Greeks
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Everything posted by Greeks
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Hmmm... Well i got the Cp block.
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Hmmm... Well i got the Cp block.
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Matt - can you get the engine number for us and then we'll be able to help out more :) This page http://www.triumphclub.co.nz/?page_id=653 has engine number prefixes, and cylinder head numbers and when we x-ref that we can get you started with less guess work.
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I love my lumpy Wade 444C cam and so does my two year old revhead son, but realistically the power curve is fun but impractical (it likes 4-5k) and the missus is fed up with people staring at BOB at traffic lights as the car grunts and shakes. And frankly the stink of unburnt fuel (from the car not the missus) is attrocious. Seeing as she uses it as a daily driver and I don't get much chance, i'm potentially entertaining thoughts of swapping out the cam for something milder, but i'm (as usual) not sure where to start. So here's the questions: Question 1 Is it possible or even 'easy' to remove and replace a cam through the nose of a Mk2 saloon bodyshell? Question 2 Anyone got thoughts of a profile that would suit SUs and be milder yet still fun (i've read a TR5 profile doesn't work well with SUs and I don't have the coin for EFI as well) ... eg the Newman Phase 2 cam? Question 3 Can you regrind an already reground cam? Question 4 Are there other ways of achieving the same result which would definitely work and not cost loads more? Question 4 Where does one find a moon on a stick these days?
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I love my lumpy Wade 444C cam and so does my two year old revhead son, but realistically the power curve is fun but impractical (it likes 4-5k) and the missus is fed up with people staring at BOB at traffic lights as the car grunts and shakes. And frankly the stink of unburnt fuel (from the car not the missus) is attrocious. Seeing as she uses it as a daily driver and I don't get much chance, i'm potentially entertaining thoughts of swapping out the cam for something milder, but i'm (as usual) not sure where to start. So here's the questions: Question 1 Is it possible or even 'easy' to remove and replace a cam through the nose of a Mk2 saloon bodyshell? Question 2 Anyone got thoughts of a profile that would suit SUs and be milder yet still fun (i've read a TR5 profile doesn't work well with SUs and I don't have the coin for EFI as well) ... eg the Newman Phase 2 cam? Question 3 Can you regrind an already reground cam? Question 4 Are there other ways of achieving the same result which would definitely work and not cost loads more? Question 4 Where does one find a moon on a stick these days?
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Jonny_Jimbo wrote:Richard; they are the two names I was gonna use, probably Mick Papworth. I was more wondering if anyone has had any dealings themselves, and roughly how much they will cost I guess. I have no idea how much a diff rebuild might cost. In terms of the shafts I don't know what condition the splines are in, but I think the bearings are on the way out, so I may have to budget for getting them rebuilt too completely, rather than just putting in new UJs. DJB, I appreciate that, but I think a 4.1:1 diff may be a bit short for a 2.5 engined car with an overdrive too. I may head up there. I have a TR6 differential too, so if I can change the back plates on it I may put that in and see if that makes it better. Why don't you ring them and ask :o Have you removed and checked the bearings by hand? Really easy to tell if they're fubar. And probably easier and cheaper to get hold of good second hand driveshafts than replace the bearings. Backplate is interchangeable on Mk1 and 2 diff's so you'd be ok with the TR6 I think.
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Thanks guys ... can't seem to find anyone who does them, but Greg Tunstall's given me details of someone who can make them up in Brissy.
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Quick response from Newton ... saying they have nothing for the big sixes :( :'(
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Name rings a bell... worth a try.
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I'm aware that not all Triumph interior carpets are good quality. Anyone know where I can find good front carpets? :-/
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All present correct... And not even collapsed!
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Got jtype od ... No idea about its mounting though.
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My car is an 'S' and I have two spacers under the PAS ... although the engine is Mk1 Pi. And the guy who fitted it knows them like the back of his hand. In situ the mount looks under tension on the engine side. I've been considering whether to try adapting another bracket from a spare engine as i'm not convinced this mount will last too long either. :-/ ... and come to think of it I think I have noticed a couple of 'one skin thick' holes so the x-member must be correct.
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Do you spend much time in reverse?
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Changed my latest mangled mount for a Mackays one yesterday... here's a line up of all the failed ones next to the brand spanker. It's always the passenger side. On fitting I find the engine wants to sit a few inches closer to the wing than where it actually mounts so it's a squeeze to fit. I run the engine with loose mounts to make it sit nicely and notice that on revving the engine wants to move towards the passenger wing too, and that seems to be what's twisting the mounts. Is this typical?
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lagerzok wrote:http://www.mackayrubber.com.au/pdf/vibration-isolators/md.pdf These would basically bolt straight in apart from needing a M12 stud Extra HD and diesel proof - probably well expensive Yeah, but how many people have a tech spec sheet for their engine mounts. You'd be king of the car park :K) ... well spotted though. If this next one won't cope with the vibes might have to try it. Chris's price is competitive for the Aussie-made mounts, no real difference in price. I'll post up my collection of dead mounts when I get to changing over.
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Well i've ordered an Aussie made standard engine mount from Greg Tunstall here in Brisbane. He swears he's been using them for 20 years without a problem - including in his monster 2.7 pi. Made by these guys, so if you're looking for something more betterer Andy, may be worth hunting through the catalogues? http://www.mackayrubber.com.au/products/
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Anyone done anything about this yet. Mine don't just separate, they're getting torn in half :( ... and I doubt the fiesta stuff's available. But hang on a minute. Is this what Keith is talking about? ... or at least the standard item. http://www.classicmotoring.net.au/cmos/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=43_46&products_id=90&zenid=9e3b65dcbd64986856c73d827edf3a33 Cheeeeeeap option if so.
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4526 wrote: i've heard from the gay at my garage Is he/she the only gay at your garage ;D Seems a bit harsh to single them out.
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A strange one I heard from someone the other day. They had a dead battery on a one year old modern car. Turned out to be because they parked in their garage every night but didn't lock the doors. Apparently current may still be drawn (for some reason) if the doors are unlocked. Unlikely, but it could be worth testing the battery again with the doors locked?
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Richard_B wrote: Yes, on the reversing light switch. The one on the side of the gearbox. Nice one Richard - I would never have found that if you hadn't posted! There was no evidence of a breakage. It seems the tunnel cover is sagging (better than the gearbox mount doing so I suppose) and banging the connections. Unfortunately the other pin on the reverse light switch is barely hanging on, so i have the joy of trying to replace the whole switch some time soon-ish :(
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Thanks Mikey ... most of that seems to be d-type though (which ironically i've more experience of ;D ) ... lovely the way you can take the tunnel off and see it all too.
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Thanks Richard - so am I looking/feeling for a piggy pack connector then?
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Hi again, I currently have inoperable overdrive, but I have located a loose wire with a female spade connection. But I can't seem to see/feel where it should be going. Solenoid and reverse switch both seem to have two wires firmly in place, and the short earth from the solenoid is intact. I suspect my loom will be the correct coloured wiring, and this is a yellow/purple wire. No suitable wiring diagram in either of my manuals and no sign of anything useful on the web. Anyone able to help, please? :-/
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Alex wrote:Graham I'm not sure if you saw my issues prior to the rbrr but high oil pressure caused mine to dump its oil from the oil filter seal....maybe yours is doing something similar? Have you checked the PRV to make sure its not been uprated? There's two spring lengths.....the longer the higher the oil pressure. Alex Mate, that's something I thought of - but the good lady SWMBO reckoned there weren't any noises. Anyway, it turned out to be the oil pressure switch had given up the ghost - leaking from all three pins! >:( Slightly ironic. Went out to the main road to see how far it had been leaking and very very luckily for BOB (and all the bikes that race along the twisties) it only started leaking at the end of our drive. Phew. Looks like a tapered thread, so i'll not jam a bolt in there for the meanwhile and wait til i can get a replacement.