Greeks
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Everything posted by Greeks
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Yeah, recognise it will be a bit stinky due to the overlap. I've had it running as low as 600, but it's most comfortable around 1000 rpm ... where it is fairlystable.
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BOB's done about 50,000 miles on a set of well reconditioned carbs now, and apart from changing the needles to match the changed cam I've only ever tinkered with the jet and balanced them although they've not really needed much doing. With the crazy cam there's often a smell of unburnt fuel floating around at idle, but I do wonder if it's not worse due to worn carbs. Question is ... how would I know if the needles and jets are worn to the point of needing attention, and indeed if any other carb parts should be replaced?
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If only it was that quick and easy to put together in real life!!! ... didn't know the TR6 had a sump plug in that position.
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My clutch is rubbish too ... interesting that. Mind it's nowhere near as heavy as the clutch on the TD5 Defender we've got. And as my wife mainly drives that in the warmer months (for the A/C) she doesn't complain.
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My clutch is rubbish too ... interesting that. Mind it's nowhere near as heavy as the clutch on the TD5 Defender we've got. And as my wife mainly drives that in the warmer months (for the A/C) she doesn't complain.
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1045 wrote:Can I easily just swap the vac mechanism? Yep. They are a simple swap... but make sure you get the correct model. Number stamped on dissy or vacuum. But... having no advance at all will really give you retarded timing. These engines seem to run relatively well even in the least likely circumstances.
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Mr Hornet, in case you misunderstood Colin's referring to whether you have converted the standard oil filter housing to a spin-off conversion like this: http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CW2525 If so, then, and only then, can you use the VW Golf filters.
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lagerzok wrote: I suspect that Newman cams raw castings have a very strong whiff of spices from the east - and further east than Turkey Armenia? Azerbajdžan?
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Not much use for Marint, but I contacted a guy in Brisbane on recommendation and he wanted $1000 to make and fit from the highest spec. Sounded like he'd do an amazing job, insulated with removable side panels, etc, etc, but will have to wait at that price.
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Has the car been sitting anywhere someone could have tampered with it? Non-lockable fuel caps and people with grudges can lead to smokey situations :-/
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AJP's a bit old for that malarky!
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Maybe it wus frum NZud A bro? ... but seriously, could it be auto that someone's replaced the internals when they switched to manual?
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Thanks Nick, that figures. The guy who built the engine tuned the mechanical dissy on a steep hill. Ended up with 13 advance at idle. He made some internal mods apparently but i'm not sure what. However, i've never noticed pre-ignition, but I reckon it should pick up sooner as the revs increase, so I assumed it may not have enough advance - maybe needed lighter springs. Anyway at least I could find out for sure if I could put a mappable dissy in and see what's happening. I need to do some research into how to tune them though. I assume the manifold pressure comes off the standard vaccum advance tube, but want to know how I will know what to change (if that makes sense) before I buy one.
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Thanks Nick, that figures. The guy who built the engine tuned the mechanical dissy on a steep hill. Ended up with 13 advance at idle. He made some internal mods apparently but i'm not sure what. However, i've never noticed pre-ignition, but I reckon it should pick up sooner as the revs increase, so I assumed it may not have enough advance - maybe needed lighter springs. Anyway at least I could find out for sure if I could put a mappable dissy in and see what's happening. I need to do some research into how to tune them though. I assume the manifold pressure comes off the standard vaccum advance tube, but want to know how I will know what to change (if that makes sense) before I buy one.
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Remember Andy Mac had one let go on his TR6 :-/ We spent the weekend thraping it round the countryside, getting air of bridges and he kept saying "hmmm, front PS wheel seems strange" but couldn't figure it out. Next week he came out of a roundabout and the wheel disappeared into the arch (luckily for him) and he came to a halt pretty sharpish!
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Thanks Nick. I'm umming and ahhing about it all at the moment, trying to decide between cam-swap, PI, EFI (possibly TBI). Any which way it would be best to modify the ignition (dissy was tweaked for the current cam and carb set up). Dropping a 1-2-3 in there for a starter is tempting as it would be quickest. Not as kosher as megasquirt maybe. ... No real issue pulling from low revs at the moment though, can drive in fourth at 1200 rpm no problem (no fun either).
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Thanks Nick. I'm umming and ahhing about it all at the moment, trying to decide between cam-swap, PI, EFI (possibly TBI). Any which way it would be best to modify the ignition (dissy was tweaked for the current cam and carb set up). Dropping a 1-2-3 in there for a starter is tempting as it would be quickest. Not as kosher as megasquirt maybe. ... No real issue pulling from low revs at the moment though, can drive in fourth at 1200 rpm no problem (no fun either).
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Sounds good Nick ... just need your EFI system to go with it!
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Sounds good Nick ... just need your EFI system to go with it!
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I've had similar success with local autoparts places. A few years back I replaced the original clutch master cylinder with a 5/8 trailer brake m/c. Slight fettling of bulkhead required but no big deal. When the dreaded brake fluid hit the footwell last weekend I just popped to my local car shop and picked up a whole new m/c for $40. Much easier than trying to track down seals for the original and then buggering about with it. Only messing around required is to swap the plunger from the supplied short one to the adjustable and longer original.
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Repco! Ha ha. When I had my prop made in Brissy in 2006 the guy quoted a pretty reasonable price to make one rated to +200 bhp.
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339 wrote:I had a tr5 cam with hs6 su's. 135bhp and 150ftlbs torque. standard engine other than a decked block. ran very well i thought until i fitted EFI. ran much better then ;) ;) I love the idea of getting EFI sorted ... i'm years' away at current pace though :-/
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339 wrote:I had a tr5 cam with hs6 su's. 135bhp and 150ftlbs torque. standard engine other than a decked block. ran very well i thought until i fitted EFI. ran much better then ;) ;) I love the idea of getting EFI sorted ... i'm years' away at current pace though :-/
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lagerzok wrote: Well I have about six headgaskets for them - how does free + postage sound? I'll see if I can rustle up a PI cam - I have plenty of decent new followers - swap a cam change kit for the 444C if it isn't shagged out Well it's a CR engine actually. The deal doesn't sound too bad at all. So kit would be cam, followers and h/gasket? Can't see the 444C cam should be too bad as it's only done ~40k. Still haven't needed to top up the oil between services. Will make some enquiries about getting a local classic car place to swap out the cam as I'm time poor these days. Might take a little while to get to it.
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lagerzok wrote: Well I have about six headgaskets for them - how does free + postage sound? I'll see if I can rustle up a PI cam - I have plenty of decent new followers - swap a cam change kit for the 444C if it isn't shagged out Well it's a CR engine actually. The deal doesn't sound too bad at all. So kit would be cam, followers and h/gasket? Can't see the 444C cam should be too bad as it's only done ~40k. Still haven't needed to top up the oil between services. Will make some enquiries about getting a local classic car place to swap out the cam as I'm time poor these days. Might take a little while to get to it.