Nick Jones
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Everything posted by Nick Jones
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To fit that you'll effectively be drilling two sizes up in the bridge piece - which is pushing it in my opinion. Nick
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Bottom thread on the timing cover goes into the centre hole in the bridge piece. This is a blind hole as standard. I've just measured one at 18mm deep. Front plate adds about 4.5mm. I think it would be better not to go right through (swarf into sump if you do). Standard thread is 5/16UNF as you said. Other than helicoiling the options are M10 x 1.5 (official tapping drill size 8.4mm) or the slightly smaller but harder to find 3/8" UNC (tapping drill size 5/16"). There are thread repair kits on ebay for approx £ 16. Nick
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Thanks Andy. I settled on 65 lb/ft in the end. May yet get some ARP ones though....... Looking forward to the next installment of the 2.1 screamer..... but seems like you have several projects all at exciting stages! Cheers Nick
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Just set in the usual way but may need a bit more twiddling than usual - shouldn't be a big deal. Note that if non-Triumph cam the specified clearances may be different from the Triumph book figures - check the data sheet that came with the cam (probably).... Cheers Nick
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I'm assuming you're talking about leaks from the point where the rubber hoses attach to the top of the float chambers? On the top of the float bowls, in the same boss that holds the stub connections for the feed pipes, there are small vent drillings - which also serve as overflows. Could it be coming from there? If so, it means that the needle valves are leaking. This could be because - they have dirt in them - they are old and tired (wear ridge on the cone section of the moving part) - Floats don't float any more - Fuel pressure too high. SUs only like about 1 - 2psi and some of the pumps sold today produce a fair bit more, forcing the valves open. Cheers Nick
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Surprised they went to 90lbs - felt like something was going to give way when I tried earlier...... I've got a bust crank and some stray bolts of the same type so perhaps I'll try an experiment with those and measure bolt length before and after. The bolts I have (standard ones) do have short shanks on them - probably 1/2 - 2/3 the depth of the flywheel. The torque should be transmitted by the friction between the two tightly clamped surfaces in any case - elongated holes/damaged bolts indicates bolts not tight enough. Twin dowels is a nice idea. Nick
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Matt, Re the fitting of the Subaru diff, there was some discussion on this subject on the Sideways forum a while back here http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/5171-nicks-us-spec-gt6/page__st__20 This has unfortunately lost it's pictures but the one I refer to in post 35 is shown below. Might be worth contacting Nick Moore as it's his GT6 resto that's getting this treatment (see the "dipped in green glass" thread). I know he has Roto vertical links modified to take R100/MGF hubs, and shafts but I don't know if he's resolved how they are going to link to the Subaru diff yet. As regards the use of the complete MGF hub, have you seen the way that John Davies has done his? This is elegant in that all of the adaption work for the bottom of the link is in the special fabricated wishbone, meaning that there is no need to mod the bottom of the vertical link. I have some pictures somewhere but can't find them at present. I though KD and Mike Bestard were working on a Subaru diff conversion kit? Cheers Nick
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Gearbox oil has a distinctive sulphurous smell. It's particularly acrid when burning off exhausts I find...... Engine oil has a sweeter, exhausty smell. Also likely to be darker in colour, though after a journey through the bell housing that might not be a very reliable indicator. Nick
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That's a fairly normal reaction to Demon Tweaks prices......... They know how to charge alright! Nick
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Well, I'm a bit wary of that 90 - 95lb/ft figure. I think it's too high and wonder if it's a misprint and should be Nm :-/ Having now tried for a 90 lb/ft setting on one bolt, it was seeming to want to go alot further (normally just a relatively few degrees is all it takes, especially on short bolts like these with limited stretch), so I stopped and looked up general bolt info. This site http://www.leytonfasteners.co.uk/pdfs/TorqueValueGuide.pdf seems to be showing max torque for 7/16" grade S @ 50 lb/ft and even T grade would only be 55ish. Don't know what grade these bolts are - main bearing bolts are marked S. Even ARP have a maximum specified torque for their very strongest grade material of 90 lb/ft....... and that will be alot stronger than the OE bolt. Nick
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Thanks :) Indeed I do not want them working loose........ or snapping off either. They're 55 lb/ft now so I'll nip them up a bit more. It's not the Haynes that is right Colin - the nearest Haynes is the GT6 Mk 3 @ 50 - 75 lb/ft - which is such a wide margin it sounds like a blind guess anyway! Cheers Nick
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Rocker cover is a favourite spot, but if you are sure it isn't that, there are sometimes leaks from the rear of the head to block joint (head gasket), in the nearside corner, due to the oilway up to the rocker gear which is in that corner. Can be a similar looking effect from general weepage on that side of the head gasket running back to that corner. There is also a oil-way plug in the back of the head (on nearside) which looks like an ordinary hex head bolt with a copper washer. Might be worth checking it's tight/has a copper washer though I reckon this is a long-shot. Slightly leaky head gasket is the most likely. I'd ignore it unless it's a big leak (rare) or you have other reasons to lift the head. Triumphs do like to mark their territory..... If you give that area a good clean and take it for a short drive the source should become a bit more obvious. Cheers Nick
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Getting close to finishing the PI bottom end. Just fitting the flywheel and checked the torque specs. Getting a large degree of conflict from different sources. Mk1 factory manual says 42 - 46lb ft (I thought this seemed a bit light so checked elsewhere) Haynes 2000/2500 manual says 50 lb/ft Haynes Vitesse/GT6 manual says 42- 46 for 1600, 2000 mk1 & 2, but 50 - 75 lb/ft for GT6 Mk3 Unipart 2000 manual says 90 - 95 lb/ft. (this seems like rather alot) So what the hell should it really be?! Thanks Nick
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HIF SU preferable to HS in my book. Nick
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I think Chris told me to put the tight coils at the top so the the dirt didn't rub between the coils. I like them. Much better ride than the ones that were on it before even though the ride height seems about the same. Dunno exactly what was fitted before mind...... they were red and came with the car...... Nick
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I think Chris told me to put the tight coils at the top so the the dirt didn't rub between the coils. I like them. Much better ride than the ones that were on it before even though the ride height seems about the same. Dunno exactly what was fitted before mind...... they were red and came with the car...... Nick
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I think that one of the older Hyundais shares that body shape...... mainly because it was basically the same car. Retro Rides...... someone will buy 'em! Nick
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Advertise on the Retro Rides forum - they cater for ALL tastes on there! Nick
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If you engine is as early as the car in your sig ('60) then I don't think you have a rear crank seal as such. It will be a scroll type mechanical thing and unlikely to be influenced by any of these products. The gearbox input shaft has the same arrangement and is perhaps more likely to get oil on the clutch, being on the same side of the flywheel. In my experience it takes a big leak from the engine to cause clutch problems. Probably worth investigating things like engine and gearbox mounts first...... but the early coil spring clutches are not perfect devices in the first place.... Nick
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I don't see the point of chopping the bottom of the carrier off. The lugs on there don't suit a single wishbone design it is true, but then you aren't using a single wishbone. IIRC, Marcus' twin link design doesn't use a radius arm (third link) and could be adapted to work with the existing MGF carrier. Myself, I'd be looking closely at the original MGF lower arm layout as I believe it can be adapted to suit the Triumph chassis and it doesn't need the 3rd link. You might even be able to adapt the MGF arms? Cheers Nick
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Hmmm, just because they exist doesn't mean they are a good idea. IMO the 2.5 is all about lazy torque low down, hopefully moving up to real mid-range punch. Kent describe the TH7 as a "race" cam and their own info gives a powerband of 3750 - 8000 rpm. Realistic redline for a stock based 2.5 engine is 6000 rpm. It will be lumpy as hell at the bottom end, you might tame it to an extent with electronics but getting a PI metering unit to work with it will be a horror. There are also those who regard any Kent product for Triumph as an expensive way to fill your sump with swarf and knacker your oil pump...... I've had a TH3 in a Herald engine and that was still ok after 20k - bar a couple of lightly pitted followers. Advantage of using Triumph/Triumph derived profiles such as 132 hp PI cam or TR5 cam is that the MU details are well known and work. They will also deliver decent grunt low down and mid-range where you can enjoy it all the time. If you want something that will "rev to Smiths" best to stick with 2L, but I still reckon you'd struggle to enjoy a TH7 on the road. For info, friend has just built a TR6 engine with a Newman PH1 (very mild) and electronic management. In between slaying gremlins we managed a short run up the road last night and it certainly does go....... idles like a clock at 700rpm too. Nick
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Hmmm, just because they exist doesn't mean they are a good idea. IMO the 2.5 is all about lazy torque low down, hopefully moving up to real mid-range punch. Kent describe the TH7 as a "race" cam and their own info gives a powerband of 3750 - 8000 rpm. Realistic redline for a stock based 2.5 engine is 6000 rpm. It will be lumpy as hell at the bottom end, you might tame it to an extent with electronics but getting a PI metering unit to work with it will be a horror. There are also those who regard any Kent product for Triumph as an expensive way to fill your sump with swarf and knacker your oil pump...... I've had a TH3 in a Herald engine and that was still ok after 20k - bar a couple of lightly pitted followers. Advantage of using Triumph/Triumph derived profiles such as 132 hp PI cam or TR5 cam is that the MU details are well known and work. They will also deliver decent grunt low down and mid-range where you can enjoy it all the time. If you want something that will "rev to Smiths" best to stick with 2L, but I still reckon you'd struggle to enjoy a TH7 on the road. For info, friend has just built a TR6 engine with a Newman PH1 (very mild) and electronic management. In between slaying gremlins we managed a short run up the road last night and it certainly does go....... idles like a clock at 700rpm too. Nick
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Rip off RBR! Mway service station prices
Nick Jones replied to shedmonkey's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
There's a petrol station just off M5 J25 as well - usually competitive and Sainsburys just 1/4 mile away with a cheap Shell station and a Morrisons at 1mile. Nick -
Having soaked them in Plus Gas (WD40 will NOT do) for a good long time and applied your two nuts, before trying to turn them, give them a couple of good firm thwacks on the end with a hammer (as if trying to hit them down into the engine. This helps break whatever corrosion seal is present. Works for me on the 6 cyl engines. Nick
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Could still be electrical - the engine and box will move around under torque reaction and are possibly leaning on wiring somewhere? Power on/off will also move the gear selection mechanism slightly which could have this effect if the inhibitor switch adjustment is marginal. Might be able to replicate the last one by wiggling the gear lever? Nick