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Greeks

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Everything posted by Greeks

  1. Greeks
    Hi all I've used a Gunson's Eezibleed with great results on clutches in the past, but I want to use it on my brakes ... except the huuuge brake master cylinder lid on the Mk2 is much larger than the optional caps provided in the kit. Has anyone used one of the multi-purpose caps to get the job done? http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=3713 Or is there another way? I thought butchering a spare cap may work, but there's a vent hole. Not interested in people's terrible experiences with Eezibleed by the way - it's by far the quickest, cleanest system I've used  :)
  2. Greeks
    lagerzok wrote:Make sure the usual headlights are relayed - lots of brightness to be gained there. You can splice into the main loom where a Mk1 fuse box was located. Stops the dip switch melting. With new Hella  main beams (hart Racing) and relays you don't really need spots. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Stag-2000-2500-NEW-Hella-5-3-4-headlamp-upgrade-kit-/351150099493?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51c22d4c25 (Obviously they can be found individually or in scrapyards) This also means you spend less time at Edinburgh airport rewiring or replacing switches.
  3. Greeks
    Better than marsupial it seems is just to get another one from Chris Witor. When that one starts wearing out I can sew a leather cover on the original. ... my car is turning into Trigger's broom. Ok, ok, I admit it I couldn't resist it...
  4. Greeks
    I just use a cheap trailer m/c. No farting around with seals just 10 quid replaces the whole unit.
  5. Greeks
    nang wrote:I've had one of these made for the Spit and one for the S. Although not leather , a good product. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/PositionTrack.aspx?pos=11&sn=13-55&sci=10895683&r=L21vdG9ycy9jYXItcGFydHMtYWNjZXNzb3JpZXMvdmludGFnZS1wYXJ0cy9hY2Nlc3Nvcmllcy9hdWN0aW9uLTc2MjExODg4OS5odG0= Tony. Hmmm ... I'm thinking leather would be nicer and about the same price.
  6. Greeks
    Ha ha ... Mr Steering gets everywhere don't he?  ;) You're right, it was $50 not 50 quids. ... should someone warn him about the advert for the 'Quality Black Italian' ... Jemery Claxon might get in trouble buying a container load.  :X
  7. Greeks
    I can get it redone nicely for equivalent of about 110 of those funny English pounds... cheaper than any viable alternative wheel unless I can find a vgc original. Looks like it's 50 quid to buy the leather alone if I wanted to do it myself.
  8. Greeks
    :-/ I like the concept but I can't see where I'd find the time to be honest.
  9. Greeks
    Great. The sun and a three-year-old aspiring Stirling Moss have ravaged my current wheel and no local auto trimmers will do wheels ... not worth the 'risk' apparently! If I can find a decent dolly, Stag or 2500S to replace it will do fine.
  10. Greeks
    I'm guessing the Stag and 2500S steering wheels are exactly the same except for the rubber insert in the middle ... but am I wrong?
  11. Greeks
    I had a line made up at a hydraulics place and they definitely included a crush washer ... that said if it's working now you don't want to stuff it up again! Could it be that you'd tightened it with the washer in place once, then realigned things and retightened?
  12. Greeks
    Rather than continue the blatant hi-jacking of nang's thread about rescuing an S ... I thought it would be a good idea to start a separate thread on uprated hubs and axles. Good parts do: Hubs https://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=347 Hubs and axles (CV joints) https://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?ukey=product&productID=823 SC parts also do a CV set up (not immediately clear to me if the hub is any different but presumably it is) http://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/antriebswelle-199072.html Dennis Vessey does hubs, but not clear if he does axles for Stag/saloon and pricing is not included on site: http://www.vessey-classic-car-services.co.uk/triumph-tr-rear-hubs.htm Who else is out there?
  13. Greeks
    Yep - it's quite funny. If you buy from Vanguard Triumph on Vic they tell you how they're British made - the best (and they proceed to fall apart after 10 miles). Go to CW's site and he sells Aussie made ones! Pretty sure they're the same ones.
  14. Greeks
    It is annoying when they give up after a short time. Chris sells some Aussie-made Mackay Rubber components - like the engine mounts and they're way better than the cheap crap ... may be a case of you get what you pay for here.
  15. Greeks
    Ermmmm ... that 10CR thing... it'll never work out.
  16. Greeks
    I strongly recommend this: http://www.equus.com/Product/5568/INNOVA%C2%AE-Pro-Digital-Timing-Light-(DIS) I have a Drapers Tools version exactly the same but in blue - looks like they don't make it anymore and these guys do instead. ... somewhat more expensive than a new bulb, though  :P
  17. Greeks
    Thanks Alec ... isn't that the reverse of the book procedure? I though they said you should jack up the wheels and apply the handbrake ... maybe i reversed it in my mind. I'll definitely try it first though!!! piman wrote:Hello Greeks, the method I've used with success is to disconnect the handbrake cable at one wheel, then stand hard on the brake pedal a couple of times. You should hear the adjuster ratchet up as you do it. Reconnect the cable and you should find that you have a working handbrake. Alec PS, ensure the handbrake actuators on each drum are free and not seized, you'll need to remove the drum to check,  i.e. the pivot between the arm and the cross link that goes between the two shoes.
  18. Greeks
    Thanks. I think that may be what i've tried before and never managed to get right. I guess i'll try again  :o
  19. Greeks
    So i've noticed a few references to the famous non-self-adjusting rear brakes on Mk2 saloons this last week. My self-adjusters don't adjust either and, IIRC, when i've done it manually, flicking the little ratchet mechanism through the inadequate cut-out it goes too far and I struggle to get the brake drum back on and things rapidly deteriorate into the seven stages of grief in the garage: - Shock or Disbelief (come on, they must go on) - Denial (surely they do, i'm just not doing it right...cue soft blow hammer) - Anger (F*)#$%^, C&)%^&$s, B$%#$% brakes!!!!) - Bargaining (Go on, please work, if you do i'll treat the whole car to a wash.) - Guilt (Oh dear, this is all my fault) - Depression (Do I really have to take the shoes off to get them back in again and start again) - Acceptance and Hope (ok, so I do, but it won't take that long, let's start all over again)  :B Anyway, my handbrakes becoming useless again so it's time I adjusted the non-adjusting self-adjusters again I guess. So, has anyone a fail-safe method to adjusting the buggers that will save me at least a couple of stages of grief ... please  :) (and don't say change for the adjustable ones as I'm not about to do that).
  20. Greeks
    Oh, that makes sense, even to me. Why you didn't post that link earlier I'll never know 😉
  21. Greeks
    I'm still not quite sure what they're needed for   ... or rather, I wasn't aware of the problem. Oh God ... will anyone know my car hasn't got them?
  22. Greeks
    8465 wrote:I had a distributor out of an 'S' I  had on my MK1 PI, and from what I could see it had vacuum retard instead of normal vac advance. I think it was some type of half arsed emission control thing. I now have a powerspark eletronic distributor fitted, with vac advance, and now it goes better than it ever has. I don't know about the timing, I just advance it till it pings under load then back it off a little. Maybe you should give it a bit more advance and see how it goes. Cheers Josh I think the Aussie S dissy was a special to go with the crappy emissions regulation stuff they had to do for the S model.
  23. Greeks
    One of the less common engine conversions i've seen... http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=SSE-AD-2693551&Cr=0
  24. Greeks
    Nick_Jones wrote:Good price and superficially attractive.   Plus points: - Cheap for what it is. - Easy to fit. - Simple to set-up (more on this below) However: - The BIG limitation is that this is (as far as I can see from their website) a 2D system only with no provision for sensing engine load and adding advance at part throttle.  That is, it replaces mechanical advance only, not the vacuum part.  It may be that they intend you to leave the original mechanical vacuum part operable, but IMO it is an unacceptable limitation for a road car where having a mappable "third dimension" makes a big difference to part throttle driveability and fuel economy. This is key for me. Since fitting a 1-2-3 my fuel economy has significantly improved on motorway runs where I'm at part throttle for hours. Needle hits half mark at 230-250 km. On more local driving it gets there after 200km which is the same as with the Lucas dissy.
  25. Greeks
    What's gonna happen when all those parts melt 😎
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