dazzer
-
Posts
435 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by dazzer
-
My personal experience is that the standard ARB does improve things in competition with nice flat neutral handling. What also helps (and I don't know why) is 1 inch lower uprated on the rear but standard uprated on the front. Also after trying all types of shocks KYB are brilliant. The worst of the bunch is Spax, complete and utter crap, both fronts failed within 9 months went back to standard KYB.
-
I had the same reservations with the push through ties when I received them with a big kenlowe pusher fan. However I fitted them on the 2000 rally car with the ties and its never been a problem. Had to remove them after I hit a dry stone wall and it cracked a seam on the rad. refitted them and been fine since. Been on probably five/six years in total. So they do work.
-
http://www.racetorations.co.uk.....d-pulley-billet-p403 This is a link to the pump i fitted four years ago now, not cheap but it made a hell of a difference to anything else id tried. Cheers Dazzer
-
Hi John Ive got the opposite problem that you have in that im always over cooling on the rally 2000. I fitted a racestorations alloy water pump and had the max number of cores put into the original early 2000 rad. I run with a thermostat and removed the fan altogether . I have a manual pusher fan. Which i only turn on if stationary for more than 5 mins or so. When moving the temp drops right off to approx 1/4 the heat from the heater matrix becomes luke warm. I can only get it reading on half/normal if its absolutely thrashed for competition. Been this way for over 40k now. So you could try a racestorations alloy pump. Not cheap but works for me. Cheers Dazzer
-
Just for reference when you're ordering the 1144s for MKII caliber/discs you require MLB40-CTECH 1144 They are a straight replacement but they are sided I seem to remember, if they don't go straight in flip them round and they will. Cheers Dazzer
-
Series 1 to 3 jag xj?
-
I asked the local motor factors about Cord rings and ridge dodgers only a couple of weeks ago. They'd never heard of them either. Good to see you've got spme Marcus. Yes I seem to remember it was a 73 vintage FE Victor I fitted them to last when I was an apprentice in the early 80s. Great bit of kit. The Victor sadly is long gone.
-
I've not used them either. I usually get AP Racing products from TR Enterprises which are bomb proof but more expensive than Drive Torque types. I guess the best way to test them is buy one and give it a damned good thrashing!
-
I could give you the distance for a weathershield roof on a MK1 that was fitted in 65. Is Weathershield and Britax one of the same? Dazzer
-
Always impressive when pulling up outside the chippy. Where the wrap had started to disintegrate, if you opened the bonnet on an evening you could see the glow of the exhaust pipe between the bands of exhaust wrap. Amazing that it can be heated up to a cherry red then cooled again and still be in one piece after 40k. I did read that it shortens the life of a manifold. It was a CW variety although being the MK1 version didnt line up very well with the head ports. I've had to heat up and 'adjust' previously. Cheers Dazzer
-
Just an observation. After changing my head gasket i didnt re wrap the extractor manifold as id planned to take the engine out in the near future anyway. Result: The impressive flame flash and pop has gone on switching off and it doesnt sound quite as good as it did. Its lost some of its deep growl. Im guessing the manifold no longer glowing cherry red is failing to ignite unspent fuel as the ignition is switched off. Its had the wrap on for 40k and manifold still in one piece. Doesnt look pretty though.
-
Ill Need to change to emarked road tyres next year for one of the hrcr series. Energys sound good. What about vredestein? Need to be 185 × 13 can be 65s now. With the gravel rally tyres i currently use nothing road tyre appears to touch them for grip. Also put soft compound front and medium compound rear. Which contradicts having the less grippy tyres on the front from the old crossply / radial adverts. But is perfectly balanced and stable in practice. Tried some e marked falkens which had top ratings for grip and braking for a night rally and was not impressed. Bucket fulls of understeer and hairy no grip braking moments. Dont be fooled by the e ratings although I am comparing them to a rally tyre so maybe a little unfair.
-
Had county +60 in the rally car for 45k now. Hi comp, thrashed to within an inch of their life and no problems whatsoever. They were lighter than originals as well. Individually bored with larger tolerances in the hotter areas. I'm using them again on my latest rebuild. Cant fault them.
-
The Distributor Doctor http://www.distributordoctor.com is good if you wanted your original dizzy sorting. Just give him the overall spec of the engine and what you are wanting to do and he'll give it an appropriate curve. Cheers Dazzer
-
As said they shouldn't rotate as they do then wear away the stub axle. The spacers with tapered roller bearing where actually fitted in the early days. I had a 1960 AH 3000 with spacers but many people discarded them over the years as couldn't see the sense with tapered roller bearings.
-
Yep For the 2000 with high comp 11:1 and TR5 cam the dizzy is set at 13 deg max advance. Goes like stink and at that you can run it on 95 when supers not available and even under load not a sign of pinking.
-
My only recent experience is taking the inertia starter off and on the 2000 with witor extractor and sump guard. Works fine. Lighter than pre engaged as well and turns over the nearly 11. 1 comp fine.
-
There's quite a few different spacers. Is this for a standard starter? Im sure you can get a pre engaged off and on with an extractor manifold. Inertia is no problem and ive taken a pre engaged off a tr5 with extractor manifold still attached. Dont think youll have a problem
-
Wow, Look fantastic. Top company Enkei for alloys. They have a nice retro cosmic, revolution look to them Dazzer
-
The 175 strombergs are a reasonable cheap upgrade as the TR boys don't value them. Put a wanted add the TR register forum and you'll probably pick some up for £25.00. They make a noticeable difference throughout the range but only if you fit ram pipes, open up your manifold and affix with just two studs, standard TR4 needles work fine. slight difference in the body between TR4 and TR4A but nothing to get hung up about. Also open up the restrictions between 2 & 5. You don't need a flow meter just grind away until it looks right. Or you can always give it to a machine shop to sort. The carb bolt holes need elongating as well. The front carb ram pipe will touch the strut housing if you give it beans on standard engine mounts, but if you fit vibra tech mounts and/or cant the engine over it will clear just clear. Use a bit of loose easy breath foam and mesh to make up a custom filter. Sounds awesome. Dazzer
-
The 175 strombergs are a reasonable cheap upgrade as the TR boys don't value them. Put a wanted add the TR register forum and you'll probably pick some up for £25.00. They make a noticeable difference throughout the range but only if you fit ram pipes, open up your manifold and affix with just two studs, standard TR4 needles work fine. slight difference in the body between TR4 and TR4A but nothing to get hung up about. Also open up the restrictions between 2 & 5. You don't need a flow meter just grind away until it looks right. Or you can always give it to a machine shop to sort. The carb bolt holes need elongating as well. The front carb ram pipe will touch the strut housing if you give it beans on standard engine mounts, but if you fit vibra tech mounts and/or cant the engine over it will clear just clear. Use a bit of loose easy breath foam and mesh to make up a custom filter. Sounds awesome. Dazzer
-
Thanks guys. I've decided to go with the same again as after checking out numerous sites the gap recommendations for county pistons range from 0.0025 (supposedly minimum for a road car) through to 0.0060+ for performance applications. Because my current engine has performed so well I think the variation in bore clearances to take into account the hotter areas of the engine is really worthwhile. Cheers Dazzer
-
Just checking what the experience is with bore clearances for a competition stressed 2000. When i built mine last time round approx 50k ago now i started at 0.0025 no1, 0.0030 no2, 0.0040 no3, 0.0040 no4, 0.0035 no5, 0.0030 no6. Using county pistons. Its been completely reliable although its now showing signs of piston slap when cold. I noted that some guides offer 0.0025 for comp. The reason for the variation in bore clearances is to avoid partial seizures which i experienced in its original incarnation from a 'specialist' rebuild. Luckily got a full refund and started again. They had applied bore clearances of 0.0016 and 0.0018. Which is certainly quiet but is insufficient to allow for expansion. What clearances are commonly used with county pistons?
-
Sounds like a good idea Pete. I got four door seals five years ago spent a day fitting two... and never fitted the drivers side to this day!
-
Sounds like a good idea Pete. I got four door seals five years ago spent a day fitting two... and never fitted the drivers side to this day!