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Everything posted by TimW
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michael_charlton wrote:Using poppers to the floor is not quite recommended as the small holes you create to affix the popper then becomes a larger hole as time progresses. Also if pop riveted the alloy rivet then corrodes and falls out I fitted the carpets as they are supposed to be, then obtained some polycarbonate sheeting, cut to the shape of the floor pan, then affixed poppers to that ,then bought the Spitfire overlay carpets and then press studded to those So the carpets then never ever move and then you can lift out the poly sheeting with the overlay carpet for cleaning.................and the original carpet is still in the floor and not stuck /poppered down What a great idea. Not just a pretty face are you mike!
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fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump,
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injectors?
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Picton sportscars did it and apparently it was so difficult they said they wouldn't do another, Scottie55 on here has also done it but used the corsa column and switch gear,
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I Have Gaz shocks all round on the GT6 and think they are fantastic.
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or re-drill the vertical links for the spring
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fit CV diveshafts and bespoke tubular wishbone rotoflex type setup to replace the swingspring i currently have. Do the auto ecosse for shake down and hope it stays together 8)
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pm sent Tim
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it can be very tight but it does just pull out once the steel retaining clip is removed.
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1381 wrote:Whats your GT6's static compression with that head Tim? 9:1? Fook knows!! Standard head and decked (previously recessed) block with flat-top pistons 180psi on a compression tester not that that means anything!!
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2402 wrote:I wouldnt. I think you will get idle problems and a loss of torque. Just my own opinion. Fit the head and cam at the same time. Chris. not with EFI you wont. I have a TR5 profile in my GT6 with a standard head and have loads of torque.
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Andy i also have used outer shafts of unknown condition. Unlike others mine would be free to a fellow club member :P :P :P :P :P 8) I'm going to stoneleigh
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I fitted 4300K HID main/dip in the GT6 for the RBRR along with a pair of modern headlight bowls (essential) THEY ARE SPECTACULAR!!!!!!!
- 45 replies
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I wouldn't even use those filters as a door stop!! They are completely useless!! no, even more useless than completely useless!! I would either fit the standard airbox or proper K&N filters. If you can't afford K&N's then fit the standard airbox.
- 42 replies
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needs 3 head lining poles
- 26 replies
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ferny wrote: Can a normal one not take that power then? I almost got my hands on a 200bhp motor when I was looking around for a Zetec lump. I worked out the power to weight ratio before considering it. I went a bit moist at the idea. :B Standard type 9 will handle 145bhp and 160ftlbs of torque. I already have 150bhp and 160ftlbs of torque so went for the heavy duty build.
- 50 replies
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Reconditioned Gearbox arrived back yesterday complete wiith aluminium casing and lid. This has now been built using heavy duty bearings and a larger needle roller on the front of the layshft. Built to 220BHP and 200ftlbs torque. Hopefully I shouldn't be able to break this one!! I have also managed to locate needle roller bearings for the end of the crank shaft rather than the phosphor bronze spigot bush as supplied in the original conversion kit. Engine and gearbox should be back in tomorrow.
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I don't know if they are the same as a stag but i do know that the gt6 floats are available new.
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4058 wrote: Thanks, I'm all choked up now! ;) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Please this is a family forum!
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Nick_Jones wrote:Don't think it matters much. Both should put where you want to be. I usually use whatever combination I happen to have in "stock". I also aim to get them at the tight end of the spec as I reckon you gain a couple of thou in the first few minutes of run time. Nick in that case I think I will get a pair of +.005" and then I know they are both new 8) 8) Thanks Nick
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I HAVE A 2.5L SALOON ENGINE I have measured the endfloat at 0.009" The front bearing is STD and the rear is +.005" Now the workshop manual for a GT6 (dont have a saloon manual) says endfloat between .004" and .008" is this correct for the saloon engine? My question is do I replace the rear for a 0.010" and leave the front as STD or leave the 0.005 in the rear and change the front to 0.005? whatever one i increase in size should i also change the other for a new one?
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1903 wrote: Ohhh Timmmmmm 8) Even gave 'em a little clean for ya Couldn't help myself You are my hero ya big polisher!
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5776 wrote:Is this about the right location? Maybe a little too far forward. You can just about read the tape measure in my previous posts. I think about 350mm from front of box to front of gearstick location maybe
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4953 wrote::( draining - jsut about to have one fitted to mine and had it checked over before fitting, it also had a few bits and bobs that needed some TLC (not bought as part of a kit tho - that's pretty damn shoddy!!) Shoddy! understatement of the decade from where i'm sitting 8) Outright theft is more accurate!! You will love the Type 9 it is a nice box to use even in the state that mine was! Can't wait to have the new one in to see what it's like now.
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4526 wrote:now i found out you got this : http://www.su-carbs.co.uk/ and this : http://www.sucarb.co.uk/ nearly the same name .. but different guy i believe .. that's confusing !! :B The sucarb site is a larger and different company to su-carb. su-carb is Andrew Turner who has turned his hobby into a business. He has a great reputation.
- 35 replies
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