Greeks
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Everything posted by Greeks
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Gearbox Choices - 5 Speed Type 9 or other 'box?
Greeks replied to CharliesStag's topic in Drivetrain
Greg Tunstall fits/ed Supra boxes. Pretty sure he had one in his own Spitfire. -
When I cleaned out the fuel pump gauze it wasn't too bad, really. The rear carb feed was a bit worse for wear so I replaced that. No ethanol fuel has been used since 2008 - they have to tell us here so it's easy to avoid. Anyway, i've had another trip where it ripped up the road like a scalded cat, so fingers crossed it was a blockage that's cleared itself for now :-/
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Already done that Rob.
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Thanks guys a blockage seems plausible. Although weird it seems to occur at the same spot. However yesterday it happened on cue on the short drive to the station. But didn't on the way home and I sat at 4k. Nothing this morning either. If it comes back again I'll look closer.
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MB engine# would be a Mk1 2 litre engine. Early high compression unit... suggest your engine doesn't come from the same original car as the gearbox then.
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Fiddled around a bit today. Can get some serious wheel spin with the latest curves... but in second and third WOT eventually lose power for a while. Tried removing fuel cap. Made no difference. Lifted the bonnet when I got home and the fuel pump was near empty but starting to fill under gravity, and the glass fuel filter up the line was empty. Next stop carb floats.
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Yeah good thinking, will try that tomorrow. Tanks under half full now so less likely to lose any fuel. I'm also gonna tweak my curve again to flatten it out above 3500 and see. Though I had a blast in 1st gear and was ok at 5500, so I don't think it's ignition. Will have a look at the floats after that if it's still not playing ball.
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Did it again today on a steep hill at lower rpm...also noticed the pump keeps resistance regardless of how many times it's pumped as long as I pause a second between each stroke. The pre-carb filter isnt filling completely. Couldn't pull over to check vacuum where I was though I thought there was a separate breather on the tank.
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Hi I've recently adjusted the curve on my 123 tune distributor and seen a reasonably good improvement in both performance and economy. Nice. However, on two occasions now, after pushing about 5500 rpm in 3rd gear, the old thing gets a bit wheezy the revs die and it takes about 30 seconds before I get full power back. Scratching my head a bit. It's almost like hitting a rev limiter, but it feels like a fuel starvation issue. I'm still running an AC mech pump, no signs of any leaks. Is it possible i'm needing more fuel than the pump can manage? Or am i missing something simple? One other thing. When I manually operate the pump there always seems to be resistance, but then afterwards there's a noise. Could that be a valve failure?
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I suppose the way i see it, is that there are incidents where old hubs have failed. My local and reliable (and English if it makes any difference) mechanic informs me he's not prepared to rebuild the spares I took to him as he doesn't trust old parts and wouldn't want to be liable. Fair enough. Whilst 'upgrading' to a new set seems relatively expensive, they've been designed to deal with more abuse than the originals, they're new materials and I'll have a receipt. And hopefully I won't be looking for a new set all that soon.
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yeah, i'm keen, just waiting to see how a new job goes and how much extra use BOB gets... it could be a definite commuter requirement 😉
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Maybe... but then freight around Oz could be a pain...
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Hubs $136 Full axles $315.
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http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1406245492/ I'm closely considering the Goodparts hubs, then maybe further down the track upgrading to the CV axles.
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8860 wrote:thanks gents Undrivable - every little bump finds its way to your bum, and it will loosen your fillings. road noise so bad you can't talk to the passenger. Ride height is fine. I suspect that the "bean cans" may need attention as you suggest, these are original 1978 rubber for sure. cheers all There are two ways to tell if they're past it. 1. Scandinavian flick on gravel. If you find yourself facing the wrong way they're gone... basically the whole rear end keeps moving when you don't want it to. Like a slingshot effect. 2. Safer method is to jack it up and inspect ... the bolt and bush separate.
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Hi Rod I'm afraid colour isn't going to tell you much. Springs could've changed ride height and/or tension. Have you any side on photos you can post so we can see how much clearance there is on the rear? Previous owner may have put stiffer springs in to help with towing or erroneously assuming the old springs were past it when what can happen is the subframe where the diff mounts can oval out giving the impression of sagging. I'd be surprised if the bushes would have made a huge difference. Generally speaking changing the bushes would have been a good thing - should last forever, too. I had a play about with a load of springs a few years back http://www.greeksinoz.blogspot.com.au/2006/08/springtime-for-bob.html In the end I bought Chris Witor rear springs when I went to the UK, and a mate (Burnerboy on here) brought fronts with him when he visited a couple of years later. Cheaper option in Oz would be to get some made to spec. - the front 'S' springs are called sofa springs by many :) Oh, another thing to check for is the big 'bean can' mounts on the trailing arm / strap things under the rear seats - these deteriorate and can make a big difference to the ride and steering!
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Yep that's the one I was referring to earlier in the thread.
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Refitting is a reverse of the above procedure ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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I have this one: http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=090.043 (Edelbrock brand name) It works fine, (except a lumpy cam means the idle is not that consistent so the floating ball moves a bit). However, it only fits to one carb at a time. I would try to find one that does both together - like this: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-tools-twin-carburetor-vacuum-gauge-sync-kit-84-68592.html Or get fancy with this: http://www.twinmax.co.uk/ Or make your own - there's lots of DIY tutorials.
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lagerzok wrote:I reckon it an early mk2 2000 flat top piston engine - that head is too skinny to be a domed piston Flat top is what the head # suggests.
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9233 wrote:Neither, It's good NZ Macrocarpa Ha ha ... a yankee import! ;D So, from the NZ Triumph register we have: http://www.triumphclub.co.nz/?page_id=653 Which corresponds to the head for Mk2 2000 to ME50000, Mk2 Vitesse/GT6
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9233 wrote:Here is some photos That's where the number for the head is... try the opposite corner and look for the number on the block :) ... and that bit of timber the engine's resting on is it turpentine or tallowood?
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Yes, Radders, had to tap it to fit. And also a smear of silicon on the cap stopped it from vibrating. Weird that people get hot knobs, though. Mine stays as cool as a cucumber even on hot Austalian days... and don't just take my word for it, my wife's never complained. :o
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... something to do with bonnets :o
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I gave up with the original-style switch - too prone to breaking. Got one of these instead: http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/overdrive-gear-lever-knob IIRC young Bancroft has one too