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Nick Jones

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Everything posted by Nick Jones

  1. The blueish bit isn't where the bearing sits anyway.  Further in towards the vertical link.  More important question may be what does the top of the threaded section (and the shoulder above it) of the VL look like...... they do break just there.  Rust pitting etc are bad news. Nick
  2. Usually worst on the what is the bottom when fitted to the car.  If you can catch a fingernail on the wear lip formed there, you'll probably need a new one.  Not especially expensive.  The damage is caused by overtightened bearings, usually due to an ignorant younger MoT man, used to modern bearings, who doesn't appreciate that a little wheel rock is correct on these cars. Nick
  3. In my limited experience, PI plugs usually look like the thing has been running on a mixture of coal and diesel - but that's probably the result of a knackered injection and knackered rings...... Nick
  4. Nick Jones

    Camshaft ID

    Don't think even matched, numbered followers will really work unless it's all going back in the same block...... No reason they'll sit in the same relative positions. Just been pondering this on mine, tried lapping the followers but some turned out to be fairly dished anyway although they looked ok. Nick
  5. Nick Jones

    Camshaft ID

    Don't think even matched, numbered followers will really work unless it's all going back in the same block...... No reason they'll sit in the same relative positions. Just been pondering this on mine, tried lapping the followers but some turned out to be fairly dished anyway although they looked ok. Nick
  6. As already advised, these things die slow and will soldier on indefinitely if the oil is kept topped up and not thrashed too mercilessly.  No major hurry unless the bottom end is rattling. I've been moaning about mine for years as it likes a drop of oil and is starting to breath heavy.  It was due to be changed out about 2 years ago but I've been very slack, so it's done another 10 Countries and seems to use less oil since then oddly enough.  Since I've had the PI I've been forced to appreciate that the Vitesse engine is actually relatively fit! Nick
  7. Nick Jones

    Camshaft ID

    GT6 Mk2 / Vitesse Mk2 / Mk1+ Early Mk2 PI 132 bhp has the number "308778" etched on it.  Also has a 1 wide groove machined in the diameter behind the sprocket mount face. It is a better cam than the Mk3 GT6 one.  It is not the limiting factor in the mk 2 engine - I think Steve Attenborough holds the record with upper 140s bhp with that cam in a 2L...... The TR5 / Early TR6 cam has p/no. 307689.  I've never seen one so I'm not sure if they also have the number etched on them.  They should have two slim rings machined in the diameter behind the sprocket mount face.  You'll be lucky to find a real one - Newman do something similar (though not identical apparently) if asked. Some info here http://www.chriswitor.co.uk/cw_technical/camshaft_applications.pdf Nick Too slow...... Roy beat me.....
  8. Nick Jones

    Camshaft ID

    GT6 Mk2 / Vitesse Mk2 / Mk1+ Early Mk2 PI 132 bhp has the number "308778" etched on it.  Also has a 1 wide groove machined in the diameter behind the sprocket mount face. It is a better cam than the Mk3 GT6 one.  It is not the limiting factor in the mk 2 engine - I think Steve Attenborough holds the record with upper 140s bhp with that cam in a 2L...... The TR5 / Early TR6 cam has p/no. 307689.  I've never seen one so I'm not sure if they also have the number etched on them.  They should have two slim rings machined in the diameter behind the sprocket mount face.  You'll be lucky to find a real one - Newman do something similar (though not identical apparently) if asked. Some info here http://www.chriswitor.co.uk/cw_technical/camshaft_applications.pdf Nick Too slow...... Roy beat me.....
  9. Underneath, tucked up as high as possible, somewhere near the diff? Is there room for it along side the tank, between the tank and arch? Otherwise bottom rear LH corner of engine bay doesn't seem to bad an option......  Always found mechanical pumps ok myself when using carbs. Nick
  10. thescrapman wrote:I thought a Marina single rail box had different ratios to both Spitfore and GT6, being a halfway house. Cheers Colin You may well be correct.  I've not had the misfortune to have to get up close to one..... Nick
  11. Just about..... a torch and/or a stray input shaft would be very helpful! Nick
  12. Note that 3 rail, 3 synchro boxes (Herald, Spit 1 - 3) are very different inside compared to 3 rail, 4 synchro as used in Mk4 Spit and earlier Dolly/Toledo 1300/1500 with few (if any) interchangeable parts.   gears, shafts etc are interchangeable between 4 synchro boxes, whether 3 rail change or single rail change, provided swapped as sets.  The single rail parts are stronger in general. Close ratio sets are used in GT6/Vitesse in single rail form (D-type OD where fitted) plus early Dolly 1850 with J-type OD.  Same ratios but wider gears/bigger synchros/bigger mainshaft tip bearing used in later 1850, TR7 4 speed (and Marina 1800/Ital 1700?).  Can be fitted in 3 rail casing (4 synchro) and used with 3 rail change. Wide ratio gearsets used in Herald and Spits 1 - 3 in 3 rail, 3 synchro form. (D type OD where fitted) Mk 4 Spit and 1300/1500 Dolly/Toledo in 3 rail 4, synchro form (either D or J type OD fitted where fitted) Spit 1500, Later Dolly/Toledo 1300/1500 (1300 Marina, 1500 Midget), single rail, 4 synchro.  J-type OD where fitted. Close ratios can be used in cars that originally had wide if the input shaft if modified (shortened, reduced diameter, re-splined).  First gear can be a bit tall for hill starts...... Many combinations possible...... probably other variants I don't know about! Nick
  13. Already said I can do a west country one.  Did Badgers Holt last year but doesn't have to be that one. Nick
  14. Input shaft bearing falling to bits?  I've had that once in the past.  Check your spigot bearing (in back of crank) is good.  That might be all it is. Still have to drop the lay-gear to change it though Nick
  15. piman wrote:Hello Nick, my 3 litre Scimitar is rated at 132bhp, it doesn't feel as lively as my (slightly tweaked) P.I. saloon. Also quite a lazy sort of engine in standard form. Alec Not sure how the Reliant compares in weight to the saloon? 3 litre has lots of low end torque but soon runs out of puff - bit like the 125 horse PI is suspect.  132 horse PI engine keeps on going........  Years ago, a friend had a Capri 3.0S with some sort of Weslake tuned lump in there - now that did go very well (have no idea what the hp was) but had a catastrophic drink problem!  He ran out of brakes one night on a scatter rally and flattened a lot of hedge with it - and that was then end of that. Ford SA used to put the 2.5 version in mk3 "Big Six" Cortina  and later on in the mk4 as the XR6 (latter may have been 3L, I forget).  They made a nice noise and gave relaxed progress but were also very thirsty and were reputed to have "interesting" handling.  Petrol was cheap and the roads straightish. A yowling straight 6 does the business for me - v6 not far behind  :) Nick
  16. You can get 6" on Heralds and Vitesses provided the offset/ET is right.  I think more than that may be pushing it without arch mods unless you get the offset spot-on. I have 6" with ET13 on my Vitesse with 175/70 tyres.  Fronts rub on bulkhead and arch lips occasionally if well loaded but the car is already lowered. Nick
  17. Hope your Spit rack has a 7 tooth one in it....... reCONditioners seem oblivious to the differences! Nick
  18. ajp wrote: Nick up for a pint of Mugley Wuggly in the Burtle in with me and Homer ?!! Might manage to pop by tomorrow PM if you are about....... on a mission to Wales - bloody Welsh Water murdering my pumps.... Nick
  19. GT6_Don wrote:"...with the remains of an Olympic stud" and "...sliding member" Sounds like I've just stumbled on to dodgy site! It's all in the mind of the beholder.....  :P Nick
  20. Ford V6...... (even) heavier and thirstier than a Triumph 6 and not necessarily more powerful.  As Clive says, plenty of better options.  I'm liking the Zetec SE route. 1.6 from Focus / 1.7 from Puma - light, all alloy construction 100+ bhp standard 140+ easy to achieve. Nick
  21. Have you swapped the steering arms on the uprights for manual steering ones?  Not sure that this is what is causing your problem, but they are different and you don't want PAS arms with manual rack or vice-versa. Can compare Spit and saloon racks if you need - I have both, though the saloon one is attached to a car which could make it interesting! Nick
  22. Richard_B wrote: In a Triumph box 4th is 1 to 1. with O/D adding an extra gear. Presumably in a Type 9 4th is also 1 - 1 with 5th being comparable to O/D? One for James Carruthers to add to his spreadsheet? Yep, 4th in T9 is 1:1 and 5th is 0.82:1 This compares with OD which is 0.8:1 (actually D type 0.802 and J-type 0.797) or 5th on a Toyota W58 at 0.78:1.  And yes, I know there is another variant of the J-type which is taller but I can't find the number just now...... Nick
  23. Am I right in thinking that the rack isn't quite where Triumph intended it these days?  That could have an influence.   How sure are you that it really is a saloon rack?  The ones from the small chassis cars look very similar (as do TR ones), but I don't think the track rods are the same length.  Not sure which are longer/shorter tbh but there may be solution lurking in there somewhere? Cheers Nick Edit, the only part of the Spitfire rack you need is the pinion (7 teeth) which is a direct replacement for the original 6 tooth.
  24. Nah.... probably using it for medical purposes.....  :P I'd be inclined to work on the devil you know - at least you know it doesn't howl like a banshee!  And while you're in there, have a good look at the cupped thrust washers on the little gears - the fibre ones just vanish and the yellow metal ones get eaten by GL5 oils - either way you get a big clunk..... Nick
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