dazzer
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Everything posted by dazzer
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Im hoping someone can help. Does anyone have the correct bumper mount centres measurements for front and back for a 2000 mk1? The measurement from one bolt centre on the fastening point across to the other mounting point centre Unfurtunately mines been modified and im trying to establish exactly where they should be.. Thank you
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You could try taking out the oil pressure relief valve and seeing if a bit of old gasket or anything isn't holding it open. Seen this a few times on low oil pressure problems. Quick painless thing to check as well. Dazzer
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RM8254 is the Rimmer Part number for a Motolita + boss to fit MK1s. Might do the boss separate?
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Its definitely got the recess for the horn push so must be MK 1. Maybe they've discontinued it?
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I got my MK1 Boss form Rimmers about four/five years ago. Perhaps they list it as something else.... MkII? Stag? I fitted a Motolita.
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I've only ever had problems with a rack in competition. Even on solid mounts if not really firmly bolted down the rack can move enough so that the pinch bolt in the UJ jams against the body. Usual resulting in ever decreasing circles.
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Chris was having some new thicker ones produced with brass lugs I believe. Depends whether you got some of the first or second batch. I got the first batch mine lasted a week (no jokes about the weight please) It was the same problem with TRs they had a batch of seat diaphragms produced that didn't work. They then produced a much thicker version which solved the problem. Its a manufacturing problem. Chris will sort it out.
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Well spotted on the welds. They are a modification that Dennis Vessey do to all the race LSDs. I believe its to stop the seal being pushed out and loss of diff oil. They are all like this and its stated on the build bill as 'modify output shaft Brg retainers' Yes the diff does get a lot of full power drop clutch hard surface loose surface into reverse and pop the clutch again and repeat... I think the expression is abuse. Only on clubman rallying and the odd autotest though.
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Thanks guys Here's a pic of the usual result. Cheers Darren
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Hi The diff output stub shaft. Two snapped in the last couple of years. Not the end of the world but if an improvement could be made I'm up for having some made. Cheers darren
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What grade of steel were Triumph differential output shafts made of? Is there a grade that would have better resistance to shearing? Dazzer
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Would love to if I get a minute away from the job. Sounds great Cheers Darren
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Hi John I forgot to elaborate that the blue flame is most prominent at switch off and lights the drive way up after dark. Also accompanied by a lovely WHOOPH! Its a combination of a dizzy with a retarded curve, (idle at 14 deg btdc) an early PI cam and a 10.75.1 comp. The result, technically speaking of course, is that it goes like stink. Dazzer
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Wow interesting thread. Thought I'd give my practical/factual experience of the exhaust wrap question. Exhaust wrap. Firstly I may have missed something but never wrap a cast manifold it will disintegrate. Stainless manifold absolutely fine and yes it does glow red of an evening if you take a look and the manifold looks sh***@ when you remove the wrap but practicable it offers two advantages over not wrapping. One it definitely reduces the heat which causes the fuelling problems (may factual experience over 50k and many rallies) and two, it produces the most wonderful exhaust note... and a blue flame out of the tail pipe! Its worth it just for that. Lots of technical blurb about stainless manifolds disintegrating over time with wrap. I'm 50k and five years in and the manifold is still in one piece, its just discoloured. I've run the car without wrap and its a different beast, sounds light weight and the fuel vaporisation problems re appear where they never did before. I also use heat shields (wrapped with plumbers pads) and have a large fan blowing on the carbs. So its a belt and braces job, but the full package works and the fan is particularly useful in competition. You can feel hesitation as the heat builds up but flick on the fan and it disappears almost instantaneously. I initially had the manifold wrapped completely down to where it attaches to the front pipe, with locking wire holding everything on. I then reduced it to all the individual six pipes. I'm rebuilding my rally car and its all going back on. It really does alter the exhaust note. My manifold is one of CWs extractors on the old narrow head. Cheers Dazzer
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Mental note when making flares. Always remember to pop the collars onto the pipe before you make the flare... been there done that.
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Could be a build up of rust on the inner side of the disc inner edge. Put a nice smear of copper slip on the back of the pads and a slight smear on the top and bottom edges tap them in if they are a bit tight and also forget your G clamp to push the pistons back. You can lever them back with a big flat screw driver or lever and see that the piston is actually fully retracted. Do one piston get the pad in then do the other piston. Copper slip the pins as well. Get some P40 on the discs as well to break the glaze whilst its apart. The new pads will bed in better. You wont break or distort anything levering the pistons in... well i guess theres always the first time! but ive been putting them in like this since my BL days and not bent or broken anything yet in 40 years.
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Sounds amazing. I guess the bonnet is lighter as well.
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Hi Tim Would it be possible to see a pic of the finished results? I'm looking at different solutions and a panel sounds sensible. One brave local chap feels he could unpick the whole of the roof and weld in a donor roof panel. Has done this with rally escorts to get the roll cages in. Cheers Dazzer
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Or never come out. Impaired visibility? Only if your eyesight is any good to start with. Like the extra leak benefits... I'll add them to the tip. Cheers Dazzer
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Ultimate stop leak. Anyone new to the marque might want to take note of this ultimate stop leak for the webasto or weathershield roof option. Stops those annoying damp patches on the trouser area in inclement weather. Materials required: Pallet wrap (any colour) Skill level required: Able to walk in circles and not get dizzy. One in a series professional tips for the Triumph enthusiast. Dazzer
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I think there is something fundamentally wrong Phil if you are on reasonable standard needles and you're having to take it a full seven turns down! Firstly are you on 150 CDs and are they the early type you adjust from below. One turn down anticlockwise (from below) being 360 degrees, not one flat? If its yes to all of the above then I'd check the needles and jets are correct and matched (will have a small 6j imprinted on the needle shoulder that locates in the piston. Then check you are starting with the needle shoulder flush with the piston and the jet absolutely level with the bridge, not protruding above. Take it a full three x 360 degree turns down on both carbs. See if it will run OK. If not and precluding any huge air leaks I'd be inclined to purchase new needles & jets as there are different sizes of jets in strombergs between 150s and 175s. So you might have correct needles but incorrect jets or some mismatch. Hope this helps
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For a while i ran in competition with a spax adjustable one side and a kyb the other. Made absolutely no difference that i could detect.
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Everyones upgrade will be different depending upon the type and/or hardness of poly bushes or if rubber has been retained used. Also any other mechanical mods. You can mix and match to great effect. My rally 2000 which handles absolutely flat but still retains a really comfortable ride uses 1" shorter springs at the rear, with softer blue poly bushes on the trailing arms and the subframe (i beefed the diff mounts up and altered the bushes to suit). I also use the latest subframes with the bean can bushes (these can fail if abused but fine for normal use). Up front all hard red bushes and standard height springs. With CW track control bush mods. Also solid rack mounts and one of CWs very reasonable priced quick racks. ARB is on stanard mounts if fitted but really transforms the handling.
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In my opinion its favourable to slap a bit of grease around as well as pack the bearing. Don't over pack it but put a blob in the hub and in the cap will stop ingress of water and cause no problems. I've packed bearings for years (BL apprenticeship) and never had any problems. My rally 2000 is seven years in now with the same bearings and I've been pretty generous with LM grease. Adjustments important though. I come across so many taper roller bearings that are over tight. New you'll need to re visit them anyway so just nip them up lightly, then back them off slightly, then very lightly, no more than you could apply with a pair of pliers, keep thumping the wheel and gradually tightening until the play just disappears, go the next flat to get the split pin in if necessary but there are usually a couple of drillings on the stub axle to find a perfect position. Oh and the split pin, use one that fits not these loose thin things which people bend around the stub. Good fit split pin, side snip the rear prong short and bend slightly into the castelated nut or cover and leave the outer prong a reasonable length and bend up against the end of the stub facing you.
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Hi Phil The Strombergs should give you no problem set up with correct parts. I'm wondering whether the kits are actually the real thing? Did you get them from Burlen or Gower & Lee or similar? I've come across thick rubber diaphragms before that were sourced on eBay. It might also be the centering of the jets that could be causing the pistons to stick and not falling to the bottom position. Have you checked the float heights? I've also come across 150CDs with leaking needle valves because of crud coming from the original steel pipe that loops between the two carbs. at the bottom of the loop corrosion collects and then moves to the needle valves holding them open. Hope this helps. Cheers Darren