Encom
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Everything posted by Encom
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6931 wrote:I never thought about the fuel pump over supplying i thought that it must be the seals not sealing fully, would an over zealous fuel supply cause this then? i had assumed that the seals cannot cope with the pressure? it continues to leak however once the engine is off what pressure should the pump be supplying? The Fuelflow 15L supplies a steady 2 to 2.5Psi.
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Same. Ended up using a very low pressure pump Fuelflow 15L, spec's below; http://www.fuelflow.co.nz/FF_cms_03/eshop?page=shop.product_details&category_id=41&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=76
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Yes, I know what you mean, none of them are particularly great. The dark orange cells on the right indicate the best match at the RPM for the Lucas 22D6, so it was a case of picking the curve that had the most orange cells and came closest on the other cells. The car came with a Lucas 22D6 fitted, but my earlier had a Delco 204 (which went really well), and whose 1968 production date was only weeks earlier. Bearing in mind both cars are NZ assembled. I have excluded vac advance from it as this varies with throttle position ie: wide open throttle very little vacuum, but mostly likely mid range to max RPM, and hence cent advance. Fueling wise need to find that pesky carb leak that has developed, and then try again. I'll most likely end up fitting a bung to the exhaust and using a digital AF meter fine tune it, then punt for a 123 Tune. The standard 123 just isn't close enough, better off with a set of points.
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Okay, I think I've cracked. From the work shop manual and using Minty's page (cheers, very handy 🙂 ) I came up with the table below. From this curve 6 or 7 should be sweet - but (there always a but), having tried these settings out this afternoon, I have been getting 'pinking' in the mid range. After a bit of digging around, found the front carb wouldn't increase engine speed and drop back when the lift rod was used to lift the piston - it did a few days ago = air leak!! just got to find it now.
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Cheers, just to be clear the advance curves shown in the 123 instructions are total advance ie: static + advance from the selected curve?
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Yeh I plotted all the 123 curves and the factory curves for various 6 cylinder engines in MS exel, and there was no clear winner. So reverted to 'seat of the pants' tuning. I found in my green Vitesse that the Delco dizzy with points had way better performance than the 123 on all the curves I tired (without getting too carried away with advance at higher revs). I'm wondering if the 123 with the USB programmable port might be a better bet to match the factory curve.
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In NZ you can pick up a R160 for as little as $40NZD. There various LSD version you can get as well. The one I used cost from memory $80NZD with the flanged output shafts. I got the rear casting and mounting plates made up in Christchurch, if you PM me I will give you the details of the suppliers. http://www.flickr.com/photos/66903760@N02/6091850771/ Here are some photos of the conversion I did (along with R200 into a saloon). I found it pretty straight forward.
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I've done the Subaru / R160 conversion and it looks a lot lighter than the BMW one shown. But I would imagine that the BMW diff is easier to get in the UK / Europe than the R160?
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Looking to gather together peoples settings for the 123 Ignition distributors to help narrow down what is a good initial setting - so the more the merrier I have one fitted to my standard Mk1 Vitesse 2 Litre set to curve 0, running 98 Octane. Anyone else?
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Cheers Tony, will do :)
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Fancy shipping some to NZ?
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I've fitted front and rear Gaz adjustables, with height adjustment at the front and they seem to be working really well. Rear adjustment has been particually useful.
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You can put the R160 diff in from an early Datsun (simular to item 1 in the pic below from a Z) or Subaru without needing to cut anything (thats what I have been running in my green car), and they come is quiet a few ratios. I wouldn't worry about doing the whole suspension swap. You could look at rotoflex with CV's or big saloon K frame outriggers grafted onto the chassis with the alloy trailing arms; but its a lot of work with very little gain for normal road use. My green car runs OD gearbox and a GT6 3.27 and motorway traffic is no worries, relaxed even without using the OD.
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I have used the excellent Fuel Flow pumps (http://www.fuelflow.co.nz/FF_cms_03/), just because my old mechanical pump as a bit leaky and needed a rebuild (which is easy enough), but I thought why not; and it works great. So matter of preference, or just doing it for the sake of it, as the mechanical pumps are fine.
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It's been such a long time since I took the doors off my red car (about 10 years or so) I can't remember (or find any pic's) of which bolts / machine screws to use to re hang them, I have plenty to choose from. Conical seat bolts rings a bell. Can any one help please? (think)(think)(think)
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It's been such a long time since I took the doors off my red car (about 10 years or so) I can't remember (or find any pic's) of which bolts / machine screws to use to re hang them, I have plenty to choose from. Conical seat bolts rings a bell. Can any one help please? (think)(think)(think)
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Sweet, wee gem of information thank you I tried and gave up dealing with my local Subaru agent. I should have told them it was from my limited edition Vitesse STi lol
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Does any one have an opinion / experience of Moss front springs vs. the Rimmer's lowered and firmer front springs for a Vitesse? The Rimmer ones are very cost effective at present.
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Yep same size plate behind and a medium density foam tape on both to cushion against the grille. They are really quiet ridged, so looks like Lucas got it right - so they should mind you :)
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Yep same size plate behind and a medium density foam tape on both to cushion against the grille. They are really quiet ridged, so looks like Lucas got it right - so they should mind you :)
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Oh yes, I love my relays. For some strange reason I only use the old Lucas ones, not know why when they take up a heap of space. But I suppose the electrics then do look 'period' correct. Just don't look under the distributor cap :)
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Oh yes, I love my relays. For some strange reason I only use the old Lucas ones, not know why when they take up a heap of space. But I suppose the electrics then do look 'period' correct. Just don't look under the distributor cap :)
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1341 wrote:Afraid that drop links are yet another example of badly made repro parts. I purchased new ones to fit during my restoration but cleaned and refitted the old ones as I had the same problem. I personally think that we should start a new thread on this forum listing all of the substandard parts that are out there. I certainly have quite a long list, the worst that I had was a steering column joint that was dangerous after 6 months! I would rather pay a bit more for an original quality part. I second that, some are just plain rubbish.
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Well I tried out my Lucas type brackets and they work quiet well, I'm thinking I'll tidy them up a bit, get them powder coated and job done :) Even got my Lucas switch (one for driving lights, other for Lucas 494 reversing light), sweet to easy :)
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Well I tried out my Lucas type brackets and they work quiet well, I'm thinking I'll tidy them up a bit, get them powder coated and job done :) Even got my Lucas switch (one for driving lights, other for Lucas 494 reversing light), sweet to easy :)