dazzer

Hi Glang Its got a cast impeller with the bigger/more of the fins than the standard pump with four flat/shallow impellers. The more expensive uprated pump has an alloy impeller that has been machined with larger fins. I have this fitted at present but my engine over cools. I'm not saying its the pump but i'm now not so sure an uprated pump is necessary. I use my 2000 for competition and it only strays just above normal when ticking over for long periods. I don't have a crank fan fitted. When I get chance I'm swapping back to a standard pump to see how it performs. Dazzer

Thanks guys. They seem a bit thin on the ground st the moment. I think some fettling as suggested is the only fix.

I'm trying to get hold of a good condition 2000 MK1 Master cylinder. (single circuit) Mine works perfectly but the servo pipe which for the last 50+ years has just touched and the top of the metal reservoir body and a little bit of damp has got between it and a little bit of movement its now got a pin hole leak. Had wondered if anyone had soldered one of these and would the silicone fluid be a problem even if cleaned off. Or would silicone sealant seal against a surface open to silicone brake fluid?... are they compatible? Its not a safety issue as its near the top of the rather tall early cylinder and to stop it leaking I've filled to below the pin hole and tie wrapped a piece of tyre inner tube over the hole. Incidentally silicone brake fluid doesn't attack paintwork, however it does turn the paintwork purple. I now have a lilac inner wing... nice.

Hi Guys Thermostat is correct and checked and I've substituted it. There is no extra by pass the water system is standard apart from the updated pump and HD Rad. Yes did put the foam kit in and the heater is great when the engine up to temp stationary. You've given me another idea though. I'll try restricting or blanking the by pass where it comes out of the thermostat housing. Used to do this on TR4s but that was to get all coolant running through the rad. It may make things worse. I'll give it an experiment. Cheers Darren

Like your thinking glang. Standard pump on order. Cheers dazzer

Previously had overcooling problems with the early 2000 mk1 lump on the early 2000 ventilation system. On this re-incarnation. with a complete body rebuild I've utilised the slightly later system. Massive improvement on air flow and distribution. Which when idling on the spot and the temp gauge reading just above normal (just over halfway with the electric fan cutting in and out 90 degree switch) the heating is lovely. Unfortunately, once again, on the move the engine cools to just quarter on the gauge and the heating is just luke warm. This is once again the radiator and possibly the upgraded water pump being too efficient. its the same with an 82 or 88 thermostat. The manual fan is removed and I've now disconnected the auto fan switch and just use a manual switch which is only ever used stationary for extended periods. Great for warm weather but pants in cold weather. My next thoughts is to fit an alloy radiator to save weight and maybe it will be less efficient. than the copper. The old upgraded square top is now approx 12 years old. Or fit one of the old fashioned manual shrouds. Do the engines cool more on the standard set up when on the move? Cheers Dazzer

The overdrive second can slip on a standard A or J type but with uprated overdrive with a bigger pump it selects immediately with no slip and is very useful for ultra quick changes. I'll record the overdrive in action when I get a chance. Dazzer

Hi Iggy The 2nd gear operation is another inhibitor switch fitted  on top of the gearbox which when fitted and wired in line with the 3rd/4th inhibitor will work with the logic/overdrive with no extra wiring required. The inhibitor might already be there but not wired up? Cheers Darren

Hi Laurence What did you use for a momentary switch? Was it another home made model. The ones I tried came from reputable sources and a couple of switch and kit car specialists. All very fragile.  My home made one is bullet proof but requires a couple of donor switches. Cheers Darren

Hi Roger Sounds good. Yes it was the expensive proprietary momentary switches that all failed. At least we've both found a successful solution. Great system. Cheers Dazzer

Just a heads up for the Logic overdrive kits which I've just fitted to the 2000 rally car... after a bit of faffing with some not fit for purpose parts. Once fitted its great. I have overdrive on second, third and fourth. As you select overdrive which is now one click on the momentary stick it engages as it did previously but when you change up or down it automatically disengages until you dip the switch again. So perfect if you accidentally leave the overdrive engaged and also for quick up changes. Engage second overdrive go for third you get third without flicking out, you can then dip into third overdrive and change up to actual fourth before engaging fourth overdrive. The unit itself which I got from Revington is easy to set up and locate. You have to use a Relay with the unit so if you're already set up for an A type box just a few wires to move about. I'm J type but had left the original relay in place so straightforward. The rubbish parts are the momentary switches with a long stalk if you are retaining the column switch like myself. A number are available from various sources. I've tried them all they are all absolute **@&. Flimsy and disintegrate, or just don't work. (I tried five!) I made my own from a GT6 column switch in the end and a short 25A lucas momentary switch. Works perfectly with a bit of dismantling and grinding and a bit of ingenuity. Also my 50 year 6RA relay was starting to stick and beyond refurb so I made the mistake of trying a modern equivalent Lucas 6RA... big mistake. First didn't work, second worked for an hour. I therefore used a modern 30amp 12v relay I had lying around and that works beautifully. So great system, once you sort the gremlin ancillary parts. Dazzer

Hi Tony You were right. It was the voltage stabilizer. Id put a new loom in the car and the two wires id mixed up. Green and green & light green i really didnt think it matterd which way round they went but obviosly does. Flipped them over and all working fine now. Thank you Darren

Has anyone experienced intermittent gauge reading problems for both gauges? Basically ignition on everything reads ok 30 seconds later both gauges drop off with no reading. ? Many thanks for any input. Darren

As a sub note. The cross shaft and lever Ive now been told was a new Moss item. Info has been passed on and inventory checked. Cheers Darren

Key fob still on my old lockup keys from my time as an apprentice at Armstrong Massey. That would be sometime between 79 and 83. Hull closed down maybe 81 or 82, Beverley is now a Tesco I believe but they still have a car sales spot/ garage in Beverley & Driffield I like the Mkt Weighton phone number. Darren

Hi All Just for your info. Check any 'new' gearbox cross shaft and levers if fitting as the problem wasn't a weak weld but no weld! All it had was two light spots ready for welding but then someone had obviously gone for a tea break or something and it never got welded. I didn't notice this when fitting the box but then why would I check to see if it had been welded. I may just be unlucky or there maybe more out there. Cheers Darren

Thanks All for the ideas and advice. Nick mentioned his Sprint incident and it does appear quite frequently on Sprint forums with all sorts of welding resolves. Alec. I'm going to get it welded in situ and to help access I may cut an access panel into the tunnel to make the job easier. I'll get Ian Jemison to weld it who has done all the other welding on the car sills, alloy wheels, new diff pin mounts, exhausts etc. Always uses gas and even welds magnesium wheels. So if anyone can do it Ian can. Cheers Darren

Eureka! Just crawled underneath the car for a closer look. Its the lever thats parted company with the cross shaft. Its just spinning round the weld must have parted company. Bit fiddly to get at but I reckon I know a welder that can do that in situ. Ive never seen that before has anyone else? Just need to know the correct position now. Is it just straight down? Any images gratefully received Darren

There I was minding my own business rebuilding the rally 2000 for the Rally of the tests (2 weeks!) until I bled the clutch... pop and the clutch fork lever went limp and the piston popped out of the slave... For the life of me I have no idea why its decided to do this. Has anyone experienced this before? Until I drop the box out again I can only speculate. I believe the fork slipper pads have travelled too far and popped out of the release bearing carrier. But why I have no idea. This is a completely rebuilt J type (used it previously) mated to a early 2000 MK1 narrow head engine. Everything is rebuilt and pristine. New slipper pads, carrier, release bearing, AP clutch etc. A set up I've used umpteen times before. Questions: Are all the early MK1 cranks the same (2000). Are all the flywheels the same thickness? The only thing I did different was fit a land rover slave rather than the generic. slave fitted gearbox side of bracket (not as Haynes) centre hole, but even so shouldn't break anything. This was first push of the pedal. No resistance at all in the in the lever fork arm now, just flops about can move it backwards and forwards in both directions as far as it will go. Ideas?

Hi Nigel My last reply disappeared but I think the forums sorted now. Good to hear you've been out and about and you're probably the same as me if you start taking it apart for a new chassis it'll be off the road forever. I'd keep going with what you've got, weld in some strengthening plates to keep it going if necessary. Our TR4 used to crack the dash brace regularly over rough ground but a great car to drive. Your 2000 is very nice. We also tried some of the test based days in the 2000, things like the Doonhamer a few classics and moderns with tests in various locations, great fun and minimal regularity if you were looking for something different. I've only just got back the 2000 body (minus doors, bonnet, boot,) in colour (19 white) well actually BMW Mini Pepper white... very shiny and I've got he running gear thrown in, the short motor and gearbox and the new rally wiring loom in, which was a pig of a job to feed into position. All I have to do now is build everything else up and give it a shakedown before the ROT Anyway keep us up to date with your exploits. Cheers Darren

TR enterprises are very good in my experience but because of this really, really busy. Take a tour of their workshops and be impressed. Speak to Simon Watson knows what he's talking about... unlike some specialists. Dazzer

Whilst the rally 2000 is being rebuilt im using a standard 84 renault 5 TL to do the odd historic event to keep my hand in. Last Sunday we did the Clwyd Vale historic rally and had a bit of a comedy incident. On a regularity section 21 mph I managed with great skill to put it on its side! Spookily to the rescue  and first car on the scene was Cliff England and Peter Rushforth in their Triumph 2000 MK1! They helped us out and got us back on our wheels in minutes. Many thanks guys. I think this is an omen to get back in the Triumph as soon as. For anyone interested in putting a 5 on its side here's the instruction: Drive as fast in reverse as the 1108cc engine will take you (which isnt very fast at all) on a narrow banked lane (as the car blocking the lane wouldnt move) and then attempt to reverse steer into an entrance of a field about 50 yards back. Heres the trick also slam on the innefective brakes as you approach. Job done straight over. Unlike our trusty big saloons which dont even twitch at this manouvre the French love a bit of torsion bar lean over fun. Finshed the rally and drove the car home to North Yorkshire and apart from the offside  Front wing, A post, Door, B post, Rear Wing, roof and guttering the damage isnt too bad! Cheers Dazzer

Hi Nigel Good to hear you're still going strong. Great pictures. You kindly let me drive your TR at Throckmorton a few years ago now. Look forward to hearing more exploits. Yeah Throckmorton with the psycho marshall... who didnt like people from the North West... you couldnt make it up. Look forward to catching up. Cheers Dazzer

Id suggest using a split pin. Roll pins have the potential to disintegrate over time. Ive had split pins on th Triumph 2000 rally car from day one and no problems.

Hi Roger I've not filled the unit as yet so I'll check with them again. I always previously used the GL4 EP90 but a layshaft let go and filled the previous OD with swarf. So I grabbed a late J type box that I recovered from a skip with the input shaft rusted solid, swapped out the input from the old box and filled it with EP90 GL5 and it lasted for 4 years of rallying with no ill effects! Layshaft had started to grumble again so took that box into ORS who have done a beautiful job in rebuilding it. In its defence the 'skip' J type turned out to be one of the stronger later types. I guess I was just lucky. I'll report back on the oil recommendation. Dazzer