mikeyb

Excellent, I was having the same dilemma as you Clive!

True, but doors, arches, side windows, bumpers differ. For me, I see front lights, bumpers/overiders Mk1 2000; door and side window shape and swaging, arch shapes 1300FWD/Dolomite; rear arch swage and rear end profile from the side Mk2 2000 🙂

I initally thought so too after your comment, but looking at one now, I'm not so sure. The 3 box shape is as far as the similarity goes for me with the front/rear/doors etc being rather different! I did wonder if the Renault design also came from Michelotti, but Google reveals it cam from a Philippe Charbonneaux! Picture credit marktplaats.nl via Pininterest.

Whilst catching up on my reading, I came across an article that mentioned the Hino Contessa. The article itself was interesting but not as much as the pictures! Designed by Michelotti in the 50's, early 60's, a lot of its styling features were surprisingly familiar!

Yes I was going to suggest Raptor also, the Land Rover boys and girls swear by it!

I'll ping a placeholder into the calendar. Let me know when you want it updated or deleted.

Sounds good! Is this going to be a CT organised "keen budget" event or a more expensive 3rd party organised tour?

is that gps? mine is far from spot on - 20mph out at any given speed!

Top job, seriously impressed with your weding and fabricating skills Callan!

I have a 3:63 in my Mk1, a few years ago I took 3 or 4 tired diffs to Mike Papworth, he pulled all the good bits and made me up a 3:63 and a 3:27. Not tried the 3:27 yet bur the 3:63 works well, apart from I cannot find a stock speedo with the correct gearing so the speed indication is well out!

Apparantly I'm the biggest tool in the box 😁 You know what I look like, I won't scare you with a picture .....

Oh rats! That will be the one then 🤔 So interior trim is fairly easy to nail as there were only a few different base colours, the paint on the other hand will have to be identified by eye. At the risk of stating the obvious, the places to find the freshest unfaded paint are door shuts, underside of bootlid and spare wheel well. If you get a chance, polish up a bit of the spare wheel well maybe and post a pic and we'll have another go.

Keep us posted, will be interesting to hear the cause and the cure!

Seams are notouriously difficult to de-rust. The problems arise when the original factory paint/sealer cracks and moisture gets between the spot welds. The trouble with blasting is that it would not have got deep in between the two flat spot welded sections. A phospheric acid neutraliser would have helped as this would potentially find itself between the plates via gravity, however is not without problem in itself as if you do that, it is near impossible to clean all the chemical back off again with the result of possible paint reaction. As VR said, if you paid good money to have it done, then talk to whomever did it. Are you sure that it is rust coming back again or is it paint reaction? If it were mine, I would be tempted to first of all blast as you have done, then phospheric, then wash out with something like Bilt Hamber Atom Mac https://bilthamber.com/product/atom-mac/ Please note that I have not yet tried painting over that combo, so would experiment before doing it for real!