DJT

That one is for a Spitfire. Have you tried ringing Paddocks or Robsport? They often have good s/hand parts available. The Stag steering shaft (151032) rarely wears out, so there should be plenty of good used ones about.

Have you tried taking the ignition lock to a locksmith? They may be able to make a key to fit, especially if you can take a similar key along with you so they can see the cross-section.

Julian, Each carb has a vent lever that acts on a vent piston. These can stick and cause problems such as you describe. Find the vent piston on your carbs and try freeing them up by moving them in and out whilst lubricating with a thin oil. This picture shows the lever:

Use a length of wooden broom handle in the lifting eye to add a bit of leverage for tightening the belt. Just don't overdo it.

Just don't over tighten the bolts. Those threads can strip quite easily......

There is a supercharged Stag in London area. It was modified by Tony Hart at Enginuity and, apart from wheels and bonnet flutes it looks pretty standard despite putting out about 230BHP. http://www.enginuity.co.uk/page4/page9/index.html Google 'Supercharged Stag' and you will find plenty of pictures and YouTube footage. As for the Lexus V8 in a Stag, there is one 'down under'. Again, 'Google Lexus V8 Stag' and, as if by magic, pictures appear.....

Have a look here:http://www.triumphstag.net/start/index.htm Click on Technical Area on the left side, then click on Suspension & Steering. Scroll down and there is an excellent description of how to do the job, including links to diagrams.

699 wrote:As far as I know no Stromberg carbs have such lifting pins. As suggested try with the needle shoulder flush with the bottom of the piston. Then try a full turn upwards. Anti clockwise if I'm not mistaken. Also make sure the jets in the carb bodies are at even height.  Makes for easier initial setting. Should it still be too weak with needles at extreme rich then you may tap the jets a bit further in. Julian Clockwise to richen, anti-clockwise to weaken.

No enemies, Julian. It's just that a great many Stag owners derive a huge amount of information from that forum and consider the membership fee well spent just for that. It certainly isn't a rip off! Anyway, safeguarding the future of the Stag is the most important thing, so if I can help in any small way, then I'm happy to do so.

I've got a box full. 24thou or 0.61mm. After your comments on FB about the SOC I was tempted not to bother to reply to this, but there you go. Life's too short..........

Here is a picture of a Stag box c/w A-type OD. The inhibitor switch on this one is on top of the extension housing.

thescrapman wrote:Do not some of the boxes have an inhibitor switch running below the gearstick off the rear of the extension? Not sure if that would be reverse light or 3/4 inhibitor. Cheers Yes. My old 1971 Mk1 was like that and it was the OD inhibitor switch.

The rear sill/wing join didn't change during the production run. It should mirror the lower section of the front wing, i.e. Have a pronounced step as per the green Stag. Mallard is roughly correct regarding the sill trim and paint history.

Hi Bob, No, the carbs feed two cylinders in each bank. Left carb: 2-3-5-8 Right carb: 1-4-6-7 4% is not bad. You could go a bit leaner, but don't overdo it. Dave

Hi Bob. Welcome to Stag ownership. The carb setup is well described in the Repair Operations Manual. Plenty for sale on eBay. Generally start with the Delrin washer on the needle flush with the bottom of the air valve (piston) then adjust up or down slightly when fine tuning.

Blinding........ Or it will be when the sun shines on it  8)

thescrapman wrote: The clever ones stocked up on the old pads when they saw the writting on the wall. Got 2 more sets of 1970's era Ferrodo pads for my Pi on the shelf £5 a set I seem to remember...... :-) I would hardly call it 'clever' to continue to use pads containing asbestos. Even if you use the correct protective gear and procedures, you risk contracting asbestosis every time you service the brakes. A particularly horrible disease which is on the increase. Many mechanics don't yet realise they have it........ Much better to pay a bit extra and fit Mintex 1144 if 'ordinary' pads aren't good enough for you.

CRAJ wrote:I have Stag brakes on the pi and the front of the estate, I use nos pads if I can. They have asbestos in them so be careful and they make the front wheels black but they don't wear the discs and they do brake well. Also much cheaper than the Mintex 1144 (which I would use if I didn't have the nos ones). Colin. Just as well this forum has a limited readership. It has been illegal to sell brake pads, clutches, gaskets, or anything else containing asbestos for years. Whether it be retail, auto jumble or eBay.

The wires to the switch often break due to fatigue.

Look in the Repair Operations Manual section 57.20.20 Download one from here: http://www.grampianstags.net/restorations.htm and click on the Triumph Banner logo.

Take it for a thorough test drive - at least 10 miles - include leaving it ticking over for at least 10 minutes whilst stationary. Check the oil and water levels before and after. Keep an eye on the temp gauge. It shouldn't go beyond half way in these temperatures. As for the ticking sound. I bet it was from the LH head around #6 cylinder. This is quite common. My last Stag had this for 16 years (60,000 miles) without problem and only disappeared when I fitted a new (not recon) cylinder head. It could be a sticking cam bucket or a loose valve guide. As Nibby says, it is unusual for water to mix with the oil on a Stag engine.

The standard setup is fine for normal use. If replacing the rubber hoses, which you should, then consider Goodridge hoses. Greenstuff pads are also a good option.

Stag lighting fuses are under the bonnet. This is the fuse chart from the ROM. It is also in the handbook.

195/65 15 tyres are slightly smaller in RD than the 185/80 14. It is really noticeable if you have them stacked on top of each other. 195/65 15 are very close to the later-fitted 175/80 14 tyres. If you can get them, then 195/70 15 would be ideal, but they aren't a popular size. I'm currently running 15" wheels with 196/65 tyres having taken the original 14" wheels off to refurbish them. They were fitted with 185/80 on the rear and 175/80 tyres on the front, so I've been able to compare them on and off the car.

taylormoran wrote:The seam between the wings and the top panel can be done in situ using a combination of traditional welding and modern epoxy glue. Line everything up, clamp from beneath, then tack weld from above. Grind these welds down, then force 2-pack vehicle body glue down into the join from above. When cured, dress the seam, apply enough body filler to cover the join and form the 'seam'. Mine was done a year ago and is still fine, with no sign of cracking.