Toledo Man
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Everything posted by Toledo Man
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HERE is the video I'd seen. I forgot that the infamous Tim Shaw presented it. My caravan had a puncture on Sunday and it was then that I decided to replace the tyres. I ended up going to my local Kwik Fit and had 2 brand new tyres fitted. The original spare was fine so that remains as a spare. The punctured tyre was seriously knackered and the other one was dated 1992 which was almost as old as the caravan! I can't go above 60mph by law when towing so I fitted the cheapest brand new tyres at £45.99 each which will be more than up to the job. Being an older caravan it has 13" rims and the tyres are the same size as the ones on the Dolomite (155/80 R13).
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I saw a video on YouTube (I think it was from an episode of Fifth Gear) and the greater stopping distances with part worn tyres have put me off them. You're better off with cheap brand new tyres.
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It isn't the exact same one that BOM use. That one goes for about a ton.
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Make the noise...
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To get an accurate resistance reading you will need to disconnect everything from the coil.
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Wanted buying advice for a Dolomite 1850 auto
Toledo Man replied to poppyman's topic in Triumph Chat
I second what Rob has said. DON'T use any additives in the coolant. I've not had a single problem with the cooling system on my 1850 auto. Use glycol based antifreeze at the correct strength (30-40%), change it every 2-3 years and it should be fine. You will find lots of help and advice on the TDC forum so get yourself over there as well. I've just had a look at the eBay listing and it looks like it is a good one so you've done the right thing by buying a good one that's ready to go. Mine is still a rolling restoration. The 1850 engine is well suited to the BW65 auto and is a pleasure to drive. Enjoy! -
Sam, you've beaten me to it. Getting back on topic, I don't remember having problems with the small window sticker way back when I first joined CT.
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Mike, I'd be loath to use a hammer. Aren't the steering wheels made of bakelite? It isn't the sort of thing I'd want to be hitting with a hammer even with gentle taps. I reckon a rubber mallet would be better than a hammer to get the steering wheel off even if you follow Clive's method to the letter.
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The Wheeler Dealers Spitfire also had a KKK number plate.
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Iain the stop/tail bulbs are 380s. The eBay seller I mentioned before sells LED headlight bulbs and THESE are the ones they sell.
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If all the studs are out then you can use Dirk's suggestion. Superglue works on the same principle so some sideways force should do the trick. When I had to remove the head on an Acclaim, I left the exhaust manifold on and used a trolley jack on the manifold and the head came off.
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Here's the link for the website where I got my brake/tail LED bulbs from.
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I bought a set of LED brake/tail lights. They didn't work in my Mk4 Astra so I put them in my Dolomite and they worked perfectly. I bought them from an online supplier. I'll post the link when I get home from work. There is one eBay supplier ("led_bulbs_for_classic_cars") that I DO trust who sells the warm white bulbs. I got the sidelight bulbs for my Dolomite from them and I recently bought some warm white bulbs for the caravan.
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One of my Dolomite friends has fitted LEDs to his outer headlights on his Sprint which will also fit the Stag, Vitesse & 2000 range. I second what Roger has said about not all LED lamps being created equal. Best to avoid the cheap ones on eBay. Always best to pay a bit more for decent quailty one. Car LED bulbs are now available in warm white which gives a similar light to filament bulbs with all the advantages of LED. I think they might even work with coloured filters. I know the bright white bulbs don't.
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I know that this is a bit late but Super Flex are the bushes of choice for me with Polybush a close second. I've used Powerflex bushes on relatively more modern machinery.
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Jon, if you're seriously looking at remanufacturing Acclaim exhausts, do the later type which have a bit of flex in them. Early types had the downpipe fracture because the front section was just a rigid pipe. There was a downpipe clamp fitted during production to prevent this but most Acclaims have lost their's during subsequent exahust replacements (mostly by the "fast fit" types of establishments). The entire exhausts are interchangable so a later type will fit any Acclaim.
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Jon, the Dolly 1300 should be capable of completing the RBRR and the 1300 engine doesn't have any inherent problems. We did the 2007 HCR in my Dolly 1300 so you should have some idea of what it will be like to drive. Whichever car you decide to use, try to give yourself at least a week to shake it down. The best way to do this is to put it into daily use. There's been many a retirement caused by finishing the car the night before the start of the run. Didn't Dave Pearson have that very problem with the Stretch Herald?
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This is yet another good reason for buying decent quality bushes.
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Some cars have separate flasher units for the indicators and hazards. That is certainly true of my Dolomite. I have fitted a modern indicator one on mine and it has 3 wires one of which is for the earth.
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The TDC sells some of the SuperFlex bushes but you have to be a member. Might be worth a try and is probably a bit cheaper. Chris Witor does a discount for TDC members on SuperFlex bushes.
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...and it can be replaced at the same time as the bulkhead bush.
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I'd swap out that bulkhead bush pronto. I've got a SuperFlex one on my 1850 and it was well worth the money. The one from RB is obviously not fit for purpose. I think the bulkhead bush is the cause of your problem. The TREs seem to be fine as long as you don't have any excessive resistance. I've had the front end of my 1850 rebushed in SuperFlex and it handles better than it did before. I had the subframe, steering rack and top wishbones done last year. The bottom arms, tie rods and bulkhead bushes had already been done circa 2009.
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It would be best to check everything again starting with the tyre pressures then the track rod ends, ball joints (top and bottom), the steering coupling, the bulkhead bush (fit a SuperFlex one if you can) and then the rack istelf. Don't forget to check the front wheel alignment. I'm surprised nobody's mentioned this. Castor can't be adjusted but camber can be adjusted by adding or removing the shims that sit between the subframe and suspension bracket. The only other thing you can check is the condition of the bushes. SuperFlex are the best bushes to buy and are worth the money.
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I was supposed to put "warm white" in my post. Be careful of ebay. There are some poor quality LED bulbs out there even from the UK suppliers. I bought a pair of sidelight LED bulbs for the Astra and they only lasted 8 months. I bought some decent quality one which are still going strong to this day. I compiled a lightbulb guide for the Dolomite on the TDC forum which was for lightbulbs in general but is useful for ordering LED bulbs.
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Beware of using the bright white bulbs. Through coloured filters they look a bit washed out. To get round this you can either use coloured LEDs or warm white ones. I've got coloured tail/brake lights and whar white sildelights in LED on the Dolomite.
