Encom
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Everything posted by Encom
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Got a TR6 engine bored to 2.7, cam mid head work, lightened flywheel, triple Dellorto DHLB's (yep not DHLA's) and headers, with Toyota W50 behind it. Figure that should do it :) I have no idea of what sort of power it will put out, but it's got to be better than a 45 year old 2 liter on twin 150's.
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I have a 3.27 with OD in the Vitesse and it really does dull the acceleration. But I am taking the Clarkson approach - More power! :)
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I had FG ones on my first Vitesse, and wouldn't use them again. Let us know the bumper conversion goes I'm looking at doing the same on my wagon :)
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Did mine yesterday, and you are right what a difference it makes - so quiet :) and it goes so much better. Makes me wonder about the cam followers and the rest of the engine now :( Here's the shaft I pulled out (the rockers had oval holes :( )
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I don't know if anyone else has spotted this but this is awesome! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uw0vFFmPew
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I don't know if anyone else has spotted this but this is awesome! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uw0vFFmPew
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I got a kit for my Mk1 Vitesse and noticed that the new rockers are really loose on the new shaft (couldn't find any new pedestals anywhere). I am assuming that the new arms should be a snug fit on the shaft? Thought about having the rocker arms bushed to suit the shaft with something like Thorndon elasticometric tape, and the existing pedestals as well. Is it normal to have to rework new rockers to this extent to get a good fit? If so a Mk1 set of 1.5 ratio rockers from Goodparts might be a better bet in the long term.
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Totally agree, relays (I use Lucas ones, just for the period look) on anything drawing decent amount of power ie: lights, electric fan etc. Nick - That Bussman fuse box looks goods, I had used a larger saloon one, but that one does have an old school look, with lots of fuse ways. I think I'll give one a go.
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Went to Pararubber and got some 40 x 3mm natural rubber strip, and using Stainless Steel wire to remake the factory staples to go into the existing holes. A bit fiddly, but should work and look factory.
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Nick, stripped the pinon out and tried the other one I had - no better. Then took the rack out and found the longest straight edge I could, result bent rack :( its doesn't look bent, but over its length is about 3mm out. I stripped the saloon one I had and the rack is a. exactly the same :) b. straight, also a bonus, and c. in really good condition. So put it together and bingo! no binding, no end float all good :) Its hard to believe that such a minor shunt could have done this to a rack. Now just got to get it back into the car.
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Just putting my Vitesse's steering rack back together. I had two Vitesse racks and a manual saloon (source of shims) rack for 'spares', but decided to stick with the rack and pinon that came out of the car as its less worn. I have fitted new end bush and done the end float on the pinon not a problem; but when it came to do the wear pad (the pad itself is new) the rack binds at its mid point. I wound the rack to full lock (to get max leverage / end float) and very slowly hand tightened the pad nut until the end float had just gone. Wound it back and it won't go pass the mid point. Now I know the car had a very minor bump at the front, it has a very small dent in the passenger side over rider and the chassis extension on this side is very slightly bent. So questions are; bent pinon? bent rack (seems straight on the bench)? deformed or otherwise damaged teeth (again nothing really obvious I can see)? Anyone experienced this before? Am I better off rebuilding with the more worn rack and pinon?
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The MGF seats are pretty good, I have had several people think that they are factory, and for the money hard to go past. On this post http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl/Blah.pl?m-1380649446/s-4/#num4 there are dimensions for the seat runners that I used.
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912 wrote:Mick Dolphin has them on his list so drop him an email <spares@mickdolphin.co.uk> Good luck! Got them!!! and a spare set to be sure. Thank you :)
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Yeh that's what I thought, oh well guess I won't be buying these then; http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=704757887
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Cheers :) will do.
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Question; Can TR6 front hubs be bolted onto a Saloon?
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Does any one know where I can get these from? The original part number is 108976.
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Bit left field but umm Nissan long nose diff? :) If you can get an early Datsun (R160) one with flanged output shafts your laughing. Use the matching Datsun 180B half shafts and Tri-Dat UJ's to the hubs. I used the R200 long nose, but the R160 would have been so much easier, and lighter. Just an idea :)
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I took a leaf out of Jon Wolfe's book and checked the shank length of the bolts I was about use on the front end rebuild. As you can see the Grade 5 bolt shanks supplied in the rebuild kit are a bit short and the thread is exposed to direct loading if there is too much movement. Down to the bolt shop for some longer Grade 8 bolts. Need to trim them to knock off the excess thread, then cold galv the exposed ends (shop didn't have 'black' bolts that I could trim and then get zinc coated), but I know that the bolts are fully up to the job - cheap insurance.
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Is anyone interested in a R160 diff conversion kit consisting of the mounting plates and machined rear diff housing? http://www.flickr.com/photos/66903760@N02/sets/72157627419811767/ I have some guys state side who are asking for such a kit, and am repricing a small batch this week.
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Mine (Mk1 1968) is located low level on the bulkhead under where the main wiring loom enters the engine bay next to the battery. Hope this helps?
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Have you re-centred the jets? Sounds like one needle is off centre and hence isn't letting the piston rise and fall smoothly. Might also want to check needles are both inserted into the piston the correct amount (shoulder flush to the base of the piston) and the same amount. If you take them out check the needles are also the same type and that they are not bent.
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I actually got round to fitting the seats to the car today, and detailed below is what I used and how I did it (hope this helps);
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I just used some 25x5 flat bar, after trimming off the MGF mounting mounts with an angle grinder (kept the runners). Piece of cake, I am going to fit another set to my blue car over this weekend and can post the measurements etc I use if that would help?
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Alec, the model number matches with correct item for the high compression engine I have; but I don't have a specific build sheet for this car. So it could have been changed over at some stage. I can't understand why two cars that were built only weeks apart would have two completely different advance curves, for what is suppose to be the same engine. Even the brake master cylinders are different, one was the large aluminum res, and the other small one with plastic extension to the res.