dazzer
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Everything posted by dazzer
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The Tr4 engine mounts are much beefier and I think you can get heavy duty versions.
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As a temporary fix I've just got a couple of the Earlpart remanufactured items. The top mounting stud on one of them is on a lovely jaunty angle... quality stuff what.
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Sounds ideal Ferny. Where are the kits available from? Dazzer
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Or replace the centre head studs with MKII studs which will require the block and head drilling and tapping. Definitely no problems thereafter, however much you thrash the living daylights out of it. You then torque the centre studs to 65 and the original studs on the thin edge of the head to 45... Well worth the effort.
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Hi Alec Its the easier J type I've done, although it can be a stubborn little **** to get the eccentric cam to slide in & out. Makes it much lighter if space is tight and there's also the added bonus of EP90 down the back of the neck. Darren
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I've split the overdrive on a couple of occasions and replaced under the car but then I enjoy pain.
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You can always split the overdrive off the box to reduce the weight.
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Don't need to support the engine the rocker cover will touch the bulkhead and stop it going too far. Removed the gearbox three times on axle stands on the drive a pit would be luxury.
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Hi guys The last set were the better spec witor type but they've both detached from the backing plates. Perhaps fitting some updated TR mounts would just require a single drilled hole on the base.
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There doesn't appear to be a supplier of poly engine mounts, which appears peculiar as everything else even the obscure is. I've come across three different types of rubber remanufactured as well as different NOS bits. I'm on my third set after 30k, albeit rallying. Has anyone seen Poly engine mounts? Otherwise I'm going to modify and go for something a bit more substantial. Dazzer
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Heres a good guess for you. Red live, black ground, white will probably be neg terminal on coil, yellow will probably be illumination for the tach so take a suitable dash light feed. It could be visa versa with the yellow and white but white is usually ign. Cheers
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You're missing the fun of crawling underneath the car with the gearbox on your chest on a damp gravel drive, with the overdrive removed for lightness, which then proceeds to drip cat piss scented EP90 all over you eventually running down and dripping off the back of your neck... luxury. Some people pay a lot of money for that sort of thing.
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I might be late on this thread but the diff nose extension usually has shed loads of end float in it. Nothing to worry about. I've had three variants over ten years and they all do it. The latter now 30k+. Used under hard rally use has the same end slop it had when I started... perfect. Cheers Dazzer
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It's a trial and error thing. mine had that much play anything was an improvement but I just swapped things around and kept tightening it up to check resistance before deciding on the number of various washers. Cheers Dazzer
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Just done this job and it's relatively easy to do on the car. You can get a big socket and extensions on from the top to do the pinion play first. This will be tight so you'll need a strong arm (extension bar) don't take too many shims out as it will lock the steering up, check it lock to lock after you've removed shims. The inner ball joints can be felt inside the gaiters. Get someone to waggle the steering whilst you feel for play. It's pretty obvious if its present. On the ball joints you have to add shims to take up play and they are a different size from the top pinion shims. I used general shims from a selection I had which fitted. Just tap back the lock tabs and undo the nut. Add shims and re tighten until no play is present and there is a slight resistance (you'll need to release the track rod ends to gauge this.) tap your lock tabs back over and refit the rubber gaiters which in all honesty was the most difficult part of the process, slippery **!%rs. Job done. Dazzer
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Hmm Thinking back to when mine was standard and the head gasket was indeed leaking slightly into cylinders 3 & 4 over a long period of time I cant remember it pressurising things to this extent. It kept spitting water out and running hot. It had corroded the tops of the bores. There was no outward sign of water from the exhaust though, so I dont think it can be eliminated by the lack of water vapour from the tailpipe. I'd be inclined to get a chemical reaction check kit which you put in the coolant and it turns orange? I belive if there is exhaust gases present. In fact I'm sure some antifreeze brand used to change colour when there was a problem. This was back in the 70s and 80s mind. I have seen this pressure before on a cracked cylinder head, not a Triumph but a big valve 2300 vauxhall. The cracks where visible from the spark plug holes to the valve on inspection though, fairly major stuff. Darren
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It really sounds like the head gasket. Is your engine the early narrow head six? They are prone to this, and as already mentioned between the middle cylinders. You can completely cure the problem by having the long head studs changed for later MKII larger head studs and have the head drilled out accordingly to accept these, then torque these down to the higher figure for MKIIs. Not a big expense and well worth the effort. I had this done on my early MK1 that also has very high compression and it's still OK in competition 30k later. PS it's only the long head studs to change, the short head studs are left original and torqued to the original old figure. Cheers Darren
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It would still run ok with a 7lb no problem if all was well. I still have a 7lb cap (just what I had to hand) on my high comp rally project engine with a standard thermostat and it struggles to get to normal temp, only just edging above normal when thrashed on tests. Rad was upgraded about five years ago (extra cores in a standard shell) and I removed the standard fan. Just an electric pusher on manual only when required. Oh and one of those superb modified alloy water pumps from racestorations which cost an arm and a leg but as with all things you get what you pay for. Cheers Darren
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Inner track rod end off. In answer to my own question no they are different. However suitable shim found in my general shim box and I also note that Mr Witor sells them if anyone else requires them in the future. Easy peasy to do on the car as well even with a sump guard to contend with.
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I'm going to reduce the inner track rod freeplay, i presume after a quick scan in the workshop manual that I should be adding shims to do this? If so are the shims the same as the shock absorber cap nut shims? Because I've just removed, and have three of them spare. I dont have any others. Dont want to start dismantling if I havent got the correct shims. I'm doing this rack on car. Cheers Dazzer
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Well done Nigel. If thats what you can achieve this year with the technical probs and a limited entry... next year... Theyd better watch out! Cheers Darren