Nick Jones

You need the seal AND the seal carrier......  The good news is that the end result should be more oil-tight than what you had before  :) Nick

Eagerbeaver wrote: Yes, the fuel enrichment lever is fully home. You wouldn't guess that from the numbers you're getting!  Plenty of room for improvement there..... Nick

Check for inlet air leaks before condemning carb setup? Nick

Richard_B wrote:As you've got that far I would definitely change the pinion seal. CW sells the leather seal. Which should be avoided because they leak horribly!  Go for the modern lip seal and save yourself repeating the job.  And yes, I did soak the thing in oil for about 2 days before fitting it! Nick Edit:  The side shaft bearings are pretty long lasting.  Easy to tell if they are ok when the shaft is removed, if they spin smoothly and with minimal play.  If you decide they do need renewal then be aware that they are a very tight fit on the shaft - to the extent that special bearings are used to allow for the stretch of the inner race when it's pushed onto the shaft! N

If you were trying to fit a 1500 clutch to a flat flywheel then all is explained.  1500 has a "pot clutch" which needs a raised rim on the flywheel (5 - 6mm IIRC), so without that it will have been considerably over-compressed and probably bottom out before reaching the flywheel  - which it did. The clues were all in your first post in fact - should have spotted it  :B Nick

Yes. Earlier ones have a scroll type seal and later ones have a proper lip seal.  The scroll/lip seal are located in the bellhousing and each needs a different size shaft.  I can't remember which is larger, but a look in your bell-housing will show which type it wants. The actual seal carrier is separate from the bell-housing and could be tapped out and swapped for the matching one.  I'd only suggest doing this if it gets you an upgrade to the lip seal..... Nick

I found the problem to be the rivets not pulling down flat as the nose of my rivet gun was to fat to go in the channel.  Had to make a nose extension for it so I could push on the rivet head - problem solved Nick

I found the problem to be the rivets not pulling down flat as the nose of my rivet gun was to fat to go in the channel.  Had to make a nose extension for it so I could push on the rivet head - problem solved Nick

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p692/MGB533-M1144-FORD/LANCIA/VAUX/product_info.html or here I think (check!!) http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=9782&osCsid=enor63pohfl7jpstpephv6hjo4 or here http://www.raceparts-direct.com/products/brakes_and_brake_components.asp?section=Mintex+Brake+Pads Note that there are plenty of plain old MGB533 pads listed cheaper - you need to make sure you are getting the Mintex M1144 compound. Nick

If you are allowed programmable ignition then it's a no-brainer.  MJL is king.  However, the mappable 123 (not the one with switchable curves) does much the same thing.  Costs more, but easier to install.  My only caveat on the 123 is that with a big cam and webers you might do better to use a throttle position sensor rather than manifold pressure to sense engine load. I disagree with the common racer (and race tuner) opinion that 3D timing (ie with engine load input) is of no benefit on a racecar. Are you sure you TDC mark is in the right place?  Having said that, an engine with a wild cam will have v poor cylinder filling at idle and will thus want lots of advance (though 30º does seem like quite a bit!).  Wouldn't have thought it will start with that much advance though as it will tend to try and run backwards, which makes the starter unhappy!  An big advantage of programmable ignition is that you can accommodate these odd timing needs, which can go a long way to making a wild cam more civilised and tractable low down. Nick

Same casing as 1850 single-rail unit.  Basically same OD too though I suspect the operating pressure will be different.  1850 gearbox could be used as a donor (same mainshaft as well) but seems like a bit of a waste..... Nick

Yes, float height is set by different thickness washers under the neede valve.  PITA! Fuel pressure is also important.  SUs prefer around 2psi only.  Many pumps supplied today are more like 4 - 5psi. Nick

If you are going fuse headlights, fuse the left and right separately to minimise the chance of being left in the dark by one blowing bulb popping the fuse...... Nick

Don't reckon they'll be too bad - I've seen MUCH worse bearings than that, replaced them and all has been well.  Question I'd be asking is which one of those was causing a knock..... Nick

The diaphragm fingers have to move inwards to work so the 1mm to the spline hub is definitely a problem!  Friction plate in backwards? If it's not I reckon it's the wrong one and too thick.  Are the pressure plate and friction plate supposed to be part of a set? Not sure I'm understanding you on the concentricity question........  :-/ Nick

Jason wrote: You're scarred by Nigel Gair's 4 HIDs on the 10CR - they were impressive but we had more than one dodgy adjuster and struggled to keep them aimed properly - sorry  8) They may have had a hand in forming my opinion  :P Those tall, chelsea tractory things driving 3 foot from the back bumper don't help either - can usually get away on the twisty bits but not always in a straight line.... Nick

I find that the 5 3/4" Halogens I've got on both cars are absolutely excellent even with standard bulbs  - far better than either of our moderns (even my wife commented on the PI lights recently!) - so inclined to question the need for HiD.  Can't say I particularly enjoy other people HiD lights either.  Maybe you need HiD so you can still see after being zapped by someone elses HiD.....  :-/ Nick

Maybe so.  Bloke I was talking to was not the original purchaser of the system, just dealing with what came with car and trying to make it work properly.  Also suspect that it had been messed with (and messed up) after leaving Revington as I'm sure he'd have not let it out unless it was working properly and that is not how it was described! Nick

Was talking to a guy at the weekend who has Weber (Alpha system) TBs in his TR5.  He has 6 x 50mm (!!) throttle butterflies and was wondering why his throttle response is a bit sudden at the bottom end!  He'd already tried modding the linkage to slow the response, but had run out of room to extend it any further.  He'd also swapped the Weber ECU for an Emerald as the latter was cheaper than a couple of rolling road sessions at a Weber approved dealer (no-one else is allowed Weber mapping software!). Had come from the PO with the full Weber Alpha system (Revington installed) but plenty of issues. Nick

Yes, it's the CP cam.  You can get something very similar direct from Newman which might be a little cheaper. Nick

1874 wrote: Well heres a bit of panic for you, 1500tc auto off road 15 years, wants n/s chassis leg , n/s outer sill and reinforcer and lower sill no brakes all pipes want replacing, no exhaust rear pipe , all tyres past it, all water hoses want replacing, next to no paint on it it was DA'd off 15 years ago then left outside, beige cloth seats fallen apart. and all ive got done up to now is cut the rot off the sill ready for the new sill that i have, i have had it running though, sounds sweet at 45000 miles from new. I will be cracking on with it now im inside the last month. :o if not ready i will have to use the 2000 ;) Sounds like the 2000 then - unless you have the month off work!  :P Nick

To put it very crudely, the longer the valves are open for and the further they open, the more air gets in the engine and the more power you get, The catch is that there is only a limited amount of time for the valve to be open. ie piston needs to be traveling in the right direction to be sucking or blowing, so if you leave the valves open too long then you can get the some of the air you just sucked in being blown back out again.  That effect is much worse at low rpm as at high rpm/air flows the air's own momentum helps stop this happening.  You can then also increase the amount of "overlap" where the inlet and exhaust valve are briefly open together so that the momentum of the departing exhaust gas can produce a "suck through" effect on the inlet. Short duration cams are good at trapping all the gas at low rpm as they don't keep the valves open long enough to allow any charge to be lost to reverse flow.  This helps give a good steady idle, strong low-end torque and lower emissions.  They loose out to longer duration cams at higher rpm by not exploiting the extra flow potential available from the extra open time and gas momentum. Very long duration cams (290º+) are poor at trapping gas at low rpm due to lots of reverse flow.  They will have a rough, loping idle, relatively poor low down torque and poor emissions at low rpm (though not necessarily at high rpm).  Once the revs come up though, they produce alot more torque due to the extra valve open time and gas momentum packing more charge into the cylinders. In between are the various compromises attempting to give the best blend of the above characteristics. The 307621 is 10/50 and the shortest duration/lowest lift of the lot.  It's an emissions cam and has nothing to commend it but a smooth idle.  It's used in the 2500S and late 2000s and probably in later US export models 306785 is 18/58 and another common one used in mainly non-sporting or emissions-compromised pretend-sporting applications.  Better than the above...... a bit.  Earlier 2000s used this one. (and Mk 4 spit) 311399 is also 18/58 but has a bit more lift as an attempt to claw back some lost grunt.  Used in late PIs and late UK Tr6s (CR).  Strong low end but runs out of puff at 4500rpm.  Also called the 125 bhp cam (in a 2.5) 308778 is 25/65 and at 270º is a pretty sporty cam for a 60s OEM offering. Vit/GT6 Mk2 and Mk1/earlier mk2 PI use these to good effect. Gives a good compromise between docile, torquey low end while still managing a strong mid-range and pretty fair top end.  Makes 132 bhp (ish) in the PI application and 104 bhp in the 2L engines though with careful engine preparation, a well modded head and the right induction and exhaust, up to 140 bhp is possible from the 2L using this cam. 307689 is 35/65 and the "king" of the OE cams.  As used in TR5/early6 (CP) and much transplanted into PI saloons.  Also used to good effect in carburetted 2.5s and 2.0s though possibly with a bit of character at the bottom end.  Supposed to give 150bhp though 140 - 145 probably more realistic.  Not easy to find in good condition these days.  Newman do a near copy which apparently works well. I like the 308778 myself and have them in both 2.5 and 2.0 engines, both injected.  The 2L makes about 120 bhp.  The 2.5 is as yet untested but seems to go well  :)  If this cam has a fault it is that it could do with a little more lift, especially on the inlet.  This can be achieved with roller rockers or I think Chris Witor does a re-profiled one with a bit more lift.  Original ones in good condition are getting scarce. Cheers Nick

To put it very crudely, the longer the valves are open for and the further they open, the more air gets in the engine and the more power you get, The catch is that there is only a limited amount of time for the valve to be open. ie piston needs to be traveling in the right direction to be sucking or blowing, so if you leave the valves open too long then you can get the some of the air you just sucked in being blown back out again.  That effect is much worse at low rpm as at high rpm/air flows the air's own momentum helps stop this happening.  You can then also increase the amount of "overlap" where the inlet and exhaust valve are briefly open together so that the momentum of the departing exhaust gas can produce a "suck through" effect on the inlet. Short duration cams are good at trapping all the gas at low rpm as they don't keep the valves open long enough to allow any charge to be lost to reverse flow.  This helps give a good steady idle, strong low-end torque and lower emissions.  They loose out to longer duration cams at higher rpm by not exploiting the extra flow potential available from the extra open time and gas momentum. Very long duration cams (290º+) are poor at trapping gas at low rpm due to lots of reverse flow.  They will have a rough, loping idle, relatively poor low down torque and poor emissions at low rpm (though not necessarily at high rpm).  Once the revs come up though, they produce alot more torque due to the extra valve open time and gas momentum packing more charge into the cylinders. In between are the various compromises attempting to give the best blend of the above characteristics. The 307621 is 10/50 and the shortest duration/lowest lift of the lot.  It's an emissions cam and has nothing to commend it but a smooth idle.  It's used in the 2500S and late 2000s and probably in later US export models 306785 is 18/58 and another common one used in mainly non-sporting or emissions-compromised pretend-sporting applications.  Better than the above...... a bit.  Earlier 2000s used this one. (and Mk 4 spit) 311399 is also 18/58 but has a bit more lift as an attempt to claw back some lost grunt.  Used in late PIs and late UK Tr6s (CR).  Strong low end but runs out of puff at 4500rpm.  Also called the 125 bhp cam (in a 2.5) 308778 is 25/65 and at 270º is a pretty sporty cam for a 60s OEM offering. Vit/GT6 Mk2 and Mk1/earlier mk2 PI use these to good effect. Gives a good compromise between docile, torquey low end while still managing a strong mid-range and pretty fair top end.  Makes 132 bhp (ish) in the PI application and 104 bhp in the 2L engines though with careful engine preparation, a well modded head and the right induction and exhaust, up to 140 bhp is possible from the 2L using this cam. 307689 is 35/65 and the "king" of the OE cams.  As used in TR5/early6 (CP) and much transplanted into PI saloons.  Also used to good effect in carburetted 2.5s and 2.0s though possibly with a bit of character at the bottom end.  Supposed to give 150bhp though 140 - 145 probably more realistic.  Not easy to find in good condition these days.  Newman do a near copy which apparently works well. I like the 308778 myself and have them in both 2.5 and 2.0 engines, both injected.  The 2L makes about 120 bhp.  The 2.5 is as yet untested but seems to go well  :)  If this cam has a fault it is that it could do with a little more lift, especially on the inlet.  This can be achieved with roller rockers or I think Chris Witor does a re-profiled one with a bit more lift.  Original ones in good condition are getting scarce. Cheers Nick

I buy QH wheel bearing kits from my local motor factor.  Not very cheap, but QH still use Timken.  First Line don't.  Not a big First Line fan........ First Line TCA's for C4 A6 last < 15k miles/1 year before the ball joints are knackered - OE Audi ones lasted 186k / 14 years.  It is true that they are 1/6th of the price but they are a bitch to change. I did try my local bearing supplier with the Timken numbers for GT6/Vit/T2000 - but his prices were more than double the QH kits without any of the extra bits like grease seals (QH felt seals are the same shite as all the other suppliers though!) Don't have any Spit/Herald bearings to check for numbers - sorry. Cheers Nick

I had this very discussion about 15 years back with my very local tyre place (now gone). Trouble with tubeless tyres is that they have ridges on the inside walls which rub holes in the tubes....... doesn't take all that long either.  That is the only time I've ever had problems with tubeless tyres on non-safety ledge rims - when I put tubes in them - and that wasn't my idea!  The tyre place got feedback (oh yeah!) and never gave me any more hassle on that matter! Even without the safety ledges the tyres will not come off when properly inflated - I guess the risk is much increased if already going down due to a slow puncture. Nick