TimW
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Everything posted by TimW
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bobyspit wrote:I should have kept my diff and given it a go in the Zetec powered Spit, but I did not know last year that I was doing the conversion, so I sold the diff. It went to a bloody good home :) After doing a bit of homework I will be sticking with the 3.63 and if that gives up,Ill have to look at a seirra diff (lsd) but hey I got to finish the car yet. :P Happy to have given it a new home. 8) You can have it back once I've broken it :) :)
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cliftyhanger wrote:Hang on a moment. I initially ran a 3.27 in my 2.5 vitesse, but after I broke the third one i fitted a 3.63, which lasted with no issues. In fact that diff went into my Zetec spitfire, and is bolted into the chassis of the current project. The 3.27is a bit more relaxed, but not good for longevity if you have a heavy right foot 8) Only time will tell but I bet it's done 10,000 miles and is still going strong. ;)
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I use 2 large G clamps on either side of the spring box and have had no trouble with both standard and de-cambered springs.
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Hi Rob disc and caliper from an MGF. I don't have pics of the brackets but I used a bit of plate and welded it up. You can use Ford escort conversion brackets a bit like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Capri-Escort-rear-axle-disc-conversion-brackets-13-/320623067929?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4aa69fc319#ht_500wt_969 BUT you need to modify them so much to fit that you may as well make your own.
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sparky_spit wrote: Were early Spitfire engines black too? And also the heads? I'm interested as I need to paint the block and head on mine before it gets put back together and so I might as well do it properly in the right colour. Glad to see you keeping it as original as possible Mike :P :P :P
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I caught mine last Sunday on a "B" road! Yours are too low! I just don't want you to destroy them on your first outing. 8) 8)
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4992 wrote:I'm confused. So, Tim you're running a 3.63 diff not the 3.27? This means the ratios will be fine with the 3.63 and the type 9. It's the 3.89 that doesn't work well with a type 9? and the 3.27 that blows up eventually with a type 9 and a bit of power? Bradley. No Bradley I was running a 3.63 but now i run a 3.27. This is why i said not to use a 3.63 with the type 9. The 3.27 is holding on just fine after doing the Ten countries run last year and a RBRR in a spitfire the year before that and whatever AndyGT6 did with it in his 2.5l GT6 before that!! I will still have it looked at by Mike Papworth before I do the RBRR.
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Sorry but are you sure they are high enough?? I don't think they will offer enough ground clearance as they are.
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bobyspit wrote:My 3.63 with Type 9 gearbox was returning 70 mph at 3250-3300 rpm so Tim may of had a 3.89? Well I ordered and was charged for a 3.63 but that was from Jigsaw so it could be anything!!!
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I buy these type of fixings by the million if you need any 8) 8)
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Gt6s wrote: I was thinking about this last night. Tim are you sure it was a 3.63 you had in not a 3.89 by any chance ? Laurence i haven't ever driven a GT6 with a triumph gearbox so I was guessing, to a degree, at the mph per 1000rpm. I stand corrected on the ratio :B :B
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Nick_Jones wrote:2.5 grunt plus low first gear does break 3.27 diffs...... plenty have proven this........ just a matter of time Tim...... (having watched an appreciated your Prescott video :)) Nick My diff was originals from Canley's and was a new "uprated" crown wheel and pinion. The diff has started to whine just a little bit more after Sundays antics ??) ??) I shall pull the diff in a couple of weeks and get it over to Mike Papworth to change the bearings and seals and check it over before the RBRR
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Gt6s wrote: I gave up on 3.27's donkeys years ago I built up a strengthened differential unit with 3.27 CWP, the differential stood the test but then eventually the pinion split. That was the end of me and 3.27's. Blew up a few 3.63's after that but have not looked back since going with the 3.63 Quaife combination. yes Laurence but not all of us have your power or as heavy a right foot as you ;) ;) ;D although I am trying!! :)
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4992 wrote: Thanks for the reply, Tim. Good to hear from someone who's actually done and run a car with the mod. From your experience I think I won't risk it and will go with the 3:27 probably with a Quaife. I saw Smithy's video off your car taking off, bleeding quick get away, surprised me. Bradley. It's only got 150bhp and 160ftlbs of torque but the low first gear on the type 9 with the 3.27 helps you get off the line
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Gt6s wrote: Now that I see those figures the type 9 does not have much of an overdrive. A 3.27 with an overdrive will pull 25 mph per 1000 rpm. Mine on 3.63 with a higher 28 % OD and larger tyres 205/55/15 pulls 24mph per 1000. @ 5800 rpm ( shift light setting ) is 0.8 mph shy of 140 mph. 96 mph at 4000 rpm. The type 9 with a 3.27 gives 20mph per 1000 rpm which i think is the same as 4th OD with a 3.63
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GT6 MK3 has no padding. trim is glued directly to the door tops.
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GT6 MK3 has no padding. trim is glued directly to the door tops.
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I have glued heat reflective material to the underside of the tunnel (fiberglass), REMOVED the exhaust wrap as it does nothing! made sure that ALL of the holes in the bulkhead are plugged and made sure that the tunnel is properly sealed and then gaffer taped just to make sure. I have also used aluminium sheet fixed to the underside of the chassis to deflect any heat from the exhaust system. My GT6 Mk3 cabin is much cooler now and will even blow cool air inside if i use the cold setting on the heater controls! I think I would eliminate the heat issue altogether if i was to put heat reflective material on the inside of the bulkhead and floors.
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MikeyB wrote:They did - I keep coming across them in my garage sorting of Triumph related tubs. Used in more than one application, can't remember them all but on a Dolly and a big saloon they are used for holding the anodised ally door tread plates down amongst other things! OK so maybe i should have said "I don't think Triumph used them on GT6's and Vitesse's in the factory" I haven't found any on my GT6 :-/ :-/ Were tread plates factory fitted or dealer options Mike?
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MikeyB wrote:They did - I keep coming across them in my garage sorting of Triumph related tubs. Used in more than one application, can't remember them all but on a Dolly and a big saloon they are used for holding the anodised ally door tread plates down amongst other things! OK so maybe i should have said "I don't think Triumph used them on GT6's and Vitesse's in the factory" I haven't found any on my GT6 :-/ :-/ Were tread plates factory fitted or dealer options Mike?
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4992 wrote: I see now thanks for the info, this defiantly seems like a good route although expensive. Mind you I guess this is balanced out by not having to cough up for recon diffs all the time. What would the gearing be like with a 3.63, type 9 and 2500? Bradley. Bradley The gearing will be rubbish with the type 9 and a 3.63:1 diff. I know this because i had that setup. With the 3.27 I can cruise at 90mph doing 4000rpm with a top end of about 120mph. The 3.27 did affect the acceleration a little but that just means you need more power!!! Now I have EFI I don't find the acceleration too bad at all. Have a look at the "Royvoy to prescott" thread for some video action of my GT6
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They are self drilling screws. They have a small drill point on the end so you dont need to drill a pilot hole. I wouldn't have thought that Triumph used these in the factory.
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796 wrote: Tim prob find its the rear channel, the rear stops this happening, as it kees it up against the front. but needs to be adjusted just right. It will rb be the inner linning has worn / rotted away owa the aeons. M changed the channel for a new one. It's most defiantly the winder being worn :( :(
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796 wrote: Tim prob find its the rear channel, the rear stops this happening, as it kees it up against the front. but needs to be adjusted just right. It will rb be the inner linning has worn / rotted away owa the aeons. M changed the channel for a new one. It's most defiantly the winder being worn :( :(
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Ron I have the same problem with my gt6. does the glass rise evenly until midway and then starts to move towards the B post? if so it's the winder mechanism that's worn. I have just bought a couple off ebay to see if this fixes things.
