Nick Jones
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Everything posted by Nick Jones
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Sounds ok to me. I'd imagine the main cost would be the casting patterns and tooling up for the machining. I don't have any kind of feel for what that might be. Numbers produced will obviously have a huge effect on total manufacturing cost but I reckon that anything up to
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This has been done by a gent in either Denmark or Sweden who modified the carb manifold fairly extensively and used Megasquirt. I found him via the Megasquirt "success stories" before I'd even started mine (5 + years ago) and it was there for a while as I looked at it several times. Of course I can't find it now I want want it 🙁 Seem to remember he claimed huge torque and vastly improved fuel economy from an otherwise standard but carefully built engine. If I had a Stag with original V8 I would do this, and probably lpg it at the same time. Nick
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Interesting.... are those MGF discs and calipers? Seems to be more room on swing axle rear end.... Nick
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This is a W58 in a Vitesse btw - its big but the gearstick does come out in the original position. Unfortunately the effect is slightly spoiled in this case by my home-made short remote which meant the tunnel still needed a small mod. There is a proper Toyota remote which would do the job more neatly but I couldn't find one at the time. Nick
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Hi Guys Thanks for the feedback. i have had a chat with frontline today. he says that he has sold "hundreds" of GT6 kits and never had a single complaint. [/quote] Aye, we're a patient lot, the Brits...... 339 wrote: He did say that the gearbox tunnel needs to have the gearstick hole enlarged slightly because the gearstick is a little further back than origional but not 70mm. Enlarged slightly....?! he's having a laugh - plenty of evidence in this thread to the contrary I'd say! 339 wrote: He has asked if i can measure the depth of the bell housing just to make sure that the late GT6 used the same as all the others. I told him i thought he was clutching at straws and they were all the same but would measure it and get back to him. This is all before i insist he comes to have a look to make sure i havn't done anything stupid. All GT6 (and Vitesse) have the same bellhousing. It is a fact that the gearstick comes out further back, even when the gearbox remote has been shortened. If you don't shorten it it will come out about halfway down the handbrake..... The shortened solution is ok but it is misleading (at best) to say the tunnel doesn't need modifying. Nick
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There is no doubt that the T9 will be a huge improvement over the original Triumph effort (esp non OD) in many ways. However, for the supplier to state that the gear lever will come out in the same place is just plain wrong. The T9 is longer, alot longer. Although it is possible (quite straight-forward even) to shorten the remote by 65mm odd, that is only about 1/2 the shortening needed to match the original position and to go shorter still needs major re-engineering. This was the main reason I went W58 in the Vitesse. The situation is better in Spitfires but the lever will still come out further back (probably near the std GT6 position). The pic below shows the moment I realised the scale of the problem...... Nick
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Don't believe that the original gearsick position is acheivable with T9 in a GT6 - modified box or not. Definitely isn't in a Vitesse. I await next episode with interest....... Nick
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Richard_B wrote: or you split it; Front Left - Rear Right, Front Right - Rear Left. Flemming, look for Spitfire or GT6 Tandem systems as fitted for some overseas markets? Not recommended as the suspension geometry means it will REALLY pull to one side. More modern stuff designed for diagonal split line brakes has different suspension design/settings to reduce the pull (makes steering heavier) Nick
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Richard_B wrote:Dual circuit brake system. If one circuit fails you still have the other half a braking system. ??) If you call back brakes only half a breaking system...... more like a 5th :o Still, better than nothing (handbrake :P) Nick
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Nick_Jones wrote:See attached pic. Dimensions should be treated with a degree of caution as for various reasons I can't lift the car just now and it's too low to get under. Holes appear to be 12mm (1/2") from the edges (top and bottom) of the outrigger. I can't measure the whole tie rod length with the wheel on, but the distance between the ends of the two tube sections is 67mm. (jam nuts included within that 67mm). No reason why this will also be correct on yours - toe must be set once assembled and at normal running height. Note that roto chassis brackets are different - can't see any in your pic...... Note also that there are anti-crush tubes in the outrigger. Hope this helps Nick I'll post the pic this time.... :B
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See attached pic. Dimensions should be treated with a degree of caution as for various reasons I can't lift the car just now and it's too low to get under. Holes appear to be 12mm (1/2") from the edges (top and bottom) of the outrigger. I can't measure the whole tie rod length with the wheel on, but the distance between the ends of the two tube sections is 67mm. (jam nuts included within that 67mm). No reason why this will also be correct on yours - toe must be set once assembled and at normal running height. Note that roto chassis brackets are different - can't see any in your pic...... Note also that there are anti-crush tubes in the outrigger. Hope this helps Nick
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^^ What he said. ^^ I can measure my car (Vit mk2), which has original rear outriggers, if you get stuck . You'll also have some brake pipe re-routing to do and note that the rotoflex rear has different handbrake cable guides mounted on the tub rather than the chassis. With the CV shafts you may find that the existing arrangement can be connected (fouls on roto couplings when fitted) but I think you'll find the handbrake adjustment varies wildly with suspension position...... I have a Mk2 chassis and mk 1 tub so I know these things :( Nick
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Sweet! What is that tandem master cyl from? Looks like you have got it on without chopping the bulkhead too - is that a LHD priveledge? Nick
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Hmm, interesting - seems they are all very similar lengths. And Mk2 Vitesse is all soft too...... Thanks for posting that John! Nick
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You need to use a rotoflex spring with the roto rear as they are different lengths. You would probably be better using a Vitesse one as it will be stronger than the the GT6 one and more suitable for the extra weight of the Herald, espcially if you want to carry passengers, luggage and stuff..... The GT6 prop will be too short I'm afraid. If using standard gearbox you need the matching Vitesse propshaft. OD (D-type) and non-OD should be easy enough to come by. OD J-type a little trickier possibly depending on how the gearbox has been built (gearbox can be same length as D type OD one or 1" longer, needing a 1" shorter propshaft). See http://www.canleyclassics.com/infodatabase.asp?article=propshafts Cheers Nick
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Good friend of mine is in the process of building up a 1275 A series with BMW K series (bike) 16V head. Surprisingly easy really. That's also destined for an A30. Nick
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Nowt wrong with Strombergs in good shape. If going SU, for preference use the later HIF style (at pictured above). For info, the Sprint SUs had shorter dashpots as standard........ Nick