Nick Jones
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Everything posted by Nick Jones
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1500 Spitfire was the only small chassis Triumph that had them. The same internals were used in Dolly 1850 manual (poss 1500 auto?) but that means rebuilding a diff........ ...... so the 1500 Spit is the one - rear casing only has 4 holes for the spring studs but can be swapped with the one from your existing 3.89 Nick
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Whether top and second rings are the same depends on the ring maker. They were on the County 2.5 pistons I've recently done - Grant rings IIRC. I tried one ring in all 6 bores which showed that there was very little difference between the bores, then checked all the rings in no.1 (could of been any of them, 1 was nearest), which showed that the rings were all pretty similar too and about mid tolerance apart from one oddball one that wouldn't even go in the bore until filed a bit - which just goes to show it's wise to check them all! If you are determined to get them all spot on minimum clearance then you'll need to get a set for the next overbore up and file them down. Waste of effort IMO. Nick
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Can remember what cam you are running, but if this always occurs at aroud the same (lowish) rpm, then could be that you are having some kind of reversion/fuel stand-off? Not likely to be the case except if you have a fairly wild cam. Bell-mouths/rampipes might help or just move the problem to a different rpm..... Nick
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Sounds like good work being done so far. I admire your patience! What you describe sounds more like "accelerator pump" action that needs tuning. You will have noticed SUs don't have accelerator pumps though..... this is is what the dampers in the dashpots are for. They hold the the pistons down on snap throttle opening which increases the vacuum in the venturi, pulling more fuel through and enriching the mixture. This can be tuned to an extent by varying the viscocity of the oil in the dashpots. Thinner oil allows the piston to rise faster and reduces the accelerator pump effect. Cheers Nick
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SRF, Seems like you might as well stick with the 3.89 then. If it's quiet just leave it be...... Mark, I doubt a standard 1200 would pull a 3.27 diff - I think it would end up slower than standard in all respects. A long time ago I had J type OD on a 1200 Herald, modified with a high compression SAH head, twin carbs and 4-2-1, still running the standard 4.11 diff and that was ok, though you'd have to knock it out of OD for even quite gentle inclines. 3.89 or even 3.63 might be worth a try though.... Nick
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3.63 is an improvement but not a huge difference. 3.27 gives relaxed cruising but makes 1st/2nd a bit high. Overdrive or 5 speed is the best solution if you are planning lots of open road use but will require some investment. I have a tall 5th (0.78) and 3.63 which gives 70 mph at 3000 rpm - car would still pull a higher gear. Nick
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No, 4 cyl different from 6 cyl (and 4 cyl TRs different again) Nick
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No, 4 cyl different from 6 cyl (and 4 cyl TRs different again) Nick
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Can certainly go into P5B - there's one here http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=display&thread=112922 Andy T has posted pictures of a 1UZFE in a Stag before...... You've got me wondering (again) why I'm messing around with 6 cyl boat anchors in my PI :-/ Nick
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sorbs wrote:Often, a 20 tonne press isn't man enough to shift those flanges. I've heard of people 'shocking' them off (whacking with a big hammer) but be careful not bend the flanges or damage the stub axle. Any decent gearbox or transmission place should be able to press them off for you, or get exchange ones from the usual places. I did try a 20 tonne press on this one first. It got to 20 tonnes - and nothing happened - except the press relief valve stopped it going any higher..... Nick
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A miss is a good as a mile....... If the existing mounts are a bit saggy then new ones may help, though not sure whether any of the current new ones are worth having.......? Recent experience anyone? It is quite usual to find shims (same as front camber shims) between mount and engine bracket. Mine has a stack of them in the interests of keeping the tubular manifold away from the steering column. Nick
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Me too. Flying-saucer type tool made up and attached via wheel studs. I wound the jacking bolt up as tight as I could get it with a 3' breaker bar (and it's a nice fine UNF thread with plenty of grease) and.......... nothing happened. I beat on it with my biggest hammer for a while.......... nothing happened. I poured a kettle full of hot water over the hub and beat on it some more........ nothing happened. Added a piece of scaffolding tube and managed to tighten it a bit more....... nothing happened....... beat it, hot water plus beat, big blow-lamp plus beat........ nothing - except the flange is well bent now. Hate them..... I'm told they do sometimes come apart! Nick
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Both mine are powered from an ignition live via a relay (relay powers other MS stuff as well) - so are powered up while cranking - no issues. These things can be a bit picky about their earthing arrangements - have you gone by the book on that? Also, you definitely do not want the sensor powered up for any length of time with the engine not running - or the engine running without it powered up. Nick
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You can get the MAP sensor from Farnell - about £ 9 http://uk.farnell.com/freescale-semiconductor/mpx4250ap/ic-sensor-abs-press-36-3-psi/dp/1457153?Ntt=Pressure+sensor+MPX4250AP Might also be possible to use a proprietry stand-alone automotive unit as swiped from a scrapper if the MS can be configured to it's characteristics? Nick
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Would strongly recommend also either connecting to manifold vacuum or adding a throttle position sensor so you can add the 3rd dimension to the timing - makes a big difference. MS is somewhat technical, but the information is all there and pretty clearly presented (though I'd agree that with the number of variants now around it does get a bit confusing). Time spent learning about it is time well spent if you are planning to use it. Nick
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I use cereal packets for making those gaskets..... Greasing gasket surfaces may help them shift and wriggle into the gaps as compressed...... Been known to use it myself - or blue Hylomar. Nick
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I use cereal packets for making those gaskets..... Greasing gasket surfaces may help them shift and wriggle into the gaps as compressed...... Been known to use it myself - or blue Hylomar. Nick
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pic of mine. Needs a piece of fairly chunky plate - mine is 10mm Nick
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I'll take a picture tomorrow....... this is the best way IMO. Nick
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I've got a 6 pot block hung on an engine stand right now. What I've done is made an offset plate that picks up on the engine mount pad (as used on GT6/Vit/TR6) so that the block is mounted sideways on with the engine stand pivot point pretty much in the centre of the block. Easy to spin to whatever position and both ends of the engine are left free. Less load on the engine stand this way at the weight of the block sits much nearer the pivot point. Bare block weighs about 70 kgs, short engine about 120 kg. Nick
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Engine oil only in the bores/pistons IMO. You can always tip a little bit more in through the plug holes prior to first start. I think vaseline might be ok for bearings but I think it unsuitable for cam lobes and followers. Nick
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ajp wrote:I have a daft diff question again-and od gearbox question In prep for being allowed in the shed again next week and fitting me new second hand box /diff etc -which grade of diff/oil should I be using again? Is it 80/90 GL4 ? that can be used in in box and Diff? GT6M - will get me sel a big socket and knocking stick to take the clinky clonk diff apartr next week so we can see whats happened! GL4 and ideally it wants to say "hypoid" or "suitable for differentials" on it somewhere. Nick
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13.6v should be fine. 13.8v is the "official" voltage IIRC and you're within .2v! I've not had much luck with the more recently available Lucas ACR parts (regardless of the colour of the box they come in - this is why I fit newer Bosch alternators) so I wouldn't change unless I had too - the new one might not be a forward step! Nick
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I use Graphogen if the engine is gong to sit around for a bit before being run or Wynns (much the same as the STP stuff) otherwise. EP gear oil would probably be ok in that scenario as well. Do NOT use ATF. It's too thin and intended more as a coolant/hydraulic oil than a lubricant. Nick
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Question has been asked several times but not seen it answered. What makes you think it's overheating? A gauge in the red is one thing, could be overheating, could be the gauge lying to you. Steam and hot water blowing out of the overflow - that's overheating! That looks like a nice rad but I see a major problem with the install. Unless you have a header tank somewhere that I can't see, you are never going to get enough water in the system as the fill point is well below the thermostat housing and also below the waterways in the head. If the system isn't full it won't flow properly or transfer heat properly. The original system does work when in good condition and when completely full. There are also some nice modernisations been done using Golf and Peugeot 205 radiators (cheap, effective and they fit). These all use header tanks (usually mounted back on the bulkhead) and tend to have the top of the rad angled forward. Roy Laceys is a nice example and I thing Tim Ward has done something similar too. Lean mixture and retarded ignition also cause overheating...... Nick