dazzer

I've always used EP90 but on collecting my rebuilt/uprated later  J type (bigger layshaft bearings) and overdrive (bigger pump) from the Overdrive repair centre Sheffield, I was recommended to use engine oil... I'll let you know how it goes.

If you leave it long enough a layer of moss will form and act as a protective layer... works for me!

We could start a survey, perhaps it's the brand of clutch? Maybe there's iron particles in  the driven plate lining? I use to encounter this frequently back in the day when we use to collect cars that had been stood for months on end but not weeks. No idea why otherwise. Hope you get it sorted.

Hi Nick Yes, maybe they are 1/8 BSP and have been all along, although NPT seems to have been quoted most often on older threads. Cheers Darren

This has been visited before (sorry cant locate the thread) but thought I'd revisit as I've just replaced on the latest re incarnation of my rally engine. I'm referring to the small 1/8 NPT hex head alloy bungs along the oil gallery. However you approach removing these, sometimes they come out, sometimes they don't without a struggle. Anyway once you've got them out finding replacements is a difficult task. You can order them blind off ebay or go to your local engineering supplies who probably wont have 1/8 NPT end caps off the shelf. However they will have 1/8 BSP and they fit perfectly with a nice resistance and they come in different deigns either with the Allen key head or my preferred with a proper socket head. Not aluminium but stainless or plated steel. Getting them out: Heat seems to be most effective and also try clockwise first then anti. If you round off the hex head (easy as very soft) drill out the centre and hammer in an old flat blade screwdriver and twist with a HD pair of grips (works for me) Hope this helps.

Some are winkers but you were lucky he wasnt a complete cint, they're the worst type.

This is just an opinion from my experience with the rally 2000. I used to have a filter fitted (disposable) between the pump and the carbs. But I had a heat/delivery issue, yes we've all been there, so I removed it and just run with the metal gauze filter in the pump. 40k in no fuel problems at all, carbs happy etc as per the factory set up and I'm still on my original 65 fuel tank. I have no technical data but I would have thought a filter or filters would cause a pump to work a little harder.   

Hi Dave Ive found the mechanical AC pumps to be pretty robust, i use them on the rally car and not had a problem since i found a good one. I found a number of glass top varieties with a reacurring problem in that the flange had been overtightened and the faces wouldnt seal. That aside pretty bullet proof. You can pop new valves in , NOS being better if you can find them.

Well not a soldering iron as you describe but i do have a big elecric fella as you refer. Looks to be pre war but serviceable that i,ve previously used on meaty jobs. It is electric and the light goes dim in the garage when its on!

Thanks guys. Will do soldering iron at the ready.

Thanks Alec Good point i was wondering how to crimp the cable sucessfully. Cheers Dazzer

Thanks all for the info. Much appreciated! Dazzer

Could be as simple as a loose wire on the solenoid or relay (if fitted) Had the same symptoms it was a loose wire.

Hi D Here's memory for you. In 1983 my mate bought a maroon MKII 2000 with a damaged block and shot engine. We went to the local scrappy near RAF Cottesmore in Rutland and pulled out of the dirt a six pot which we thought was an early 2000 lump. We spent a good while cleaning it up and preparing only to find when we offered it up to the gearbox that it didn't fit. Obviously this is a while ago but I really think it was a bit more fundamental then just swapping out the clutch. I don't think the bolt holes lined up, or the input shaft is just too long or something, it was something major? Anyway it was that much of a problem that we sold the engine to someone in the Vanguard club and found another engine. Cheers Dazzer

Thanks Guys I'l err on the side of caution and go for thicker where applicable. I've got everything laid out ready to dive in, looked daunting to start with but its making more sense off the car. Cheers

Ok all you electrical Gurus. What gauge wire should I be using for a 120amp alternator? and indeed what other wiring might I need to change in addition to the obvious main feed out of the alternator. This is on a 2000 MK1 that has had a 65amp running quite merrily on the standard loom. I've now removed the loom and was going to make a copy with a few extras but beef it up where necessary. I can tell that someone is going to ask why do you need a 120 amp alternator? The reason being that i have a 24amp rad fan 2 x 7 amp blower fans (engine bay cooling), halogen lights x 4, uprated heater fan, rally trip, clocks, int lights etc etc and I'm looking at fitting front and rear heated screens. Currently on all night rallies with all the lights on in rally mode with the cooling fans running the 65amp cant keep up with the draw, result flat battery. So this time round I'm going for spare capacity. Choices in lightweight alternators 55 amp, 90 amp or 120amp.   Cheers Dazzer    

Find something solid a strong arm or a scaffold bar place gently against the side of the head then belt the bugger with a big hammer, metal to metal works better than wood. Or make sure all the valves are fully closed fill the bores with oil, spark pugs in and wang it over with a windy gun or even a hefty fast lever on a strong arm. Failing that place a small pea sized piece of C4 in each plug hole insert fuse, make sure the wife and kids are out, the cats a few gardens away and your house insurance is up to date.  

As a temp fix to try if it is the original inertia type starter pop a spanner on the square drive and give it a quarter turn. Try again. Its relatively easy to take the starter off as well if its jammed.

Thanks DJT. The Hoop could be a neat basis for an integrated solution though. I made the current ROB from TR ROB Parts which has passed scrutineering no problem, but i think an improvement could be made from the Stag fitment.

Interesting, thanks guys, so has anyone got images of how the b posts and T bar comes together and is attached to the shell?

Is the Stag ROB aesthetic or does it actually offer protection? If it does is it a bolt in or weld in option? Im just re-assesing the practical application of my existing full ROB which makes the rear seats redundant in my 2000 rally saloon against a possible ready made Triumph Stag option.

I've used electric pumps previously and always ended up back with the old AC mechanical pump because of there general robustness. Even when they're shot they work of a fashion. Too many times have I beaten SU pumps to within an inch of their life every time they stop (points type) or have been deafened by a solid mounted electric pump someone thought was a good idea to bolt directly to the bulkhead. I'm sure the newer versions are much more reliable... You could always fit two. One as a back up.

Hi Steve I fitted a kenlowe pusher fan when I first started rallying and removed the manual fan at the same time. I attached it to the rad with the plastic ties that go through the core and never had a problem and that includes removing it once when we hit a wall and re attaching it using the same method. I also had my rad upgraded which may have been a mistake as the car over cools. This time round I'm going to go for a standard spec rad. I only have mine on manual and its only ever on stationary in traffic for prolonged periods or on tests. Not required when moving as always runs cool. I also fitted one of those fandango water pumps from Racestorations. Makes a huge difference from the standard, but once again this may contribute to my overcooling problem. Darren

Thank you Richard much appreciated. Hi Lee, I can when I can get at it, unfortunately its locked up at the welders who's away for a week... always the way when you need important measurements and my rally 2000 has been modified and all reference has been lost. Cheers Darren

Hi Richard Thank you