Gt6s

Dave Walker is a self proclaimed ECU expert who runs Emerald. He wrote for Cars and Car Conversions back when it was still published. Also wrote a Haynes manual on the subject (Had a look through that, again not impressed) He mentioned to me I MUST RUN RESISTOR PLUGS with EFI (This is A SERIOUS RFI problem with HIS Emerald ECU) As far as converting a Triumph he probably thought MOTORBIKE a he knew NOTHING AT ALL ABOUT INJECTION ON TRIUMPH CARS. Alan Warbuton was the GO TO GUY at DTA. He knew REALLY well how to convert Triumph throttle bodies and trigger setup arangements to use. He claimed plug wise DTA will run ANY DAM PLUG ON ANY DAM ENGINE (Correct it will) My six would run very happily on even the worst plug. The specific thing he told me was I must not let plug leads touch as DTA ECU will then fire both plugs on the touching leads. THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENS. He also diagnosed being unable to save my maps (had to write the map and upload to ECU ) MAP changes could easily be done on the laptop on the road. But saving the map to laptop from the ECU could not happen. This he told me was down to a CRAPPY LAPTOP again EXACTLY RIGHT. Had to download FROM ECU to my then desktop.

Saw an ignition map posted on another forum created by Dave Walker Maximum advance 33 degrees No wonder he cannot increase horsepower at the top end. MUST TRY HARDER DAVE. BTW when I was researching which ECU to buy I spoke with Dave Walker twice (20 years ago) NOT IMPRESSED by him at all. Why I went DTA. Alan Warbuton of DTA really knew his stuff. Alan was not impressed when I quoted Walker to him either. My initial maps were based on a DTA sample intended for a full race Mini I converted this to six cylinder obviously.

Initially. You use your Dizzy curve added into Ign map These are you MINIMUM ADVANCE no need to even think of running below these figures. But I assume you realise this without saying. Those reading might not.

Top three are studs and nuts 5/16 UNF.

Nope not a Big T expert but from memory not that tricky getting top nuts off. I have only ever pulled them to put in Gt6's or Spits. But as for having to remove the box first it is rare having any bugger tell you that. It is for this reason manuals tell to drop whole front end out the bottom.

Indeed EFI is very impressive. Get your 3D ignition properly set up. Different ballgame again. Do not be afraid to dial in ignition advance untill she pings then dial her back just till it clears. Forget about the max 32 degrees nonsence THIS IS NOT A DISTRIBUTOR. (Dizzys are set to be SAFE at all Rpm even towing a caravan up a hill. Your 3D knows when you are not towing a caravan) Ignition advance can be whacked up quite a bit specially with standard lowerish compression. ( Mine is HIGH, ignition max advance still whacked up ) And keep your maps smooth There should be no big peaks or spikes, even dips. Smooth the graphs out.

To lift the engine from the top YOU MUST remove the gearbox first.

Ever see the LED units in a Landy ? COOL AF. Hard to find something more antiquated than a Landy

Would not have the gift of a Tesla. (Well I could sell it) I do not have a problem upgrading lights. Spose you are using the sealed beam candles .

No problem with them. (I have a pair, E marked) Add an interesting look. They are destinctive. Shows an owner prepared to move with the times.

Mine came in at £750 with a brand name ECU. Granted that was back in 2002. Edit JEASSSUS That's 20 years ago !

True EASY not a word I would use for it, But it can be done completly sucessfully with creative unconventional mapping. eg fueling for 70Mph at 1% throttle. My ECU had to be tricked to map at 0% 1% 3% for example. As for the linkage Yes they are garbage. I found that ball jointed adyustable rods make a HUGE difference

Not that difficult

Lower oil control ring THOSE ARE OLD ! Likely as the box says for a Standard.

Dissagree, EFI is far more tunable (no compromises) carburetors in thier very nature have compromises. You can even do a workaround to be able to use the massively oversized PI throttle bodies (Creative unconventional low speed mapping) Never mind the WONDERFULL 3D ignition management.

BIN THE DYNAMO ! An alternator is FAR more reliable. Years back before aternators became common second hand. I was tormented by garbage dynamos and control boxes. Control boxes so much my local autospark shop called me Mr B90.

Saloon manifold cannot be used on a Gt6 at all. Unless you are prepared to whack two great FN holes in the bonnet. (Seen that done, AWFULL) Gt6 Vitesse drop manifold MUST BE USED. You will require a set of carb adaptors. Tho I have seen it done without those using space saver nuts and partially elongated holes.

The saloon TR box sits vertical in a Gt6 Vitesse. Angled to right in a big T

OOOOOOOOOPS ! Forgot I use a 28% overdrive as well. Gives 24 mph per 1000 rpm

Why I added Just out of interest.

Upsize your rear tyres to the rolling eqivilent of 185/70 non OD speedo will work. Thats my mix.

More or less all the same You really want one with the switches on top. Early lids use the switches at the lever base and top switch holes are neither drilled or tapped. BTW Daimler Dart SP250 uses the same box lid. In fact the Daimler box is really similar tho bell housing is different. Just out of interest.

You must use Gt6 Vitesse manifold. You can shorten the S dashpot on front carb for Gt6 bonnet clearance, the rear carb can be left taller.

Have pulled apart many an S engine ALL HAVE HAD 3 RING CAM.

No. Exactly the same three ring cam.