurbished! Total cost of rebuild as is £515+vat rebuild to heavy duty £685 +vat rebuild to heavy duty with longer first gear £950+vat Aluminium casing and lid £365+vat I have asked him to rebuild to heavy duty with the aluminium case (as mine is scrap anyway)  I am quite happy with first gear ratio now I have the 3.27 diff I bought this kit so that I could fit and forget.  Ripoff traders at it again.  I wish i could something about it but the kit is now 5 years old so I don't think I will have any case against the trader involved :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/
  7. 1903 wrote:Tim. I think I've got some OEM outer sills OEM sills a great help.  PM sent
  8. yes been in touch but he is in canada until 18th. best to have as many options as possible!
  9. Hi Spider Yes please R/H A post repair (I have 2 L/H already) I already have sill end plates Inner rear wing repair needed for both sides PM me with some cost for whatever you have and I'll either have a drive over or if your off to stoneleigh maybe we can meet there? I am also going to need Drivers floor rear drivers wing repair front and rear driver and pass outer and inner cills (have the strengtheners)
  10. 2402 wrote:Tim is this going to be sold on/kept or replace the current one??? Chris. Sold on ultimately. I don't need 2 GT6's
  11. timbancroft61 wrote:Tim, Think long and hard about a bumperless front. I really regret having that done to mine, a bad mistake by me. Will rectify sometime and fit the rear bumpers back on. Like the spec you have chosen, totally agree about using a 2.0L lump, I agree with James Carruthers about this in that sports cars should be revvy and the GT6/Vitesse 2.0L lump is the best iteration of the Triumph six cylinder engine. I have a spare 2.0 short engine now and intend to build up a lovely free revving engine. Something to be done when funds allow. I am looking forward to seeing how you get on with it all, keep us all informed with your progress. Especially looking forward to seeing some of the trick alloy parts that you will fabricate. Hi Tim Already having the 2.5 in the Mk3 I wanted to try a 2.0L.  I do like a revvy engine but I also like the 2.5 torque for the long distance events.  The MK2 will be used for trackdays and autosolos.   I don't have to think about the front bumper. IMHO the GT6 MK2 front bumper position is just about the worst design decision that Triumph ever made.  I think it ruins a fantastic looking.  Each to their own :) :)
  12. timbancroft61 wrote:Good luck with the rebuild Tim, I hope all goes well and that you end up with another superb example of these underrated cars. Any idea of the mods that you will implement or will she be a standard car? Standard Tim!  Wash your mouth out!!!! Plan is 2.0l flat-top piston, balanced with a TR5 cam and ali radiator Trunionless vertical links CV drive shafts EFI using bespoke inlet manifold with aluminium EFI fuel tank Bumberless alloy wheels Tan interior (original colour) Valencia Blue (original colour) Hoping for 140-150 BHP and a 7000rpm rev limit :)
  13. firebobby wrote:Do you still have any floor left ;) Passenger floor has already been replaced.  Drivers side is original and has some very poor brazed repairs to the inner cill.  looks like i wont be able to save the floor.
  14. First stage of the GT6 restoration that i bought as an incomplete project some time ago.   https://plus.google.com/105001040730050931020/posts?hl=en Don't know if the link will work. First time i have used Google+ for video.
  15. I wouldn't bother!  The smell will make the inside of the car "authentic" and as long as the outside is clean no one will ever know!
  16. worcester19 wrote:Cheers for the replies Guys - I will be back in the garage later this week so will have a look at cutting the top of the Chassis. Tim- have been really busy with work so not been in the Garage much or even on here to be honest - Do you guys still meet at the pub on the A449? would be good to meet up. GT6M- Understood it perfectly! I am from Bolton originally so it is a bit further North than Worcester. Thanks again Stephen Hi Stephen No the kidderminster meet has now been dropped due to poor attendance.  I now go to the TSSC/Club Triumph joint meet in wellington near telford.  A bit of a jaunt for you i expect :-/ :-/ :-/
  17. worcester19 wrote:Thanks Nick, I have snapped the bolt basically! The body is not in situ though as I am doing a full nut and bolt resto - although the diff bolts were the two I planned on leaving in place!! Thanks I have an old scrap chassis that you can come and cut the diff bracket off that houses the stud.  the entire front of the chassis is missing so it wont ever be used again. the studs on this chassis are in good condition from memory. hows the resto coming??  not seen you on here for a while. P.S. Body!  what body!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;) pm me if interested
  18. 4058 wrote: That will make him happy and he will give you a discount!  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
  19. everyone on this forum slates the EBC pads.  I have used greenstuff in both my GT6 and a Fiat Uno Turbo.  I found them to be an excellent choice.  Saying that I do now use mintex 1144's but only because the EBC pads are not available for the calipers i am using.
  20. 97679 wrote:Thanks for the responses.   JensH - so your're taking the fuel pipe between the outrigger and the body?  I'm surprised there's enough space but I can't see that until the body is on.  Grommets on the outrigger would be good. TimW - I think going around the outside and under the outrigger at the back makes sense, but would the copper pipe need anything on it for damage protection?     Studs: yes they're quite long, so I might have to trim them with the angle grinder when the body goes on and I can check the clearance.  Flexible rear hose: Yes I see what you mean.  I'll have another look at that. You don't have enough suspension travel to bottom out the chassis at the rear so in theory the pipe will never come in contact with the ground.  In an extreme circumstance it may get hit by a rock or something but it's highly unlikely. I have my fuel lines fixed to the underside of the chassis in places and have never had a problem.  I wouldn't worry about it unless you plan to do allot of offroading in it!!
  21. WELCOME You will find that this is a great forum with some fantastic people. I am proud to be a part of Club Triumph and all that is offered by the club as I am sure you have already experienced 8) 8) 8) 8)
  22. At the rear I would route the pipe under the wishbone mounting fixed to the side of the chassis with "P" clips either side of the wishbone mounting.  I also notice that the studs holding the spring to diff are very long. I don't think you will be able to fit the inspection plate once the body is in place.  I also notice that the rear steel braided brake pipe looks like it is almost kinked where it exists the 3 way union. Any chance of a pic of the hose from a different angle?
  23. michael_charlton wrote: Thats why GTs have a sloping tailgate.......we can create an upper deck car park ;D in that case i'm on top Roy ;)
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