dazzer
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Everything posted by dazzer
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Ok Pic is good. No not on either of my blocks they have a smaller mount dummy further back which clears the extractor pipes OK. Ted Your engine is a nice early 64 at 13392, Mine is a Feb 65 at 23483 so approx 10k units inbetween if they run in numerical order and the yearly production was there or thereabouts then 48128 my other engine must be pushing 67/68? Davemate you have later core plugs on yours as well. An improvement in my book as I've had to fit retaining straps on mine (earlier dished type) and they do like to pop out in competition. Is yours a 68 motor Dave?
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If it helps and for info for myself. My original 2000 rally engine is engine number mb23483 the later engine ive just aquired is mb48128. Neither has the large square mount. So does the larger square mount casting only appear on mkII 2000 blocks and not narrow head 2000 mk1s? I presume its to get the extractor manifold to fit. Dazzer
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I would have advised checking the compressions before doing anything, but you may have already done this. The heavy oil might have made it a tad rich but quite helpful for a cold start. Look forward to hearing the solve.
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Managed to catch the guy at work today. Unfortunately they've scrapped it along with the shed it was in! You'd have been welcome to it if I'd have got it home. Although I don't think it would be that hard to copy. It was basically part of a front cross member with the two angle iron chassis legs leading back to the gearbox with the gearbox suspended from the top. With legs on. In a nutshell. I think it would be a nicer job to actually get an old TR6 chassis and chop the aft off. Used to have some old TR4 chassis but scrapped them. Cheers Darren
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Hi guys I'll pop by this weekend to see what the score is with the stand. I just removed the engine and the box to fit it in the Laguna. Thanks for the info on the propshaft Colin
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Hi Alan The nice thing about the engine is that it was free. But thank you for the warning. I'll be thoroughly checking it out and taking it to 60 thou overbore to start, if the block and crank stand up to scrutiny that is at the engineers who rebuilt my last motor. Which is still performing after much abuse. The gearbox is an A type manual non overdrive, so not sure what to do with it but I'm sure it'll come in useful for something. I tend to run J type overdrive. Does the prop length change from manual non to manual o/d or does the gearbox extension take care of the difference?
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Just picked up a nice original 2000MK1 engine and non overdrive gearbox from a local College. MB48128HE So probably 67/68? Its later than my 65 anyway. Talk about coincidence I was at an Autosolo in the Colleges grounds, mostly moderns but lots of interest in the 2000 especially after a number of drifts and that amazing 6 cylinder howl, when a chap came over and said they had an old engine & gearbox on a test stand that was just collecting dust and he thought it looked very much like the engine in mine. Ever the pessimist I said I thought it would probably be a MKII, but no it was a lovely original MK1 narrow head with all the original very clean ancillaries on a proper test bed with a wooden plinth with all the ignition controls and regulator/ oil pressure gauge etc. All professionally fitted out as they used to have at the technical College I went to back in the 70s. Still has the early Laycock doughnut pressure plate fitted. Doesn't look to have been anywhere. Still on STD pistons etc. Nice one to warm over for the replacement in the 2000 rally car. Its amazing what turns up. Cheers Dazzer I was at
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Hi Steve Cant find the invoice but it's one of these with the matched bore. You also need to order the push rod clevis to suit. They do cheaper versions but it test fitted straight on and Girling looked reasonably original period but I'm sure others might work just as well. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.do?method=view&n=1717&g=249578&p=39614&c=215&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Brake%20Master%20Cylinders%20&%20Reservoirs&gclid=CNHYn7LFn8ECFabLtAodFGkALA
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Yes I purchased a new cylinder and all the gubbings from Demon Tweeks a couple of years ago ready to fit but then the original master decided to behave itself again. I'll try to find the details of it
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Thanks Andy
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Just checking are early 2000 Mk1 and 2000MKII flat top pistons the same or different?
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And check how far the dipstick tube is into the block.
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My rally 2000 does this if the oil drops below the 3/4 mark between high & low. Ive always topped it up to over full by a quarter again. Never caused a problem with the motor and oil pressure perfect. Do have an oil cooler though. What do the marks on the dipstick look like against another dipstick?
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No problem with the original inertia starter.
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I use the original MK1 inertia starter, because they are light and cheap. Thats on a 10.75.1 comp rally car. Never let me down. Original Pre engaged is a heavy beast though so maybe a hi torque would be an improvement. Lots of makes out there, not always reliable, usually solenoid problems. Cheers Dazzer
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Yes lots of the copper washers supplied have an oversize id Its just a bit slap dash. You can make them work if you very carefully try to centralise them as you tighten. Or go down to the local engineering supplier and get a selection that fit for future use. Cheers Dazzer
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I fitted the Vessey (TR6) hubs as well to my 2000 mk1 rally car about 5 years ago now. Lots of abuse and never been a problem. I had made up HD traditional drive shafts (on second set now) only modification is a little grinding required here and there to stop the larger driveshaft UJs from fouling the trailing arms. Cant remember the price but not too eye watering
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Hi Dave Thank you. I've been offered a spare MK1 engine and was checking it definitely had the early crank… It does look very early though. I'm also checking its not a Standard Vanguard engine as been caught out previously with a mate, to the point where we'd got it into his MKII and then wondered why the gearbox wouldn't fit! Cheers Dazzer
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Early mk1 engines have lighter cranks and the only weak area is the head studs which can be changed for mkII studs (centre studs only) mk1 2000 engine is superior to a mkII in my opinion
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Am i right in presuming that any early narrow head mk1 engine with open crankcase breathing will have the lighter crank? What year did the early engines change to sealed breathing and did the crank change at this point? Thanks experts Dazzer
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I've got a heavy duty clutch fitted and its a bit that way anyway. If its not slipping I'd possibly leave it. Are the bushes OK on the pedal cross shaft? Grab your clutch pedal and see if it has any waggle in it. CW does cheap replacement bushes if it helps, as that is sometimes the problem. Or just push a bit of grease into them. I like 2000s because they never actually completely break, (touch wood) they just get a bit flakey on the edges and regenerate themselves! Cheers Darren
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Does sound like slight piston slap but absolutely nothing to worry about. Sounds fine. You might get a little crankcase comp but perfectly normal. Mine is much louder than that cold because I set the engine up with larger tolerances to avoid seizing. They also go much better when a bit loose. Personally I wouldn't touch it. Drive it and enjoy. Mines been slapping and smoking from the open breather for approx 30k now, but has great oil pressure and plenty of power. Leave well alone and save your cash for something else. Fit some gravel rally tyres then you won't hear anything for the road noise Cheers Dazzer
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Piston slap should improve as the engine warms up and the pistons expand.
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I do, just did mine again, you don't need to compress them too much but you need to handle the whole assembly firmly. I compress the spring a little with the unit off the car (you might get away with not compressing but I feel it makes it easier). Throw the whole unit up and loosely attach the three strut top nuts. Then man handle the strut leg roughly into position. I then use a trolley or scissor jack on the hub which will bring it there or there abouts in line with the four stud holes, you can stick a screw driver down the stud holes to line it all up. Don't forget to slide in the shims on the bottom two studs. (If you say what shims? You've missed them) Easy to do if the whole thing is covered in muck. Last one I did one of the threads had gone. I re-cut it in situ. No probs. Cheers Dazzer
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Sorry I missed the initial question type 21D? I think but same points anyway. Cap any reasonable quality Lucas replacement will do.