Nick Jones
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Everything posted by Nick Jones
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:o Never seen that before! Nick
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Those look good. I'll have a pair if (when?) I break the Fiesta ones! I did see some that looked like that on an industrial supplies website but none with matching dimensions. Nick
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Good find! My Fiesta engine mounts are still looking fine - and they only cost £ 8.50 the pair..... But I've only done about 500 miles and no rally stages, so can't consider them fully tested yet :P. The Fiesta mounts have M10 studs and they fitted the engine front-plate no bother so you should be ok there. Nick
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Indeed......! Nick
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Generally a (smallish) increase in negative camber as the suspension compresses is considered an advantage - because it tends the keep the most tyre tread on the road when cornering. Nick Like the test rig :)
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piman wrote:Hello Nick, very true but the disadvantage is the restriction on rate compared to the relatively cheap and varied coil sizes available. Alec Sure, but as you are mostly wanting to increase the rate, retain the leaf spring and add coil-overs to assist. Also, I've had some success in the past adding leaves (some upside down) to increase the rate. IMO, doing away with the spring altogether just leads to location issues. Nick
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Think those are pics of the KD Triumph one John. My own opinion is that there isn't too much wrong with the transverse leaf. Leaf springs are rising rate and self damping (to an extent) and will also do a better job of locating the upper end of the vertical link than anything short of a true upper wishbone. Nick
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Collessie? My Grandfather lived there for quite a few years (mid 70s to mid 80s) in the old station house. Nick
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Collessie? My Grandfather lived there for quite a few years (mid 70s to mid 80s) in the old station house. Nick
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Twin 40 Webers on a standard 13/60 engine will increase induction noise and fuel consumption, but not alot else. If you are keeping the engine standard or near standard then the log manifold and HS4 SU from a Dolly 1300 or better (but much rarer) the HS6 from a 1500 is an improvement on the original Stromberg. I'd probably use an HIF 44 in place of the HS6 though. Alternatively a pair of SU HS2s from a Spit Mk3 or 4 will go on fairly easily. Not sure they'll add much to a standard 13/60 though. I have a pair of these if you're looking...... A good while ago now I had a 1300 Herald with a fairly highly tuned engine. I experimented with single SU (HS4 & HIF44), 2 x HS2 (1.25") and 2 x HS4 (1.5"). Both single carbs gave better bottom end and economy, with the HIF44 also easily equaling the twin HS2 for top end. The 2 x HS4s only really gained over 6000rpm, but then that engine revved to 7k. I only tried twin 40s briefly: they were borrowed and although they also came from a Triumph 1300, it was more of a race tune and they didn't really add much to mine apart from the aforementioned induction noise (nice) and epic thirst (not so nice). Nick
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339 wrote:"If you need much more than 6k on your 2.5 one could argue that you've tuned it wrong" Who said anything about "need"????? My setup goes very well indeed as some found out on the RBRR. I just thought that if the engine has to come apart for new thrust washers then why not try and get more revs 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) Hence the "want" in brackets :P I understand it's fairly nippy already ;). Given that you've got plenty of grunt, perhaps you just need taller 1st and second gears - they are available for the T9 and cheaper than billet cranks! Are your thrust washers definitely dead? Nick
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Julian, Do you consider the R160 strong enough for Stag/Saloon use? Doesn't look as beefy as the original offering? Nick
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I was under the impression that the 2.5 crank has a torsional resonance issue somewhere in the upper 6ks which means a very short fatigue life is used over that point. May be controllable using a decent torsional damper (that factory one isn't sufficient) but these are also pretty pricey to do properly. If you need much more than 6k on your 2.5 one could argue that you've tuned it wrong :P If you really need (want) more grunt then how about a super/turbo charger ;) but better have a spare engine or two (I have a spare 2.5 engine needing rebuild that needs a good home) Nick
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The problem isn't availability - lots and lots of part numbers will work. The problem is that the older cars are being dropped from the listings so can't be cross referenced. Nick
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Completion Statistics
Nick Jones replied to Tim Bancroft's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Jason wrote: Probably due to overloading onto old components that are quite hard to check for fatigue? Possibly, though according to rumour, some of them weren't very old...... Nick -
Yes, main cast iron casting is the same. Also later Dolly 1850 and probably various Marina, Midget 1500 etc. Nick
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Completion Statistics
Nick Jones replied to Tim Bancroft's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Rate of attrition seems relatively low with some usual favourites absent. Number of swing axle driveshaft/rwb failures seems disproportionate though. Nick -
What to do at controls
Nick Jones replied to Deleted User's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
By the time they got to Badgers Holt almost everyone had the roadbook thing sussed and handed them to me open on the right page. For which I thank them! The queue was quite long at times! My youngest son would like to know whether the 2000(?) saloon which he helped push (!!) up the hill out of Badgers Holt actually made it up the hill unassisted after that..... and whether the passenger last seen running after it ever caught it...... we didn't see either on our way out so presumably they did! Nick -
If this is the same flange on the same spline - it should fit. One possibility is that it wants to go on in a particular way. Have you tried rotating one spline at a time? Second is that you've somehow put a small burr on either the pinion spline (most likely while extracting the old oil seal) or inside the flange. If you can see where it's picking up you may be able to dress out the burr with a fine file (make sure the filings are kept out of the diff bearing!!) I don't see anything wrong with using the nut to pull it on provided it pulls up easily (one hand on a normal length ratchet at most). Nick
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Looks superb - you need this finished for next years 10CR!! ('cause I want a proper look at it! :)) Nick
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27 & 56 didn't start. Not sure about 72. 23 crashed. According to hearsay, rumour and the message board, 4, 5, 68 & 88 (more than 60% of terminal breakdowns) all swing axle cars, expired due to some form of driveshaft failure. Which is a pretty striking result. No doubt this will be properly researched in due course! Nick
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Rescued from Lands End
Nick Jones replied to GrayFox's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
I think it was Bill and Steve (Vitesse) who suffered the escaped rear corner. Probably started with a broken UJ but suspect it will need more than a replacement driveshaft assembly to fix...... Nick -
That's definitely dead! New or good SH shaft needed. You might manage to swap a good yoke from an otherwise damaged used shaft but I wouldn't bet on it...... they are pinned and the pin takes some shifting and then take some shifting themselves, and then you've still got to get it back together so it will stay together (very definitely a safety-critical joint). Might have an old shaft you can have a play with but if you are paying someone else to do it I reckon a new shaft will be cheaper in the end. I see you are in Bristol - are you dealing with Nigel at HJ Chard? Nick
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Rescued from Lands End
Nick Jones replied to GrayFox's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Mark & Andy were still going after Badgers Holt, though somewhat behind schedule. Car seemed to have a fairly epic oil leak and I suspect Mark may take the "reddest eyes of the weekend" award...... Hope they make it - certainly deserving full marks for effort - along with those who helped them get the car drivable again! I also had a call from a 13/60 estate owner who'd had a failed rw bearing nr Truro and was looking for an emergency driveshaft...... seems there have been quite few Herald driveshaft failures this time.... Nick -
Well, the single part (shaft plus yoke) would be this http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=HALFSHAFT%20HER/VIT%206/I/GT6I/SPIT%20I/II/III Not sure that includes the other yoke and UJ. Note that this part is the same as spitfire 1,2 & 3, early (short shaft) mk4, all Heralds and Mk1 Vitesse & GT6. The larger UJ flange is used on Vitesse/GT6 Mk1 and Spit Mk4 (early short shaft). The other pain is that changing this also involves dismantling the hub..... which involves a special puller to get the hub flange off without damage. Seriously - if there is still enough meat left in the existing yoke to hold the UJ cups firmly then you'll be better off using thicker Circlips and /or shims to control the end-float. SH shaft assembly is another route but they need to be from Mk1 Vitesse/GT6 to match the brake size. Cheers Nick