Toledo Man

Don't forget to check that the habdbrake linkage is all freed up (it seizes up quite often!) and that the handbrake return springs are not missing. This is something I need to do on Becky II soon (when the rain lets up for long enough!).

It sounds like you'll have to get a custom made exhaust for your car whichever manifold you use. You might get lucky with certain combinations of exhaust sections. You might be able to use the MG manifold. Give it a try once you've fitted the engine.

The MG one is different to the Triumph one (the part numbers are different). The good news is that I have one for sale very cheap but it needs new studs.

Justyn, the holes should be there. I fitted Sprint seats in my Dolomite 1300 and I sold a set of 1500fwd seats to a Toledo owner which were the wider type.

Glad you got it sorted. You were lucky that Eamonn had a spare pair. They're hard to come by. You should be able to fit the universal wiper blades that have the different fittings. Failing that, try replacing just the rubber blades. It can be fiddly but it is a bit cheaper.

Your shoes look like they've got plenty of thickness left on the linings. You shouldn't need to replace them unless the linings are contaminated. Most decent motor factors should be able to get a set. There are 2 sizes of brake shoes but it is only the very late MK2s that are different. You're best using DOT4 brake fluid. If you're going to remove the shoes make sure the handrake linkage is freed up. I find myself having to do Becky II's every 6 months. It seems to seize up quite regularly despite lots of Plusgas and grease giving a poor handbrake. Make sure the handbrake return springs are there (there should be 2 on each side of the car).

Try weakening the mixture a bit more.

Thanks for those wise words. See you tomorrow at the P&P meeting.

From memory, the ignition timing is 5deg BTDC for the manual and 11 deg BTDC for the Triomatic. Also from memory the markings on the timing pulley from right to left (looking at it from above and facing the timing belt cover) are TDC, 5 deg BTDC & 12 deg BTDC.

There's just one more thing (in the words of Columbo!). Have you checked the ignition timing? The Triomatic has a different setting to the manual. The crankshaft pulley has 3 markings. I can't remember off the top of my head because I'm posting this from work. I'll check my manuals and post my findings. On the subject of fuel, there's a filter on the nearside of the tank. If you remove the NSR wheel you can see it. Becuase the original filters are virtually non-existent you will have to replace it with a universal inline one (the bigger the better). Also, try blowing compressed air through the fuel line. It is amazing how much crap will come out. This is something I need to do with Blue. Should you need to remove the fuel tank it isn't too difficult. There are 4 bolts holding the tank on to the body. The front 2 don't need to be removed becuase the flanges  at the front have slots instead of holes so you can just slide it out after you've removed the rear 2 bolts. It'll make sense when you do the job.

On the dizzy cap the position for No. 1 HT lead (for the cylinder nearest the cambelt) should be marked as you can see in the photo below: You then work anti-clockwise for the firing order (1-3-4-2). Hope this helps.

Try and find a good local motor factor. You should be able to get service parts without too much difficulty. I don't know which part of the country you're in so I can't recommend anyone. eBay is also your friend.

No 4 is well within 10% of the others so your engine is fine. Replace all your ignition parts but beware of poor quality parts. I've had a brand new rotor arm fail on me so it does happen.

Have you replaced all the ignition parts?

It is the manifold-to-downpipe stud that I'm after. I was hoping somebody would know the actual thread size. 14mm is the distance across the flats for the nut so the thread size has to be less. Sorry for any confusion :B

Does anybody know the thread size on these? Becky II has lost one of her's. I'd rather buy a new one than rob one of Becky's. I know that the nuts are 14mm AF. Where's the Guru when you need him?

I don't suppose you know the RR part number by any chance do you? I'm still going to explore this option.

The part arrived today so I fitted it and it is an EXACT match. I swapped the rear one which had my temporary fix done on it. Just need to source some more and replace the front one.

I forgot about going to the Land Rover dealer (I went right past it today!). The supplier has replied to my e-mail. Apparently it is the same part as one of the Rover 800 bushes which ISTR was mentioned somehwere along the line. The part number is DCP7123 which is the same part as on the early Rover 827. Rimmer Bros sell this part for the same price as what I've been quoted. I've replied asking if they can offer it to me cheaper and what the minimum quantity would be. I've just seen one on eBay so I've gone and bought it. I said I'd put my money where my mouth is. Worth a punt at £6.24 which includes the postage for a genuine MG Rover part.

I've found a possible supplier and I've sent off an e-mail. I'm going to explore the Range Rover bush option tomorrow at my local Landy dealer (Simmonites).

I'm going to put my money where my mouth is and try one out. I won't get a poly one is it will just tansmit the noise and vibration. There are a couple of Landy specialists in West Yorkshire so I can rob one from Becky and take it along to compare. The original part number is BNP2831. A Google search came up with a possible source. I'll follow this up later on. Watch this space...

Try an "Italian tune-up" to clear out the crap.

The Guru said the Rover 213 uses the same bush. Andy Ellis reckons a Rover 800 bush would be the same. I'll have to take one along to a local stockist to compare.

I've just had a look on the TSSC forum and it is a Range Rover radius arm bush. I've also had a look on Rimmer's website and the closet match I could find is the front radius arm to axle bush which is part No. NTC6860. Can anybody confirm this?

As some of you may know, engine torque rods stop the engine rocking back and forth when it is running. They have rubber bushes at each end. It is always the big ones nearest the engine that have excess play presumably due to the viration of the engine. This results in the car shuddering when setting off. While I had Becky II on the wheelramps torquing up the anti-roll bar and lower suspension arm bolts I checked the engine torque rods and found excess play. Ideally, they should be replaced but as a temporary fix I removed the bushes, wrapped electrical tape around the edge to take out the play, refitted them, torqued them up and hey presto, a result! The shuddering is a lot less than before! An easy fix which didn't cost me a penny. Is there an alternative part which would fit? I read somewhere that one of the Range Rover bushes could be used in place of the original. Can anyone confirm this?