Stu 1986
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Everything posted by Stu 1986
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Thanks for the tips so far, I'll see if I can find a NOS one then. S.
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Hello All, I've got the gearbox off my car for a repair to the syncro on 2nd gear. Whilst I've got access to it I have decided to change the clutch. I was just wondering what people's opinions were on the various ones out there. I see three popping up frequently. 1) Borg & Beck 2) Quinton Hazel 3) Veco The one currently fitted is a Borg & Beck unit with the word "Remanufacured" stamped on it. Thanks in Advance. S.
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New tyres and subsequent issues. Help please
Stu 1986 replied to Jessica Herald1961's topic in Running Gear
Have you checked the offset of the wheels? I bought a set of Cobra supersolts that had been on a GT6 and assumed they would go straight on my car. After all sorts of fun and games I ended up having the arches rolled which worked out quite well. See the thread I did on the subject, it might help?: http://www.club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1424453169/s-0/ -
Thanks for the tip off Chunky, I'll give them a try. Roger, I looked at Canley's site but couldn't work out which was which. I'll have a closer look when I have the carb & computer together.
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Well today I tidied up the bulkhead and fitted the new master cylinder, and begun tiding up the brake pipes. I had a few other jobs to do first so ran out of daylight with the front pipes left to do. It's looking good though, I'm pleased I've gone standard again. That Metro unit had a fault anyway it seems as it had leaked all it's fluid all over the carpets, which also meant I had to get handy with the cleaner and paint brush!
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I was going to do a thorough clean of the carb and replace the gaskets on it. The accelerator pump isn't leaking on this one, so if the other gaskets are the same maybe I'll get away with that. I could write a book about this Herald Dave, It isn't mine it belongs to my friend. It came to me in November to have the clutch hydraulics addressed, and it hasn't left! I've done nearly everything on it now other than respray and re trim it!
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I need to order some gaskets for the same type of carb, it's a 1964 1200 also. Did you find out what type of carb it is? I'll also have to take the manifolds off to clean them out as I suspect there is some filth in there causing issues.
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Good News, I had my arches rolled today and at last my wheels fit! Kris from arch werx came this morning and sorted it for me, and I no have zero rubbing. Now for the next things on the list.
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Nick_Jones wrote:The other option I'd considered was exactly was you have already done with the Rover 100 parts. What problems have you had with that? Any pics? It will involve you cutting a dirty big hole in your bulkhead for it to fit through as the pedal is connected directly to the bottom of the servo & cylinder. The metro brake pedal will need reshaping and adjusting which I had done at a blacksmith's. You will need to change your brake lines around to allow for dual circuit operation, and factor in it has ballast adjusters as part of the system which you will need to site also. You will need to add some sort of support to the top of the cylinder to stop it moving as you hit the pedal. It was a good idea in theory, but what it has actually created (at least in my case) is a messed up bulkhead, a messy appearance as there is a jumble of pipes on the bulkhead and many hours lost time trying to get it to work. Once I got it to work, the pedal travelled too far and the vacuum it took seemed to have a negative effect on the engine. So I'm going back to standard, but whereas the rear brakes would cross over at the rear axle this will happen on the bulkhead now, and I'll have to have new metal welded in to replace the hole for the servo. Here is one of the few photos I have of it. Sadly it's a bit shaky and out of focus but I took it on a camera phone back when the quality wasn't as good as today.
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Hi Bill, thanks for your response. To answer your question I have Vitesse Discs & Callipers which are 16 PB Imperial. They are brand new from Canleys. The rear drums are Vitesse MK2 ones also.
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Hello Chaps! I need a new Master Cylinder for the brakes on my Herald. As I fitted the Vitesse engine I fitted the Vitesse brakes, but then tried to be clever by fitting a servo assisted dual circuit braking system using the master cylinder from a Rover 100 which is a combined servo & cylinder unit. It looked well and worked to some degree but it hasn't worked as well as hoped and I am going to revert back to the standard Vitesse set up. Now I know 2 Litre cars had a bigger master than the others, so I've been looking about on eBay to see whats out there. I've seen a few places selling various things but which one would be best to go for? This guy promotes his master cylinders as being better than standard with all sorts of guarantees and insurances from Lloyd's of London: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MASTER-CYLINDER-Triumph-Vitesse-Clutch-Brake-UPRATED-/390265232799?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5add9edd9f This One has a plastic cylinder body and says it's 7 bore: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-GT6-Vitesse-2-0-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-ASSEMBLY-/221716516900?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item339f559024 This one also says it's 7 bore but has a metal body: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-VITESSE-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-7-BORE-/151220872204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item233577640c Price isn't really an issue here as I believe more and more these days "Buy Cheap, Buy Twice" which was something my Granddad used to say frequently. Also you can't really mess about when it comes to brakes. Any Advice is much appreciated. Stu. 8)
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Alex wrote:Have you posted a picture of your wheels .... I've not seen one ? My car isn't 100% finished yet Alex, so I'm not ready for the grand unveiling, but just for you here is a sneak peak of my wheels on the car.
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Hello all: OK firstly when I refer to stretch, I don't mean like the VW cars where they have the tyre walls at a 45 degree angle, I had more in mind just dropping a tyre size to the 165/60 tyre. Also, I'm not going to be driving this car of mine fast, nor will I be going round bends like Ari Vatanen. My daily car is very powerful and goes round bends like it's on rails, the Herald will never be able to go like that does. My car is best described as a show off, and it will seldom go out on the roads anyway. I don't even think I'll do 200 miles a year if I'm honest, she'll spend most of the time tucked away in the garage under the cover. When she does go out it will be for a leisurely drive or a little cruise around on a dry sunny morning or evening. The offset is wrong, I accept that, but when I think about it I can't just ditch these wheels. I paid £150 for them, then sent them off for some bespoke refurbishing which cost me £326 then I had to buy new centres which were £25, then the tyres at £192 and a set of new wheel nuts which were £30. So the total is £723!! That is a lot of money, which I admit did kind of snowball :-/ However if I tried to sell them I won't see that figure returned, and I don't like any other wheels out there if I'm honest. I'm not being ignorant of anything in case anyone thinks that, please forgive me if I come across so.
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Well as I've said earlier in this thread I've put a lot of money into these wheels and I want them on the car. I've got a guy coming in April who is going to roll all four arches. I'm also going to have the 175's taken off (and I will sell them) and do a trick the VW modifiers do called "stretched rubber". It's basically where a narrower and lower profile tyre is put on the rim. When they do it, it's pretty extreme but in my case it will be a marginal stretch. It's safe as I've known a "dubber" for a few years who has this on his Golf, very extreme stretch, and it's A ok. There are photos of the VW method on the guy's website. http://www.archwerx.co.uk/ When I first got the car she had skinny wire wheels fitted on spline adaptors. Look pretty yes, but I really didn't like the spline adaptor method of attaching them, or the amount of flex in a wire wheel.
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The tyres are brand new Firestone 175/70/R13 which are the same size as the old tyres that were on the rims previously. I bought these from a member who has a GT6 and had had them on that car for many years. I paid to have them restored last year, diamond cut to remove the corrosion and scuffs, then polished to a shine on the faces. I also had the insides of the wheels painted the same colour as the flash along the side of my car. They look the business on the car, and everyone says so. It is going to break my heart to not have these wheels on the car. If a different tyre combination mixed with arch rolling will solve my woes, then that would make my day.
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OK I had a look today and took a couple of snaps. I'm a but dubious about whether or not these wheels are going to fit, even if I roll the arches. Looking at the bonnet, which I didn't take a snap of regrettably, they've been rubbing there too. :( What do you guys think? It is going to break my heart if I have to sell these on. :'( (And I'm sorry if the pictures are too big for the post!! I'm not too good at resizing. :B )
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I'm not going to go through the flaring route, I just want those few mm's off the arch lip so my wheels can function correctly. I'm going to have a look at them this week to see what my options are, probably be Wednesday. It literally is mm's which is so annoying. They don't catch the bonnet unless the wheel is on full lock, which I won't be doing too often anyway. The bonnet is a totally restored item with brand new wings fitted, so it would be a case of rolling the lip flush with that.
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I never knew of the rolling techniques, I've had a look and there are companies out there that'll do the rears for £80 the pair. If be happy to pay that, because if I tried to roll them it will go wrong, the car will be ruined and I'll be heartbroken. What I need to do next is have a good inspection of the rear arches and check they're in suitable enough condition for rolling.
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Hello Chaps, As some of you may know I've been having issues with the rear tyres rubbing on my arches, and it looks like only way to get them some clearance is to remove some of the lip from the rear arches. I just wondered if anyone has done this, and if so any advice or technique tips would be appreciated. I've been told flap wheels on an angle grinder is better to use than a grinding disc, has anyone else found this? I'm only going to get one shot at this, and I'll have to be Uber careful as one slip of the grinder and that's my Gucci paint job ruined. How much would be reasonable to grind back? Someone said a lowering block might be an alternative option, but seeing as the car is already fairly low dropping the rear might ruin the nice stance the wheels I've fitted creates (5.5J Cobra Super Slots). Also my drive way consists of two slopes before I reach the road, and I'd be apprehensive of catching anything if the car was lower again. Thanks Stu. 8)
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I understand where you're coming from, but this is a standard 1200 Herald that spends it's time bumbling around the city where speeds seldom reach more than 30 mph. I have driven this car in it's current state and find the brakes work fairly well in rush hour traffic. Admittedly I do tend to use the gearbox to assist in slowing down, so that might be a factor. Besides the owner wants the drums to stay also and ultimately its up to her.
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Thanks for the replies chaps, I've actually managed to track down a set of wheel cylinders for the front, so I'll replace all 4 of them to rule that out. Further good news is that the car's owner has a few sets of spare front shoes so if need be I'll replace them (and keep the old ones for re lining). Converting the car to discs isn't something we'd want to do as it's a very original car, and the drums are part of the charm. Thanks Again, Stu.
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Thanks for the replies chaps, I've actually managed to track down a set of wheel cylinders for the front, so I'll replace all 4 of them to rule that out. Further good news is that the car's owner has a few sets of spare front shoes so if need be I'll replace them (and keep the old ones for re lining). Converting the car to discs isn't something we'd want to do as it's a very original car, and the drums are part of the charm. Thanks Again, Stu.
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Hello Chaps, Little Doris, the 1200 Herald I'm working on, went for an MOT test today. Sadly she failed on a few minor issues, one of which was: Front Brakes Imbalanced across axle (45%) She also failed on Handbrake leaver having no reserve travel. I was wondering if anyone knows the procedure for adjusting the brakes on the front drums? The old Autopress manual I have doesn't cover it and I've only worked with the rear drums. Are they the same? Ta, S.
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8508 wrote:Cheers for that Simon. Do 13/60 choke cables only come with the 'T' piece fitting and can it be removed? Only I would rather have the herald type knob on it. Andy It already has a herald knob fitted, a Herald 13/60 knob!! But like mentioned above, there should be a little tab on both the older type & 13/60 knobs. It might be worth checking if Vitesse 1600 knobs have longer cables.
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OK I think I may have made an interesting discovery. I think the current slave cylinder fitted to the car is the wrong one. Please look at the photos below and tell me what you think. The car is a 1966 Herald 1200 with it's original engine and box.