Nick Jones

1300FWD or RWD? If RWD it’s possible the engine is actually a 1500 (or has a 1500 flywheel) which is different and requires a pre-engaged starter. If FWD, you need to take a really close look at the ring gear on the front of the engine and it’s mountings to the front pulley and check it’s running straight and true without excessive flex. Nick

I think there was a fairly short period where green cards were needed but that's been ironed out again. Not sure we were ever in the position of actually needing to get international driving licences though it was threatened. Nick

Thought I must have an in-progress pic somewhere.....

I’ve done it on mine. The boot seal lip had already dissolved in that area so we had the welder pointed at it anyway. Took some 1/2” tube, flattened one end a bit. Welded into the low spots in the corners. bit of hosepipe on the inside and through the boot floor you can just see the ends sticking through, more on left than right. Works just fine. Not so easy to get a decent result without some fairly serious bodywork though. A large part of the rear of my car is homemade….. Nick

Average speed required somewhere in the low 60s. Mostly roads with 70 mph limit, so should be possible at night without any great heroics or illegality. Surely no worse than an all-night scatter rally when it comes to encouraging brisk motoring..... HCR anyone? Nick

1972 Citroen Dyane 6….. in 1987, for £95. Not a great example but very practical. Had a rather wonder feature called a “trafficlutch”. That is a centrifugal clutch as well as the conventional clutch, so you could creep in traffic using the throttle only, like an auto. It was very slow and very economical. It was replaced with a 1965 Herald 1200, which was much less economical and only marginally faster. Nick

Jet being 2mm down isn’t that unusual, still needing choke to run (once warm presumably?) is. Did the carbs come with the engine and was it a known good runner before? Inlet manifold air leak at the head joint? Nick

Another Brexit “dividend” 🙄

Sounds like the car Triumph should have made 🙂 Good luck with the sale. Suggest advertising on Car & Classic site if not already. Nick

What Dave (and others) said. I’ve done it both ways (quite close together in time) and taking it out of the top leaving the ‘box in place was easier and quicker. You do have to lower the cross-member and the top few bell housing bolts are a pest (very long extensions for your socket set required), but otherwise straightforward enough. Your crane/hoist does need a fair bit of lift though. Nick

The cheapest I can find the carbs only in Europe is on a Dutch Harley site @ €465 each + adapter + tax + shipping. Things like this are often significantly cheaper in the US, so it might be possible to source there though shipping and VAT take the shine off. If I were going the CD carb route in the UK I’d hunt down a pair of the later HIF6 /HIF44 (big improvement on HS) IMO and rebuild those. I do also know a couple of people using Stromberg CD175s with excellent results. They can still be found quite cheaply as people remove them from ex-USA TR6 /TR250s and they aren’t very popular.

Ok..... nice and simple for sure. Looks good. This is using new, genuine Mikunis? From what I can see they are the thick end of £ 500 each, which is more than I spent on my first EFI project including ECU. Chinese ones more like £ 120 each but may not be worth having. There must be some kind of adapter also - is that some kind of rubber neck to bolt flange like this? Nick

2Spec transmissions in Kenilworth. They know and love their Triumphs. http://www.2specgroup.co.uk/ Nick

ON a saloon you can base your EFI on the PI throttle bodies and all the parts exist to make it fit. Or engineer your own. Newman PH2 will be ok with a plenum type and single throttle body. Wilder than that and you'll get a better result from individual ones, though the factory PI ones are a bit big for easy mapping and the factory linkage is just nasty. Nick

If you turn the crank through 360 degrees your timing marks will then line up…… https://m.box.com/shared_item/https%3A%2F%2Fapp.box.com%2Fs%2Fc7mpi50kfcrjo6djmz85 Page 1-126 covers the technique with markings and also the equal lift method. Yes, it’s the 6 cyl manual but same as 4 cyl for our purpose here.

Actually got a set of NGKs doing ok in my GT6. No idea how they ended up in there I usually avoid like the plague as they’ve caused me fair bit of trouble in the past, especially in my PI, which killed lots of them. Just saying don’t assume the plugs are ok just because nearly new…. Nick

It is possible to check the cam timing without removing the timing cover using the equal lift method. From your description of having the valves rocking on #4 with 1 & 4 at TDC, it’s at least close anyway. New NGK spark plugs by any chance? If so take them out and fit something else. If they’ve been flooded /fuel-wetted (and it sounds like they have), they are likely done for ever. Nick

No…. Just do them up tight. And check periodically. Nick

Body parts or chassis? I generally use 20 gauge (0.9mm) for general bodywork areas going up to 18 gauge (1.2mm) for higher load areas (body mounts etc) and 16 gauge (1.6mm) for chassis. Nick

Bit of research suggests it’s probably an “Eaglegate” kit which I haven’t come across before. Nick

Some classy fab work there. watching with interest. Surprising how well the combined shape works! Is that an HVDA W58 fitting kit? Nick

Not familiar with the TR7 breather, but presumably it was routed to the atmospheric side of the carbs without any pcv? That being so, what you have replaced it with is pretty much like for like. It is interesting though…. I had a similar issue a couple of weeks ago after swapping my tried and tested plenum manifold with ITBs. The breather system lost its pcv and got routed to the airbox via a catch pot. First drive revealed that I was back to square one on the mapping ….. and it was blowing oil out of all sorts of places. I thought it might be the loss of the pcv (Smiths flying saucer), though I ran it for years with a simple pipe to the air filter without problems before I fitted the Smiths thing. Anyhow, after messing with firmware I now have ITB mode and have the mapping back to something like. Happily, if surprisingly, now the mapping is about there, it’s stopped blowing oil, even though I’ve not changed the breather at all….. So check your mapping. Ignition timing especially I would think…. Nick

There are quite a few bearing variations over the years so best to check the numbers that on the old bearings (both inner and outer races) and match those. Its possible to replace the collapsible spacer in the pinion bearing pack with a solid one and shims if you prefer. I think you should be able to use the early dished thrust washers on the later diff - if you can find some… Nick

Me too. But I was going over a very old floor which was anything but smooth. Didn’t seal it as such but did thin the first coat a fair bit and it soaked in. it’s done pretty well. Except that the newish Falken tyres stick to it and pull it off if you park up while tyres are still hot (can happen with epoxy too) Nick

Could you let us know rough location please? Wouldn’t mind a roof (without sunroof hole)…. Nick